Secondary Combustion Chamber baffle damage - repair or replace?

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Hi All,

My fireplace is only 5 years old and one part looks ready for repair or replacement. I think it is a "baffle" plate hanging just below the secondary combustion chamber. I suspect it is designed to prevent wood being loaded up to the secondary combustion chamber sa as to have some actual combustion space in the primary chamber. Or, it could just be a way of protecting some centre holes in the secondary combustion chamber being blocked. Heck it might even be a sacrificial anode type of plate - I really don't know what it does!

Here are some pics:

appreticegm_jindara_fireplace_baffle_damage1.jpg


appreticegm_jindara_fireplace_baffle_damage2.jpg


As you can see, it appears the plate or strip of steel is attached via 4 attachment points (presume welded?) and has separated on 3 of them, and partly separated on the 4th as well. My question is about fixing it, and if it's worth fixing - which of course depends on the function of the plate in the first place.

The thickness of the plate is down to about a quarter of the original thickness, is this "normal" wear for 5 winters? Can I get a neighbour or local welder to weld a new plate across with some new attachment points? (I can't weld - have tried to learn and failed, just one more thing I suck at) If so, what sort of grade of steel should I purchase? Can I get some scrap steel for this? Should I buy a whole new secondary combustion chamber (if for example the thing was originally cast - maybe welds don't last in fireplaces very long?)?

All suggestions and explanations welcome.

FWIW it's a Jindara Duo and I'm Down Under about 10 minutes from the coast very with mild salt air.
 
The secondary holes seem quite large so maybe it's a defector plate to turbulate the secondary airflow? If so, it's under a blow torch of heat.
 
BeGreeen,

It's definitely the hottest part of the primary combustion chamber - I've seen it glowing orange a few times. Does that mean the steel burns faster than expected? Does that mean I can't weld in that location?

Those holes are "secondary" entry points to the secondary combustion chamber, the significant majority of airflow goes up around the edge, then through the chamber and up the flu.

Because it gets so hot, I was wondering if it was a way of pre-heating air that does go via those central holes into the secondary chamber.

Any suggestions for fixing?
 
Have you contacted the company for support / suggestions yet w/ those pictures? I grew up with fishers which generally have a lifespan greater than my own. However, I have realized the savings / efficiency / awesomeness that new stoves have to offer but realize that sometimes comes at the price of replacement parts. Yours can't be the first to fail like this in 5 years. And.... even if it is, they should have parts for you if this company is worth their salt.

pen
 
Agreed, the place to start is with your dealer. 5 years is not a long time for a stove or fireplace. It looks like the current Jindara warranty is 10 years, so this is worth checking up on.
 
Although the design is different than what is on my stove, I think the purpose may be the same. 2ndary air is admitted through the holes, 2ndary combustion then occurs on and around the baffle plate, which gets super hot. My guess is that if you can find a way to replace it, or something close, with a steel bar, it will work fine, but after a few years the replacement bar also will burn out. The baffle plate likely keeps the super hot burning gases away from the top of the stove, which probably also would burn out over time if there was no baffle plate. I've replaced a similar bar on my stove 3 times in the 21 years of use of the stove. Mine simply attaches with screws under the channel that admits 2ndary air.

If you decide to put in your own bar, be aware that steel quality varies considerably, as I have found that some of the replacement bars last 5 years or longer, others burn out in 2-3 years. The idea of the bar seems to be good, but in the final analysis it is a cheap design element that the mfr knows will fail and unless the design includes an easy and inexpensive replacement, it is a design defect, IMO.
 
The mfg. may have chosen this route due to the double doors. Would a stainless steel baffle bar and anchors last a bit longer?
 
Maybe stainless steel would last longer in there, but it would be a lot more expensive wouldn't it? Can you weld S/S to normal steel or would you have to anchor them another way? Would S/S contacting normal steel lead to galvanic corrosion? (I think that's what you call 2 different metals causing faster corrosion isn't it?)

I've sent Jindara an email with the pics but they haven't been good in responding before, hence my calling in here for some expert advice . . .
 
The baffle plate holds the heat and gasses in the stove so the pre heated air from the secondary air tubes can help burn the gasses held under the baffle plate. I would first contact the dealer you bought it from and if they don't help you, contact the company. If they haven't returned your email I would call them. Contact information is here-

http://www.gason.com.au/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=392&Itemid=55
 
Apprentice_GM said:
Maybe stainless steel would last longer in there, but it would be a lot more expensive wouldn't it? Can you weld S/S to normal steel or would you have to anchor them another way? Would S/S contacting normal steel lead to galvanic corrosion? (I think that's what you call 2 different metals causing faster corrosion isn't it?)

I've sent Jindara an email with the pics but they haven't been good in responding before, hence my calling in here for some expert advice . . .

A chunk of 1/4" stainless that big might not cost much. I have seen scraps bigger at some boat yards. It would be fine contacting regular steel. They are close on the galvanic scale and would not corrode. Stainless can be welded or it can be through bolted with spacers. I would used stainless bolts in that case.
 
Well I got a reply from the manufacturer, Jindara - the plate is a baffle designed to tubulate the air entering the secondary combustion chamber. I would also suspect as others have stated that it would do a good job pre-heating this air as well, as it gets very hot, orange glowing sometimes.

The replacement part is $195 in Aussie dollars, so a bit over $200 in US dollars. That's a bit rich in my opinion so I might find / buy some scrap metal of similar size and bolt it through after angle grinding away the remaining plate connections.

I've heard old car sprung suspension is a good cheap source of such scrap metal, dunno if I can obtain any stainless steel from around here (cheap enough). Would the bolts have to be a high grade or something to last a few years or standard bolts from the local hardware shop shelf be OK do you think?

Any advice on that idea?
 
When I built a baffle for my old fisher stove I just used standard bolts (grade 5 I believe) and they held up fine for 1 year. I didn't use it longer than that to know how much more I could get out of them.

pen
 
The baffle in my Hearthstone Equinox is made out of a very light ceramic board. I wonder if that would work. Costs about $100. You could cut it to your needs and retrofit it. I just don't know if your stove design requires the baffle to get hot for secondary burn. It would probably last forever. I have to replace mine because the it got damaged somehow by the previous owner.
 
I ended up getting a mate to weld it back together for me, should get a few more years yet out of it before putting a new baffle in. Wish I could weld, gonna learn one day, such a useful skill.

Thanks for the feedback and suggestions everyone :)
 
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