Dumb generator question - plugging to house?

It can be done, but its the quickest and dirtiest way to go. You will have a potentially "hot" plug from your generator and if you forget to throw the main breaker you run the risk of back-feeding the grid which will either burn out your generator or endanger the lineman working on the pole.
A safer way to go is to get a mechanical interlock for your panel that will not allow the generator breaker to be engaged until the main breaker has been turned off.

http://www.interlockkit.com/

You then add a 30 amp breaker to your panel and wire a generator power inlet box. After that you just buy or make a short extension cord with the matching plug. Make sure to use the appropriate size cable. This will allow you to power the whole house, but you will have to pick and choose which circuit you turn on. A 3500 watt generator will not power much.

I ran a 30 foot line from the panel and installed the inlet box in the garage. There wasn't an interlock made for my panel so I fabricated one myself. You have to turn off the main, slide a plate up and then turn the generator breaker to on. It is physically impossible to turn on the generator breaker while the main breaker is still on.

I ran a 7550 watt generator during the Irene outage for 6 days, and it powered everything I had nicely.

But a 3500 watt generator is plenty to power a water pump and perhaps a microwave. Since you have a wood stove, you wouldn't need any other heat source. It should work fine if you follow Greg's advice.

Andrew

I wrote up a long response, but it made me sound like an ass.
Lol.

Yes, they sell things at Home depot/Lowe's for this.
240v/30 amp receptacle with cover and all.
Just make sure like it was said, turn off your main power before turning on the generator breaker... and opposite when you're done.
Downside is you don't know when power is restored unless you watch your neighbors lights (and they're not doing the same as you)
1.5kW generators can run microwaves with room to spare, so a 3.5kW should be fine.
microwaves are generally 900-1.2kW... If you use convection bake on a microwave (if you have a fancy micro) they can use upwards of 1800watts. But for general microwaving 1200 watts is typically the most.

Forget to turn off that main breaker just one time and you could zap a lineman!

If it were me, I'd install a small transfer switch next to the main panel.

I got an interlock kit from SquareD; about 100 bucks, as I recall.
You do have to run a line to an outdoor power inlet box.

I bought a little gizmo called the PowerBack that warbles when the power comes back on:
http://www.amazon.com/Reliance-Cont...EORA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1317212044&sr=8-1

When I was just searching for the links, I read the reviews.
I do tend to agree that it's a little hard to hear if the basement door is closed.
One guy got around that by using a cheap baby monitor, but it's good enough for me.

If you or someone in your house does not forget to open the main, some future homeowner may. The result could be death for a lineman, which will be on you. Do it to code. You will sleep better.

I don't know about code, but think I've seen boxes that plug in near the panel.
Downside is you have to leave a window open and put a towel in the gap to block the cold air, mosquitos, etc.
Then you have a cable running in the house you could trip on.
Plus, it'd be heavy.
Plus, the cable might be cheaper if it doesn't have to be moved, coiled, etc.

maple1 said:

.... is it a code requirement that the generator plug in box be outside the house? Can it be in the basement?

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After the 2008 ice storm, I said no more of that and installed a transfer switch/sub-panel, and a standard outdoor 4 prong, 30A genset receptacle. I used a very nice Reliance unit, and recall that they had lots of different choices, in addition to the one I selected. One of those options was where the receptacle was incorporated right into the sub-panel (transfer switch). And I would expect other makers to offer a similar feature as well. Doing it that way, you wouldn't need a separate box at all. And on one of your later comments - you could run the wire from the panel area around a corner and out to another side of the house - might need more than #10 wire though if it's a long run. And (from an earlier post), you mentioned having lots of circuits. If you do a sub-panel/transfer switch, that may result in less availability than you would like, because each circuit needs to be moved (or re-routed) to the transfer box. In my case, I physically moved 10 circuits to the transfer box, and that provides more than enough capability, but in your case 10 might be insufficient. You might want to price out the option of a switch that hooks into the meter or main panel - more $$ but you might need to do it that way. And finally: +1 to everyone who said not to use the dryer approach - can you guarantee you will ALWAYS remember to shut the main off?

maple1 said:

... is it a code requirement that the generator plug in box be outside the house? Can it be in the basement?

Click to expand...

I agree that it's probably cheaper to hard wire the receptacle near the generator and then fabricate a short cord to connect the genset. Why do you want the receptacle in the basement?

maple1 said:

... As mentioned this would only be a very temporary very infrequent situation ...

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Seeing as how you are putting some thought into this, I would make it as safe, reliable, and convienient as possible. Backfeeding through a dryer receptacle is, IMO, an emergency tactic.