A friend said he knows someone who when he buys a new chain the first thing he does is grind the rakers off. I know rakers are supposed to prevent kick-back. Just wondering if any of you remove the rakers rather than grind them a little at a time?
smokinjay said:If you take the raker off its not going to cut....I call B.S.! lol
Jags said:smokinjay said:If you take the raker off its not going to cut....I call B.S.! lol
Believe it or not, I have a big brute of a friend that I can not talk out of doing this. He does it to every chain he has. The machine cuts, but its like holding on to a rock screen in a gravel pit. Uhuhuhuhuhuhuhuh
lol I have cut oak with a chain that was perfect for large silver maples. Just about shook me apart, and felt like tennis elbow for another week. (rakers where maybe .05 low)
smokinjay said:Just about shook me apart, and felt like tennis elbow for another week. (rakers where maybe .05 low)
CTYank said:First, "raker" is a misnomer. On a crosscut saw you have cutters that act like scribing knives and RAKERS that act like chisels to actually remove the wood between the scribed lines. The cutting edge is the leading edge, typically with mirror-image for other direction.
On a chipper/chisel saw chain, you have DEPTH GAUGES leading cutters, to determine depth of cut. The depth gauges cut nothing, and the business end is the trailing edge. Read what's been published, like from experts at Pioneer, Oregon, etc., etc.
Anyone suggesting removing depth gauges needs professional help. Or a protective order.
Recently received a new chain with a refurb Husqvarna 455r. Depth gauges have a folded-over section right in front of the cutter, like a puppy's ear. Anyone have an idea why they're so, and if they're effective. No problems noted here.
CTYank said:Recently received a new chain with a refurb Husqvarna 455r. Depth gauges have a folded-over section right in front of the cutter, like a puppy's ear. Anyone have an idea why they're so, and if they're effective. No problems noted here.
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