The resurrection of old number 29

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heaterman

Minister of Fire
Oct 16, 2007
3,374
Falmouth, Michigan
We just got done with a complete refurb and overhaul of a very old Garn. Serial number WHI-000029 to be exact. The current owner discovered two of them in an abandoned greenhouse (courtesy of Craigs List) and neither one was in operating condition. Both units sat in the greenhouse for several years according to local people that were familiar with the situation and they had water in them for at least a couple years before developing leaks. Obviously, they both froze solid over the winter at least once.
Number 29 had just a few pinholes in the bottom and the new owner elected to have a "patch plate" welded in place over top the existing metal. (Wouldn't be my first choice but he's payin the bill so......)
Along with a new bottom, we had Dectra/Garn custom make a new blower mounting plate because the old one was designed for a cradle mount motor rather than the C-face style found on new Garns. We put a new blower wheel, mounting plate and motor on it. The blower wheel appeared to be the same as the old one which had obviously come undone during operation. It was twisted and disintegrated beyond recognition. When this happens in a Garn it's usually because there was no water in it when was fired and flue temps went over 900-1000* melting the wheel. It's designed that way.
Along with those parts we got him a new control and lid which accepts the low water level safety. The old lid design does not accept the LWCO stem and it's flat instead of convex like the new lids are. New gaskets were installed everywhere they were needed. And that's about it. There really is not much more to a Garn than that.
Number 29 is going on another farmstead just down the road from the main farm where we installed a WHS-2000 over this past winter. It runs all the heat on the farm for space and hot water (tons) needs. I'll try to put up pictures of that on a different thread.
 

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Congrats on getting that unit in shape to be used again Steve.
I find few things as satisfying as getting something someone else has given up on be it a boiler (in your case) or a structure (in my case) fixed & turned over to the owners.
Makes one look forward to the next (seemingly impossible) challenge.
Here's hoping the install goes well.
BTW are you drilling a new hole in the Garn for a sensor in that photo?
 
Frozen Canuck said:
Congrats on getting that unit in shape to be used again Steve.
I find few things as satisfying as getting something someone else has given up on be it a boiler (in your case) or a structure (in my case) fixed & turned over to the owners.
Makes one look forward to the next (seemingly impossible) challenge.
Here's hoping the install goes well.
BTW are you drilling a new hole in the Garn for a sensor in that photo?

My son was drilling out a broken off bolt that holds the inner door plate in place. In the picture posted here you can see what I'm talking about. The old version Garns like that one had a large primary air nozzle that directed combustion air directly on the fire. Air entered through collar around the door then through the holes in the perimeter of the door and finally was split between the primary nozzle and the secondary "air chute" for lack of a better term which was in the top of the fire box just inside the door.
One would be able to see the secondary air inlet inside the firebox if he laid on his back and poked his head inside the loading door looking straight up.

The concept of being able to adjust the primary/secondary air balance throughout the course of a burn was an example of an excellent idea that in reality never got used. People tended to just load and walk away rather than tweak the air mix as the burn progressed. There was a damper that used to be in place inside the little square box above the door which adjusted the pri/sec air ratio. More secondary at the start of the burn and more primary at the back end of the cycle.


I know that Tom Caldwell has done a great deal of experimenting with his Garn and last I knew had modified it to accept motorized dampers that were driven off an O2 sensor as well as firebox pressure. He'll have some hard data on it this winter but truthfully, if he gets it much more efficient than what the factory test results for a standard unit are coming back, he's going to have actual flue gas condensation taking place and creating a mess.

Regarding fixing someone else's mess.........I hope to have pictures up here the end of the week of a job we have to do sawzall surgery on downstate. Here's a clue...........the original installing contractor used yellow PE gas line for the in slab tubing. .........draw your own conclusions from there........ :0
 

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Funny you should mention fixing someone else's mess....that's exactly what I am doing & have been for about the last month. Retired professional that liked to DIY absolutely everything in the house.

So far every wall I have opened has been full of rodent droppings & rot....you can guess from that what his thoughts on properly sealing any structure are....disappointing to say the least.

Anyhow after all this time fixing structural things that were wrong I can finally get to the addition he hired me to build in the first place, so the 2 of them can have a nice sunroom with attached deck, out to the new hot tub, with a new entry way to the home & a 12' x 8' walk in closet for her.

So we excavate, pour footings, lay 2" ridgid foam & are ready to tube the slab, I notice that has predrilled holes in the existing floor joists so we can run tubing into the boiler room & I say thank you very much, about 5 min later one of the boys plugs in too much & trips the breaker.

I head into reset it, go to the boiler room where the panel is & there in front of me is ????????? a nat gas boiler with every run & I do mean every run done with poly B tubing! I kid you not, 1" poly B to boot. On top of that their are no isolation valves at all not a single one. Zero zone valves. Zero mixing valves. Zero low temp protection for boiler. So every zone runs at boiler temp (way too hot). There is a valve to shut off water into the boiler, a valve to shut off water out of the boiler (all of it, all zones on one valve) a switch to shut off electrical power to the boiler, a switch to shut off the circ pump that is wired to run 24/7/365 & that is it. Oh BTW I forgot to mention everything leaked, boiler & exp tank very rusty for 15 yrs, floor was soaked & had been for some time as the concrete was spawling big time, looked more like a pad I would pour at a cattle watering bowl than a finished slab.

I could feel my mouth hanging open so I forced myself to close it & turned to the elec panel.....well guess what I see there, 24 breaker panel with 100 amp main, quick glance & count has me at 45 - 50 wires coming into that panel (way overloaded) double & triple tapped...has to be. I reset the breaker & head back out to work, later in the day (after I have cooled down) I mention to him that after we are done I have a few suggestions on how he can improve his electrical & mechanical in the building. He says oh good we have been tripping breakers everyday for quite a while & I can't figure out why, & last year I had 3 zones in the floor of the home that stopped heating & I have not figured out why either. Say's he just put a clamp on tubes of the zones that were not working (in case they were leaking) & put elec space heaters in the rooms. OMG I think to myself if I get out of here before the snow flies it will be a miracle. Either that or I have finally met my match.
 
The first Garn I saw was one just like this. It was installed in august of 1985. You're right heaterman, it was a good idea but no one stayed around or came back to adjust air. One of the best benefits of the garn. Set it and forget it.
 
Jim K in PA said:
Great to save an old beast like #29. What is the capacity of that one? Looks like it is in between a 1500 and a 2000.

Far as I know the capacity of those old beasties was around 1350.
 
Sawyer said:
If it was frozen the capacity should increase. :)

LOL

It was for a fact frozen solid at least one winter and possibly two from what the current owner was able to glean from the person he got them from. I know of at least one other Garn that was frozen solid up in Alaska. After being pulled inside a heated building and allowed to thaw, it suffered no ill effects.
There is a reason that our Navy's submarines are round. It resists crushing and distortion much better than a flat or square surface.
 
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