Leyden secondary burn questions

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I have a few questions about this secondary burn operation. I am burning in a Lopi Leyden
1. How hot should the stove be before closing the internal damper
2. How hot will the flue be during secondary burn?
3. How do you know its actually burning in secondary combustion mode?
4. If it isn't burning in secondary correctly, will I be making tons of creosote?

I know my wood isn't seasoned to where it should be. :grrr: We decided in june that we had enough with the pellet stove thing. Exit Thelin Parlour, bring in Lopi leyden. I am excited to burn wood again becuase there is no better heat. I just wish I had more time to season the wood. I bought two cords ASAP in july and stacked them in a sunny spot. I have since made use of a salvage permit with the local timber company and gathered another cord+ of wood that was cut over the winter. This seems fairly dry. I have a moisture meter on order. ;-)


Thanks in advance for all the help.
 
The secondary burn helps to burn the smoke that combustion directly on the wood missed. As such, it happens against the baffle at the top of the stove when conditions inside the stove are right.

Here is a video of my stove doing a secondary burn. This is with the air closed mostly down. If I were to give it more primary air, the dynamics of the fire would change and there would be less secondary action since the additional primary air would be providing enough air for cleaner combustion so there wouldn't be as much smoke to burn left up at the baffle. Basically, secondary burning allows you to run the stove cleaner and longer than w/out it. The second video is one that was shared a few months back that explains secondary burning much better than I did here.

Secondary Burn



How secondary burning works:



pen
 
Thank you. I have seen these videos before. I read on some other posts of hearing the stove roaring when the secondary combustor ignites. I am not hearing this. I am getting the slow almost floating flames. For flue temp, with my magnetic thermo right at the top of the stove pipe, right before it goes into the metalbestos, it settles as high as 275-300 to as low as 175-200. When the bypass is first closed it is much higher. By the time it gets to 175 there is a good bed of coals to load some more wood onto. This is all with the bypass closed.

I have read that creosote forms below 250. I seem to be running a long time below that mark with the stove giving tons of heat. I am afraid of filling the pipe with creosote. I have not gone up on the roof yet. I cleaned it before I put this stove in and I have only burned a couple wheel barrows worth of wood so far. In another week or so I plan on having a peek. The part that scares me is that with a metal roof, I can't go up there once we have snow. (tried it once neighbor got a real kick out of seeing my feet sticking out of the shrubs and me stuck in 6 feet of snow)
 
I never hear a roaring. On occasion I've heard air getting sucked into stove pipe joints or air as it's drawn in the secondaries, but no roaring.

I'm not that familiar with the leyden, but I would assume the combustion chamber is simply the area you see where the secondary combustion happens.

pen
 
From what I can tell, the chamber is behind the fire box. There are two large holes in the fire brick at the bottom of the rear wall. These feed the gasses into the secondary chamber to be burned again.

At least I think that's how it works.

Maybe it is doing just what it is supposed to, but it blackens the glass rather easily.
 
That's interesting. I know lopi lists a cross draft design, but I wasn't aware of that. Sounds like I need to do some research.

pen
 
I have been burning wood my whole life. The first 18 Years (well, maybe the first 6 or 7 I wasn't much help) I grew up burning wood in a boiler, 10 cords a year. When I got my own place there was a Warnock Hersey (if anyone has had of them) stove in the house. And we used that for 2 or 3 years with excellent results. But I always had a year ahead on wood. We then spent 5 years (and thousands of dollars) in pellet stove world. When we went to get the leyden, I didn't know anything about the combustion chamber and all that. I thought it was a regular stove like the WH. The old stove has been happily heating my garage for the last 5 years.

Im not new to wood burning, just new to this type of stove. I just want to make sure that I am running this leyden the way it wants to be run.

The leyden was new in the crate. The previous owner bought it in a TV fundraising auction, but then never installed it. His insurance company said he couldn't where it was a mobile home. So we picked up a brand new two year old stove for a great price.
 
The Leyden is what is called a down draft stove. Lopi calls it "cross draft". More finicky to operate than the average non-cat stove. Needs a good coal bed established before loading it up. It demands a good coal bed and dry wood. And yeah you will hear a roar from the combustion chamber.

Do a search for "everburn" the name Vermont Castings gives to the technology for information on burning in the stove. The rumble is called the "Everburn rumble" by VC stove owners. Secondary burn is nothing like it is in other non-cats like the 30-NC. It is happening in the chamber behind the firebox.

As to accumulations, just like any other stove ya need to check the chimney monthly in months when it isn't snowing so you don't end up in the shrubs to see how you are burning and how the wood is.

(Thankfully you didn't get killed that time!)
 
I plan on giving it a few weeks then checking it. Usually by mid december the snow is here to stay so hopefully by then I will have a grasp of how this stove works.
 
milliburner said:
How do you know its actually burning in secondary combustion mode?

The temps of flue or stove top don't always tell the story of how good your coal bed is. On the Oakwood, a few forum members have pointed out that if you place a thermometer on the side of the secondary chamber, toward the rear of the stove, you will get a very good indication of whether secondaries have kicked in.

For example, I just shut my bypass 5 minutes ago and the temp didn't really move from 250F, so I know I need to open the bypass and get more heat/coals in the firebox. If the secondary combustion kicks in, it will quickly rise to 400-500F, sometimes much more. The flue temp will drop a bit at the same time. I imagine the Leyden would be similar.

Another way to tell is to go outside and look at your stack: no smoke means you are burning the smoke!
 
I have seen the smoke go completely clear. Just the waves like heat on the asphalt in the summer. That must be a good thing.
 
No smoke means success with the combuster.
Temps. are trivial. Every stove and pipe is different. My typical internal flue temp during afterburn is hot. Anywhere from 500-800degrees. But again, that just depends on what is going on in the stove, how much air it's getting, etc....

Dry wood is key. You might struggle this year. When in doubt, burn it hot and dont' try closing the bypass until your new load is burning hot. With a deep coal bed, you won't have to be as diligent.

I only hear a rumble when first closing the bypass and when things are really cooking back there. I associate it with the sound of a blow torch, which is essentially what's happening in the combuster when you're burning hard.

Man it's good to be back on Hearth.com
 
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