Need Advice on Chainsaw Bar

I don't know much about Husqys. What is the chain you are using? that should help you make the right choice. With the amount of cutting you are doing, then I'd say get whatever bar fits your budget. there's probably a cheap Carlton that is 16 inches that fits your saw.

The bar you have should be stamped with a bunch of number that are relevant to your saw. You need to match the current pitch of your chains (probably .325) and will probably stick with the same gauge (probably .050). The third number is labeled DL, which stands for Drive Links...its how many links are in the chain. The pitch and bar length determine how many DLs you need in a loop to make it around the bar.

What size bar are you considering? If you just want another 16" bar, find one that fits Husqvarnas and Poulans thats 16" and has all the numbers that match yours. You can also find these bars locally just about everywhere, maybe for less than the combined purchase./shipping prices from Bailey's. Lowes, Home Depot, Wal Mart, Sears, Tractor Supply, local hardware store will all probably have everything you need.

Out of curiosity, why do you thnk its time for a new bar? Are you having trouble or just think its time for no other reason than its been 6 years?

Gunks said:

mayhem said:

Out of curiosity, why do you thnk its time for a new bar? Are you having trouble or just think its time for no other reason than its been 6 years?

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I just think it's time after 6 years. Will replace with another 16". I want to find out the difference between a $10 bar as opposed to a $60 bar.

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50 bucks lol. Stihl es bars are the way to go and a 16 inch should be in the 30.00 range. :lol:

Some thoughts here...

I'm pretty sure a Stihl ES bar (the wide nose version right? ;-) ) ain't gonna fit a Husky 136. :lol:

Most 136's had 3/8 (low-profile or picco) .050 chain on them.

You need a 16" bar that has a roller sprocket tip and the proper mounting holes/slots to fit your saw. After that, price would win IMO.
Manufacturers may offer things like heat-treated rails and removable/replaceable sprockets that add to the price.

If your bar isn't showing signs of wear then why replace it?

You should be able to pick up a bar locally anywhere Husqvarna, Poulan, or Oregon products are sold.

MasterMech said:

Some thoughts here...

I'm pretty sure a Stihl ES bar (the wide nose version right? ;-) ) ain't gonna fit a Husky 136. :lol:

Most 136's had 3/8 (low-profile or picco) .050 chain on them.

You need a 16" bar that has a roller sprocket tip and the proper mounting holes/slots to fit your saw. After that, price would win IMO.
Manufacturers may offer things like heat-treated rails and removable/replaceable sprockets that add to the price.

If your bar isn't showing signs of wear then why replace it?

You should be able to pick up a bar locally anywhere Husqvarna, Poulan, or Oregon products are sold.

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Thats a shame......I know there are guys running them in the milling fourm.

Yeah, almost every big box store has some Oregon bars and should have one that fits. Once you get into the 20"+ range it's much harder to find one.

What on earth are we milling with a 36 cc saw?

MasterMech said:

What on earth are we milling with a 36 cc saw?

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You thinking to much...lol If you can run one on a milling saw just figured they made them for husky thats all.....Oh how about a 30cc saw :lol:

That picture makes me laugh every time!

MasterMech said:

That picture makes me laugh every time!

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Me too! :lol: Work really well...

Hi All. Just wanted to revive this topic. I've had my 021 since Christ was Corporal, so its been around for a while. This one still cuts fine. I've had to file the edges a couple of times after abusing it a little too much. What does everyone use as a gage to determine that it's time to retire a bar? Or should I just keep using it until I accidentally drive over it with my truck or bend it in a tree?

To add a bit more to the "replace the bar" discussion:
I learned (the hard way) the drive sprocket (or rim) needs replaced way before the bar. Mine (spur type) went bad, & ended up needing a new bar & ruining a new chain.
Went to the rim type, now when the chain is worn out, I replace the rim too. ( a dab of grease on the roller bearing is prudent maintenance too)
If you need to replace the bar, you probably need a new sprocket too.
Picture (2 types) & Ref link:
http://www.oregonchain.com/pro/products/sprockets/pro_main_sprockets.htm

bogydave said:

To add a bit more to the "replace the bar" discussion:
I learned (the hard way) the drive sprocket (or rim) needs replaced way before the bar. Mine (spur type) went bad, & ended up needing a new bar & ruining a new chain.
Went to the rim type, now when the chain is worn out, I replace the rim too. ( a dab of grease on the roller bearing is prudent maintenance too)
If you need to replace the bar, you probably need a new sprocket too.
Picture (2 types) & Ref link:
http://www.oregonchain.com/pro/products/sprockets/pro_main_sprockets.htm

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Plus you get more RPM's with the rim sprocket,whether its 7,8 or 10 pin over the old spur type.

Plus you get more RPM’s with the rim sprocket,whether its 7,8 or 10 pin over the old spur type.

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The only saw I ever ran with a 10 pin was a very hot 880. Most saws are no faster with an 8 than they are with they standard 7.

StuckInTheMuck said:

Hi All. Just wanted to revive this topic. I've had my 021 since Christ was Corporal, so its been around for a while. This one still cuts fine. I've had to file the edges a couple of times after abusing it a little too much. What does everyone use as a gage to determine that it's time to retire a bar? Or should I just keep using it until I accidentally drive over it with my truck or bend it in a tree?

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If there is damage/wear that cannot be corrected with a light dressing or the shape of the bar near the nose sprocket varies from it's original contour. If the bar is worn into a butterknife shape then it's scrap IMO as well. Yours looks fine as far as I can see in the pics.

A big +1 on upgrading to rim sprockets at the first oportunity.

MasterMech said:

If there is damage/wear that cannot be corrected with a light dressing or the shape of the bar near the nose sprocket varies from it's original contour. If the bar is worn into a butterknife shape then it's scrap IMO as well. Yours looks fine as far as I can see in the pics.

A big +1 on upgrading to rim sprockets at the first oportunity.

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Thanks MasterMech...

It looks ok to me. As long as the edges are straight and the groove's deeper than the chain tooth is long it should be usable. On my old homelite I've straightened the edges using a disk sander when they start to get a little worn.

Gunks said:

I have a 6-year old Husqvarna 136 with a 16" bar. It is the same bar that came with the saw. I figure may be it's time to get a new bar. I went to Bailey's and am all confused with the choices. Different types with prices range from $10 to $60. I cut about 3 cords a year of mostly maple, oak, and ash. I would appreciate any advice on what bar to get.

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This can be accomplished in 5 easy steps:

1) Find a Husqy dealer

2) Bring your saw in and set it on the counter

3) Ask the dealer which bar he recommends

4) Buy THAT bar

5) Assuming your oiler is working properly your bar is certainly not worn out after cutting 18 cord so save your money

The McCullock in my signature was originally bought by my Dad in the late '70's. It still has the original bar on it. I've used/cobbed it from Dad since the mid '80's exclusively because of Dads health issues..........he physically can no longer handle that large of a saw. Anyhow, I've put probably 4 new chains on over the years and the place where I buy them always says that the bar is fine. I sharpen the teeth on the chains until they're about 3/4 gone and replace the chain. I do have a couple decent (not new) chains in reserve though.

Knock on wood.............the bar keeps going!!