markign logs

I have a jig I put on the bar that's (now) 17". I found for my stove 17" to be the best for the N/S loading.
Old video I made here:
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/51317/

Now I put it on my small old craftsman 14" saw, walk down the log marking it, then use the 20" saw to cut the rounds to 17".
A little extra time but I'm typically not in a hurry when cutting & like all the splits to fit good in the stove.
Just an old piece of a graphite fishing pole cut to 17"with a 1/4" all thread & a washer glued on one end.
It goes on & off pretty easy, I carry a few extra wing nuts in the tool box, when you drop one in the woods, it's usually gone.
If you have a stihl, I don't know if they have the 1/4" hole near the tip of the bar, I guess you could drill one just back of the roller.

I've bought wood, and typically this is a challenge area. If someone says, "This length is what I sell", I figure it's my choice to take it or leave it. But if they say they'll cut to length, and I ask for it cut to a specific length, I'm kinda ticked if I get wood that's 6-8 inches longer. I've got someone cutting on my property, and asked for the 18-20" length, and am getting 12-16". This bugs me because I am paying them to make 4 cuts when they could make 3, which adds up over the course of the day, and because they're generating wood that will burn up faster in my stove because they're shorter lengths.

I want to be able to stack for overnight burns. If my firebox has more empty space because someone can't be troubled to eyeball their cuts on the saw blade, it makes a difference for me through the winter. I figure if I give them a two-inch range and take an inch or or so either way beyond that, most of their cuts can fit that description. If they can't manage that , they probably shouldn't be weilding a chainsaw.

Another reason I like to go for uniform-ish cuts is that it helps me calculate wood use, which helps me with planning wood use down the road.

ETA: another fine things about h.com: you may agree or disagree with me about whether this is wrong, but at least you understand what I'm grumbling about . . .

I have a 16 inch bar on my Stihl 390. On the sprocket cover there is an embossed grove. From the tip of the bar to that grove is 19 inches. My stove is 22 inches wide.
This visual aid works great for me without having to deal with extra tools, paint, and God forbid, another saw just to mark the cuts.

Get a 1x1 peice of wood. Mark off you marks (i.e. 16", 32", ...) Use a bold marker. Lay this on the wood and just score the wood at the mark. I use this and it works great.

stejus said:

Get a 1x1 peice of wood. Mark off you marks (i.e. 16", 32", ...) Use a bold marker. Lay this on the wood and just score the wood at the mark. I use this and it works great.

Click to expand...

I did that for a while but kept cutting my stick :lol:
It did burn good though.:-/

I take the time to mark a tree. I use an old tape measure and marking paint. I cut to 16" which are conveniently the stud distances on a tape measure. I hate trimming pieces that are too long!

Eyeball - bar the first few cuts to calibrate my eyeball for the day, maybe periodically after that depending how the day goes.

I think if there is a bit of uneven in length, it will be better for airspace between wood & piles anyway - all exactly the same length to get more wood in a given space will hurt drying potential

Can't imagine adding tapes, markers, paint, measuring sticks etc. to the load - not to mention the extra time involved.

I just guess.

I use the Mingo Marker - fast - easy - perfect every time which is nice for a smaller insert like mine. Not a lot of margin for error/eyeballing.

onetracker said:

first thing i do is find my current location with a GPS.
then i cut a precise round off the log to ensure its square.
then, using a framing square and a chalk line, i encircle the entire log, rolling it with a peavy and double-checking the length.
depending on which saw i'm using, i add either 3/8 or .325 to each round to compensate for wood loss due to the width of the chain.
then, cut the round and repeat.
any rounds that deviate from the 16.75" are either recut (if they are too long) or thrown away. why keep a log that is too short?..how will i stack it properly?...how many btu's will i lose in efficiency?

seriously?
eyeball it or use the bar.
i wish i had the time to worry about getting my firewood to a perfect length.

one man's humble opinion

OT

Click to expand...

:lol: Brilliant

I've eyeballed the cuts and discoved the calibration is off ;-), now a tape measure and side walk chalk, next week I'll try out the mingo with 18" wheel.
My wife became picky about the look of stacked firewood in the yard, things look much better if the splits are all the same length.... stacks don't fall over as often either.

Sharpie mark on saw plus eyeball plus practice gets me close enough

we are not making furniture here , we BURN this wood!

gerry100 said:

Sharpie mark on saw plus eyeball plus practice gets me close enough

we are not making furniture here , we BURN this wood!

Click to expand...

+1

Unless your name is Backwoods... then all the splits are freaking perfect length.

Shawn

billb3 said:

the bar on my saw works pretty good.
good for +/- 1/2 "



or so

Click to expand...

