Econoburn annual tube cleaning fun

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mtnmizer

New Member
Jun 19, 2008
129
W MT
I just finished cleaning the tubes on the EBW 150, a dirty job if
there ever was one. After 3 seasons I have a small amount of
deposits in the tubes that remained after brushing .The result of
too much idle time from last spring.

A quick search produced two possible solutions to getting out
the stuborn deposits.

Anyone familiar with these scrapers?--->
http://www.ebay.com/itm/350350850107?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
http://www.schaeferbrush.com/FlueProducts.html The elliptical flue scraper is what I'm looking at.



They appear to be exactly what is needed to get the tubes down to the metal clean. Anyone
with experience using these? One better than the other? Tnks MM
 
Haven't used that scraper, but here's something for you to consider. You need to know if those remaining deposits are creosote or impacted ash. Can you get fairly large sections of the stuff to flake off if you try to get under it with a flat screwdriver blade? If so, it's probably impacted/baked-on ash, but if the screwdriver only makes groves, then it's probably creosote. I had been brushing by hand with a 2 1/8" hard wire brush. A couple of weeks ago I tried spinning the brush with a drill, and that made the job go WAY faster, and also scrubbed it down to bare metal. If you think it's ash, you might want to try that first. But if it's creosote, you have a tiger by the tail. Spinning a brush will not work on creosote, but maybe you can get the cutter to work. If all else fails, I can send you a method that does work on creosote, but hopefully you'll get it done an easier way.
 
Have you guys tried the method Econoburn has in the book about using potatoes?

Not sure what it does or if it does any cleaning of the tubes but my turbulator lever was hard to move from idling too much. Put a few raw potatoes under the nozzle and it moves completely free.

gg
 
Currently have mine torn down. Regular boiler brush does not touch the creosote. I have one of the stiff tempered brushes---does ok. The Kewanee scraper looks like what I'm looking for. $18 bucks to ship seems quite steep. I am going to try the potatoe thing throughout the season.
 
Thanks for the replys, I now believe the deposits to be mostly ash based on the way it flakes, tnks WWFW .

A search of McMaster Carr's catalog shows they
have the elliptical scraper listed at a good price so I'm going to get one and try it

I buttoned the boiler back up for the time being, the turbulators are functional but tight,and will have to try
the potato trick. Is there a link anywhere to that?. MM
 
The potato trick was in the econoburn manual. It said to place 2 or 3 raw potatoes under the nozzle if turbulator action is sticky.

In the spring I think I did it twice but it freed the lever completely.

Heating my pool and now my added storage tank has completely changed how my upper firebox and door look. The Door is basically free of goo. It had a thick coating last spring from idling too much.

gg
 
Must say I'm somewhat puzzled by this potato thing. I understand how it works - the potato is primarily water, and so the water vapor goes up the tubes and hits the turb linkage, providing just enough lubricant to "unstick" the sections of linkage which are causing the binding. But, what I don't understand is the idea of adding water in a wood appliance. We all know how important it is to use well-seasoned wood, and some of us know what happens when you don't :sick:. So, the idea of sending extra water up the tubes has me scratching my head. I no longer use the factory linkage and don't get that problem, but am curious enough to check with Dale about this. I doubt that they would recommend such an approach without having evaluated the effect of adding water, and I'll post back what he has to say about it.
 
willworkforwood said:
Must say I'm somewhat puzzled by this potato thing. I understand how it works - the potato is primarily water, and so the water vapor goes up the tubes and hits the turb linkage, providing just enough lubricant to "unstick" the sections of linkage which are causing the binding. But, what I don't understand is the idea of adding water in a wood appliance. We all know how important it is to use well-seasoned wood, and some of us know what happens when you don't :sick:. So, the idea of sending extra water up the tubes has me scratching my head. I no longer use the factory linkage and don't get that problem, but am curious enough to check with Dale about this. I doubt that they would recommend such an approach without having evaluated the effect of adding water, and I'll post back what he has to say about it.

Just speculation but where you add the water may be a key element. Wet wood won't burn/gasify well and we know that. Properly dry wood will gasify just wonderfullly. Potatoes in the secondary are obviously post gasification so my guess would be linked to the water going up the tubes. At the point where the potatoes are they will generate super heated steam but not really offset the gasification process while adding volume and trubulence to the exhaust gasses. Super heated steam will liquify the creosote and could loosen any impacted ash that may be in the tubes better than just burning gasses as the steam is actually going to keep its heat potential longer than spent gasses that have already begun to diminish in volume because they are cooling. Those with stack meters might see a temporary spike in stack temps but should also see an overall drop in optimum stack temps until it's time to throw in a couple more potatoes. I built a tube cleaner for my EKO that attaches to my portable drill but potatoes in the secondary sounds like a great option that could leave the bit and drill to middle and end of season cleaning.
 
You guys are making me hungry :)
 
There is a chemical reaction with the starch in the taters.. The creosote can't take it so it falls apart and turns to dust. This is what I have heard many times. I should also give it a try.
 
I've seen the potato thing before. I thought it was in the old EKO manual but I'm not sure. I remember putting them in the top chamber though not below the nozzle. It might have actually been potatoes skins that I read about or Zenon may have mentioned it for some reason. 2 winters ago we had a bag that had gone bad so chucked a few in periodically and it did seemed to make a difference. My bypass didn't stick like it did the first season.
 
Found another interesting cleaning tool @ www.plcpigs.com ---elliptical scraper w/brush. I can't directly link to item----comes up as "Blacklisted Item"????? Word content filter??? This will scrub the taters and make shredded hashbrowns. Under pilley brushes.
 
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