Anybody install an in-pipe damper with a Leyden

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I am new to this forum and new to this Leyden wood stove. I am also new to secondary burn chambers. I am not new to burning wood though. I might be trying to do something that this stove can't do. I have had a fire in this stove maybe 8-10 nights so far this fall. It seems to get the stove to burn with the internal damper closed in the secondary chamber, I need to have a really hot fire. This puts out way too much heat for these 40 degree nights. If I leave the bypass open it burns out too fast. I was wondering if a damper in the pipe above the stove would be a way to find a happy medium until the nights get cold enough to really let this stove run.

I can already tell the cast iron heats differently than the steel stove we had previous to our failed attempt with a pellet stove!
 
My guess is that a damper on the stove would not cut down the heat output very much...in the down draft mode. This is because that mode is dependent on have a fairly hot stove and a large bed of embers, which puts out a lot of heat in any case.

The exception would be this - if you think you have an overdraft, that is...too strong of a chimney.....and that is making it difficult to control the stove, then a turn damper or barometric damper might tame the beast.
 
I don't really think I have an overdraft problem. What I am trying to achieve is just a small fire with low to medium heat. I was thinking if I put the damper in, and left the bypass open it might burn like my old steel stove did and just kinda mull along, with just a couple sticks at a time, without being too hot or too dirty. Then when the nights get colder and we need the heat I would just leave the pipe damper open and run the stove the way its meant to be run, hot bed of coals and the bypass closed.
 
Webmaster said:
My guess is that a damper on the stove would not cut down the heat output very much...in the down draft mode.

I think the OP is talking about using the pipe damper when NOT in the down draft mode. Basically using the firebox like an old pre-EPA stove for short shoulder-season fires, when he doesn't have the coals for the down draft mode.

So yes, milliburner, I think it should work - it will slow your fire down, and keep a little more heat from heading up the flue as well. It will also help keep your stove-top temps from getting too high, as mine sometimes do with a wide-open flue. I've been thinking about putting a damper in myself for a few years but never did it.
 
Thats exactly what I am talking about. Maybe I'll try it and post the results of how it works. This time of year its nice to kindle a little fire in the evening and put enough wood in before bed to last four or five hours. I'll be out less than ten bucks to try it.
 
Yeah I have. I just can't seem to get it where I want. Im thinking if there is a damper in the pipe, I can leave the air inlet open further and it might burn a little better? Maybe, maybe not. Draft is draft I guess. Same result no matter how you control it.
 
Jack Wagon said:
Have you tried a combination of your air controller (not the bypass) and as mentioned above smaller loads?

Not sure how it works for you, but with my stove it's usually too much air giving too hot/fast a fire, or too little air giving a dirty burn with dirty glass. I have a hard time finding the sweet spot with bypass open.
 
Same thing here. With the air control closed there isn't enough air, but with just the slightest crack its too much. Thats what got me thinking about the damper. I figured someone might have tried it. If I remember the harmon oakwood is set up just about the same as this leyden. I'm sure I will be happy with this stove, just want to find what makes it happy.
 
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