I used to use a tape measure, measure out the whole log and use a hatchet to mark each spot to cut.
Then my dads like you dummy, just use your bar.
So that's what I do now...
+/- 1-2" is what bill really meant

I ran across this on another site . It's easy to make and use .
http://www.arboristsite.com/firewood-heating-wood-burning-equipment/179613.htm

Depends

If I am running the 250 I use the bar. I also run a tape measure and put a quick shot of spray paint for a mark. I have old cans lying around and use them if I feel like it. I measure mainly for my 10 inch pieces for N/S. Anything between 16-18 is fine for E/W.

I took a a old rare earth magnet out of a defunct hard drive and screwed it to a 16" chunk of broom handle. Put this on my MS 250 only falls off when I start the saw. So once the saw is started I snap it on the bar and mark the log, pull it off and cut. Only adds about a minute to the process and very easy. Cost $ 0.03 (I paid for the screw at some point) I will take a pic if I remember

’bert said:

I took a a old rare earth magnet out of a defunct hard drive and screwed it to a 16" chunk of broom handle. Put this on my MS 250 only falls off when I start the saw. So once the saw is started I snap it on the bar and mark the log, pull it off and cut. Only adds about a minute to the process and very easy. Cost $ 0.03 (I paid for the screw at some point) I will take a pic if I remember

Click to expand...

I have no idea what you are talking about. I can't begin to picture how a magnet on a broom stick, attached to a chain saw, can be used to mark firewood for cutting.

Kenster said:

’bert said:

I took a a old rare earth magnet out of a defunct hard drive and screwed it to a 16" chunk of broom handle. Put this on my MS 250 only falls off when I start the saw. So once the saw is started I snap it on the bar and mark the log, pull it off and cut. Only adds about a minute to the process and very easy. Cost $ 0.03 (I paid for the screw at some point) I will take a pic if I remember

Click to expand...

I have no idea what you are talking about. I can't begin to picture how a magnet on a broom stick, attached to a chain saw, can be used to mark firewood for cutting.

Click to expand...

My bar has a 1/4" hole just back of the roller. I cut the head off a 1/4" bolt & glued it into a piece of graphite fishing rod at 17".
Works great.
The earth magnet idea sounds great, & easier on & off. might be lighter weight with a piece of a fishing pole instead of a broom stick.
Picture may help see how it helps make every cut the same length. The thin piece of wood on the end fits into the previous mark/cut. Real accurate.
I limb, then install the jig then if the log is less than 15" dia, I leave it on & cut most of the way thru or mark 17", then finish with the length jig off.

Now that I'm used to it, it isn't much trouble & every round is 17".
I sometimes mount it on an old small saw & just use it to mark 17", then cut with the 20" saw.
Anal??, yea, but I like the splits 17" & so does my stove.

Same idea as bogydave, but just held on by a really stong magnet... refer to the attached pics.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-q93Mdukv0pA/TpHEM6bkM8I/AAAAAAAAAHg/zNgQ-QJ6_uQ/h120/IMG_0669.JPG
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-HOspOSn_poA/TpHEIcfBrMI/AAAAAAAAAHY/qgwFHMUCt5Y/h120/IMG_0670.JPG
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-BTBeEhW_flU/TpHEI_brgmI/AAAAAAAAAHc/ckHD_uIVwqA/h120/IMG_0671.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Rt4SyEQyr0M/TpHEQ8zTP2I/AAAAAAAAAHk/vDyzfCUtAtM/s800/IMG_0672.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-BEc34FlF5UM/TpHERSNu9DI/AAAAAAAAAHo/eiU7rfFHhk8/s800/IMG_0673.JPG

Thanks. A picture really helps.
Personally, I'd rather not have to stop and remove the measuring stick so I could cut all the way through the log.
The magnet gizmo wouldn't take a sec to pop off and on.
+1

Wow! I like that magnet ideal. But I cut currently 8-12 & 12-16 for my smaller NC13, by just eyeballing it. The bigger splits go in 1 pile and the smaller go in another pile. Or just on top of the longer ones. But may have too look into that later on.

I use my bar.
My dad uses a 16" stick.

Hass said:

billb3 said:

the bar on my saw works pretty good.
good for +/- 1/2 "



or so

Click to expand...

I used to use a tape measure, measure out the whole log and use a hatchet to mark each spot to cut.
Then my dads like you dummy, just use your bar.
So that's what I do now...
+/- 1-2" is what bill really meant

Click to expand...

If you want to go measure my rounds with a dictionary ruler that's probably what you'll find.


If I start really moving along and start going by eye the big rounds start getting short and the skinny rounds start getting long.
I don't cut enough to get real good at it.