Lighting options for garage?

I would use high output 8' fluorescent fixtures.

burnham said:

I would use high output 8' fluorescent fixtures.

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+1

The CFL's in HiHats would give almost no light, and take a while to "warm-up"

When I redid the lighting in my shop, I went with VHO (Very High Output) 8' fixtures. The ballast states a min. starting temp of -20F (if it gets that cold in the shop, the 30's gonna be scrap metal!!) They where expensive, even bought second hand, but no more flickering, and get up to full "brightness" in less than 20 or so seconds in the dead of winter.

You have to look at the ballast to see what the lowest recommended start temperature is, and if you think that you would be in its range.

EDIT - B.T.W. the front shop is 90 x 20, the "back" shop is 30x30, and a 24x20 garage separated with a block wall and fire door. The front shop area has 6 fixtures, and the garage has one + the 2-bulb opener. They are 2-tube, apertured at 20 % uplighting on 2 of them, and 0% on the others. The back shop has 9 High Output (H.O) fixtures; 2-tube, non-apertured (0% uplighting) I got a heck of a deal on a case of NOS ballasts for the back shop, and they where 0def F ballasts. The fixtures where there from the previous owner, but 5 didn't work, and they where 40 deg. ballasts.

ALL the tubes are "T-12" old school. The newer T-8 and T-6 should save you money as far as replacement costs.

I put lighting in my basement a few years ago, just got a whole bunch of the florescent fixtures (regular size) from Homedepot. I didnt get the magnetic balast ones, but the ones with the electronic ballasts. Those work down to -40F (I think, very cold), dont hum or buzz, and loght up right away. They also dont get hot so are probably safer too.

I would suggest, no matter what you do, dont get the old fashioned magnetic ballast systems. Efficiency is pretty important since they will last you a long time, and electricity isnt cheap.


Rick

maverick06 said:

I put lighting in my basement a few years ago, just got a whole bunch of the florescent fixtures (regular size) from Homedepot. I didnt get the magnetic balast ones, but the ones with the electronic ballasts. Those work down to -40F (I think, very cold), dont hum or buzz, and loght up right away. They also dont get hot so are probably safer too.

I would suggest, no matter what you do, dont get the old fashioned magnetic ballast systems. Efficiency is pretty important since they will last you a long time, and electricity isnt cheap.

Rick

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+1
I installed 8" long fluorescent fixtures like Rick describes and they work great even at low temps. Each fixture has 4 four ft. T-8 bulbs. T-8s are more efficient than T-12s by nature. They were about $30 per fixture without bulbs.

The only issue I've had with them is some interference with my digital TV. I've read that industrial fixtures are more likely to cause RF issues than are the residential fixtures.

My 2¢:

The electronic ballasts are quieter, and do work better in the cold, but they typically do not last as many hours as the old magnetic ballasts. Still, they are worth using, especially if you can change a bad ballast yourself.

T8s are probably going to be your best bang for buck. With an 8' ceiling you might be better off using a reflector to bounce the light off the ceiling (if you have a nice white ceiling) to cut down on the glare. T5HO fixtures are great but quite a bit more expensive and this isn't a 24hr warehouse. A lot of warehouses are removing their HPS and Metal Halide lights and relamping with thee T5HOs because the ballasts play nice with motion sensors which allow you to dramatically reduce the wasted wattage. They give a nice light too.

T8s with an open canopy would be my choice. Maybe some beer signs to spruce it up!

I would start with the height of the ceiling. I am not a fan of recessed cans anymore, unless there's heated/conditioned space above. Maybe for spot lighting but I wouldn't do it in a garage if there was any question about a fire rating for the ceiling.

I'd try to keep all the tubes the same length so I only had one open box of bulbs. CFL are pretty darn good for what they are. Maybe put some on the walls and build a screen so the light fills the space. I dunno. What kind of a shop are we talking about?

wahoowad said:

Thanks guys. I'm still procrastinating but might buy something today.

Any opinions on the 8' lights that use 4 48" bulbs as compared to the regular 8' bulbs? I see my store carries that.

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Just check your "MOT" - Minimum Operating Temperature; on the ballasts.

If the ambient "normal" temperature in the shop is lower than the ballast; they WILL flicker/not ignite.

So for, the '30 kept it above MOT (and so has mother nature ;-) ) And the used/abused/unknown ballasts have held up fine. Going with the 4-footers may be cheaper in the long run, but I'm gonna keep what I've got....

instead of 8 foot bulbs just get two 4 foot channel strip fixtures for t8 bulbs. the 4 foot bulbs are cheaper to buy than the 8 foot. so when it comes time to replace, it not a lot of money. soon enough, already starting to get hard to find the old T12 fixtures. all changing to T8 and soon T5. T8 are 32 watt bulbs vs the old T12 34 and 40 watt bulbs. the T8 32 watt is brighter than the old T12 40 watt. if you ever get to see the T5 bulb their even brighter. fluorescent fixtures have always been known to throw radio and tv signals so if your a am radio listener it won't matter which fluorescent you buy. right now in my suppliy house it's cheaper to replace a T8 ballast than a T12. and as far as lighting in cold weather the T8 will light no problem where as the old T12 you had to buy a zero degree ballast and those are almost double the cost of a reg T8 ballast.

frank