Simpson DuraVent > Jotul 602 B

Hi all. I'm new to this site and hope to gain some valuable knowledge here.

I just picked up an old Jotul 602 B and new Simpson DuraVent Duratech 6" insulated chimney pipe. The 602 B is stamped 1980 and has a dark green enamel finish.

I have an unusual installation...we live in a yurt (see www.coloradoyurt.com for info if you're unfamiliar with yurts). I'm installing the stove and chimney myslef and have a few questions.

1. Because the yurt wall is different than a nomal stick-built wall, I'm not planning to use a wall thimble (the yurt company provides a steel pipe outlet). Therefore, it would be difficult to transition from interior black stove pipe to exterior chimney pipe. So, I'm planning to use chimney pipe for the entire installation (interior and exterior). Does this pose any problems? Is it alright to attach the insulated Duratech pipe to the stove outlet? Or should I plan on transitioning from stove pipe to chimney somehow (I've seen it done on other yurts and know it's possible with the right parts)?

2. We have wood floors. What materials are acceptable for the hearth? Hearth dimensions? Thickness?

3. We live in spruce/fir/aspen at 8300' in Colorado. Which of these species are preferred for burning in the Jotul? We also have access to gambel oak, pinon, and juniper, which I'm thinking might burn better/longer...thoughts?

4. Any tips on firing the 602 B?

5. The 602 has some surface rust on the dark green enamel and on the cook plate...best ways to clean/remove rust?

Any advice would be appreciated. We can't wait to try out the stove!
Thanks!

Nonprophet,

Our yurt is 24' diameter (approximately 450 sf). We have the standard foil/bubble wrap insulation provided by the yurt company. It has a pretty low R value.

I chose the 602 because it's so compact and we also have a Vermont Castings Stardance gas heat stove converted to propane. Other yurt dwellers around here have told us that their wood stoves were too hot in the small space.

I guess we'll find out this winter. We could always switch to a larger stove if we find it lacking.

Thanks.

Begreen,

Thanks for the info and photos. That's a nice installation; I like the custom wall treatment.

Because the 602 has a rear outlet, I was planning to go straight out through the wall and then 90-degree elbow up. I have about 15' of Duratech for the vertical section of chimney.

Any advice on my previously posted questions?

Thanks.

BeGreen said:

It gets warm under the 602. I don't have the original manual, but this is a place I wouldn't fudge. It should be put on a good hearth pad (not just a cheap metal one) that extends all the way to the yurt wall behind the stove, at least 8" to each side and at least 16" in front of the stove. In the least I would use something like a sheet of metal on top of a layer of full bricks.

Have you inspected the inside of the stove? You don't want to run it much if the side burn plates or top baffle are warped or cracked. Be sure to put a layer of sand or wood ashes in the bottom of the stove before firing. And make your first fires small break-in fires.

For wood, high altitude spruce or the oak would probably be the best for burn times. In milder weather the stove will go about 2-3 hrs between refills. In very cold weather, I wasn't exaggerating about feeding it hourly. We have one in our 240 sq ft greenhouse and it maintained about 50 degrees inside, while burning hardwood, when it was 15 deg outside. The older 602's need full air to start the fire. Once a coal bed is established, close the air down almost all the way. Just a 1/16" opening makes a big difference, especially if this stove is starting to leak a little at the seams. The stove will take off like a rocket with just a 1/4" opening on the air control. Get a thermometer for the hot plate so that you can control better. It's easy to overfire this little baby if you aren't paying attention.

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Thanks for all the helpful advice. I appreciate it!

Nonprophet said:

Aren't the 602's capable of a rear or top vent configuration? I thought they had a movable plate where you could vent them either way...

NP

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Yes, they do vent either top or rear and I was planning on going straight out the back, through the wall, and then 90 up. Thanks for the info.

Nonprophet said:

Psuedotsuga said:

Nonprophet said:

Aren't the 602's capable of a rear or top vent configuration? I thought they had a movable plate where you could vent them either way...

NP

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Yes, they do vent either top or rear and I was planning on going straight out the back, through the wall, and then 90 up. Thanks for the info.

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I think I'd really consider venting off the top--that way you get to use more single wall inside the yurt the create more heat, I think you'd be surprised how much heat a 4' or so length of single wall pipe can generate. Plus, I think it would draft better if you went straight up for a bit first--gives the smoke more "momentum" before going into a 90 degree turn, but that's just my opinion!


NP

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Thanks for the advice. I'll give that some thought, especially because the old 602 B is set up to top vent right now and the rusted/creosote-covered screws won't budge!

BeGreen said:

Have you inspected the inside of the stove? You don't want to run it much if the side burn plates or top baffle are warped or cracked. Be sure to put a layer of sand or wood ashes in the bottom of the stove before firing. And make your first fires small break-in fires.

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Hi again.

Should the sand go under the bottom burn plate? Do I need to remove that plate to lay the sand? I used some cleaning products on the stove to remove rust and loosen screws, so I was thinking about firing it outside (not connected to any pipe) to burn off the contaminants before installing it inside. Would that pose any problems? I assume there wouldn't be much of a draft, but it just needs to heat enough to clean the oil and cleaner out.

Thanks.

BeGreen said:

I was thinking the same thing. The 602 might be able to produce enough heat, but you would be filling it hourly when it gets very cold and windy.

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Well, you guys weren't kidding...third night burning in the 602...this little guy likes to be fed! If loaded with the largest possible single split and with the damper almost closed, I can still have coals 5-6 hours later, but the stove doesn't produce much heat during that slow burn. It seems like keeping the damper half way open produces much better heat output, but burns through the wood fast.

I'm burning Lodgepole Pine right now, so maybe denser wood would help. And I know rounds may also be better than splits, so I'll try that. The low temp outside has been around 10-20 degrees. Our propane heater kicks on after the 602 burns out, but it'd be nice to get more sustained warmth from the woodstove.

I'll have to keep experimenting...any more advice?

Thanks again!