Alcove construction questions

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quint

New Member
Oct 3, 2011
42
Bremerton, WA
Hey guys getting ready to start working on my alcove, gotta do the ripout so wanna start getting the ideas down for what I wanna do when I start putting it together.

Right now I plan on doing the cement backer board and was going to go with porcelain tiles that I wanted to match my entryway and kitchen. I was thinking maybe doing a similar colored stone on the bottom as I was wondering if the tiles would support the weight of the stove. I am pretty sure they can if done properly but would like some input on that.

Another question is if I go up part way with the tiles how far do you have to go up the sides of the alcove? I think up above the level of the stove but not sure.

Also the final question I have is I am pretty sure with the stove I am getting a lennox performer st210, I will have plenty of clearance as far as minimal clearances go. However I wanted to over do it just a tad. Was wondering if you put the sheet metal if that goes against the combustables then the backerboard over that then the tile. Would it be better to do just a air space 1" thick then just have the backerboard and the time?

Kind of looking for the easiest way to get a little better clearances just to over do it a little bit.

Thanks for any input guys.
 
A properly constructed tile hearth will easily support the weight of the stove. Use a decent product like a porcelain tile. The construction of the hearth will depend on the insulation requirements of the stove. Likewise for the walls. You don't get a clearance reduction unless the tiled cement board has a 1" air space behind it. Is that the intent? If so, it should extend to 6" above the stove's flue collar and the stove should be connected with double-wall connector pipe like Duravent DVL.

To have the best options for now and the future you might want to overkill the hearth to have an R=1.0 insulation value too. That would mean a build up of 4 layers of cement board under the tile. If you go ahead with the 1" air gap, take it up to a good height to cover any stove. Make it at least 36" high, but consider the visual design too. You might want to make it 48" high for better visual proportions in the space? There is no need for metal if you are using cement board with the air gap. Just attach doubled-up long strips of the 1/2" cement board to the studs, then attach the cement board over the strips.
 
Sounds good and not to bad. One question on the board build up. Once the strips are on which pushes it out that inch for the air space, then do I need two layers on top of that or four. With the 1" gap and a layer of cement board should be good I imagine. Ill double check with the manual. Thanks for the help BeGreen as usual.
 
One other question I had was where do you guys put your electrical plugs at for the blowers in these things. I would like to hide the cord as much as possible but realize the outlet is considered combustable so it has to meet the same requirements. Any ideas from ya guys.
 
You may be wasting a lot of time, energy and money if you don't need the wall protection. If you meet the manufacturer's minimum required Clearance To Combustibles without it, then you're golden. If you're trying to decrease your CTC's by using a wall protection system, you may only do so if the manufacturer says it's permissible. All this information should be spelled out in some detail in the manufacturer's installation/operation documentation for the appliance. Rick
 
quint said:
Sounds good and not to bad. One question on the board build up. Once the strips are on which pushes it out that inch for the air space, then do I need two layers on top of that or four. With the 1" gap and a layer of cement board should be good I imagine. Ill double check with the manual. Thanks for the help BeGreen as usual.

The only place you would need to use more than one thickness of anything is in the hearth, if there is a specified R-value requirement for the appliance. If you're going to build a wall protection system, there are no such requirements...only that it be completly non-combustible and have the 1" ventilated air space between it and the combustible wall. Rick
 
I think I am pretty good as far as the distance goes. The width on the space is 52" from stud to stud which would be the combustible portions. The width of the stove is 25.25" and the clearance from side of the stove to the combustables is 8.5" and to the back wall is 7.75". So looking at that I would have about 13.25" on each side which is well over the 8.5". Basically have about 5" to play with. That being said I have heard alot about going a little beyond the recommended values for all this. I was thinking that adding a air space would be a extra added insurance but I could be just falling back on my over engineering habits I have.

Guess I kind of answered my own question for the electrical. Since the walls fall outside of the clearance requirement for combustibles I could have those pretty much anywhere behind the stove built into the wall.
 
Yes, I just checked on the Performer's specs and you look good even if you don't do the wall shield and attach the cement board directly to the studs. It's up to you. If you think you might be changing the stove later on, then overkilling it a bit won't hurt. You might want to put the outlet for the stove fan behind the stove for the best finished look. Put it about 10" above the hearth and it will stay cool enough to not worry about.
 
Attaching cemet board directly to the studs, then tiling over that is perfectly acceptable, although the whole thing is still considered a combustible wall, because the tile and cement board will quite readily transfer heat into the wooden structure. But, if your clearances are in excess of the manufacturer's minimums, then you're already adding in a safety factor beyond the very conservative published requirements. I wouldn't go the extra mile to install a wall protection system (and yes, I'm an engineer :p ). Rick
 
Thanks a bunch guys. Pretty much the same thing they told me at the Stove shop I went to today. Payed for the Performer ST210, basically the discount from lennox made it tax free. Stove with pedastol and black trim (real basic version) with blower, cold air kit, for just under 2grand. Now I just gotta finish the alcove so I have someplace to put the darn thing lol.

Once again thanks for the help and Ill be sure to post some pics once I get finished and thru the process.
 
Well its going pretty well but I have one more question about the can lights I was looking to install. Ive got the stove pipe to chimney pipe adapter frame built with 2X4's and the framing is all complete for the most part. The problem is for clearances for the can lights I would have to install one on each far side of the alcove and one would be in the space between the wall and the frame for the adapter. I assume since this is all beyond the clearance for combustables that it should be fine.

Has anyone got any input for this. I assume that there wont be enough heat coming off to affect the lights any but want maybe some more experienced input for this. Thanks all.
 
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