Osburn 2400 Insert Install w/pics

kruger · Oct 17, 2011

Started the install this morning about seven. Finished up around 1 this afternoon with a good breakfast break in the middle. Pretty happy with the install. No joke on the liner not being very flexible. Really happy with how the stove fit. It was a little bit of a task getting the appliance connector to seat down in the collar, but managed. Seasoned it twice today. Once around one p.m...let it cool to room temp and then fired it to about 250F again tonight. I'm going to bring it to 450F tomorrow night after work or later in the week if it's warm tomorrow. Pretty excited to get it to full reg temp. Thanks for all your help in this process...this site is a wealth of knowledge.
Aaron

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Prepping the Flex King Pro liner with insulation

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Used Rutland Furnace Cement to seal all joints (Menard's $2.50/pint)

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Finishing the block-off plate. Used ceramic insulation above the plate. Kind of a tight fit with the liner coming down through the flue

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Feeding the liner down through the existing chimney and clay flue tiles

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This is the largest insert I could get to fit (recommendation of many of you), and it was a tight fit, but fits well.

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Tore up a little of the foil tape on the way down...

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Finished product, minus the trim.

wood-fan-atic · Oct 17, 2011

Nice job. Why didnt you install the trim as well?

begreen · Oct 17, 2011

That is a snug fit. But you are ready to go. That looks like a first class block off plate. The foil tape on the flue collar is the only mistake I see. It's fine for the insulation, but it is not rated for the high temps seen at the flue collar. I would scrape it off and use furnace cement to seal the collar. But other than that, nice job! I think you will be chirping with praise for the bigger stove come December.

BrotherBart · Oct 17, 2011

Yep. That tape will go South on the first good burn. Do it. Feed that puppy and let it eat.

kruger · Oct 17, 2011

The shipper bent up the trim...filing a claim and reordering.

Yeah, I wasn't sure about the foil tape. I put it over the furnace cement seal I did based on BB's recommendation. Thanks for the reply, I will surely scrape that tape off. I'm happy with it and ready to see what it can do. How hot can I run this stove? I use a laser temp gun and I'm curious how hot I can go.

kruger · Oct 17, 2011

WYO said:
I put it over the furnace cement seal I did based on BB's recommendation.

He recommended the cement, NOT the tape!

kruger · Oct 17, 2011

BrotherBart said:
That tape will go South on the first good burn.

What exactly will it do? I tried to scape it and it was on there pretty good. I was just using my finger nail, so I will get a 1" putty knife and see what I can do.

begreen · Oct 17, 2011

Read the temp on top, in front of the convective vents. I don't own this stove but would guess that normal operational temps with the blower going should be about 500-550F there. With the blower off, I would guess 650-700F. If the plan is to keep the stove for a long time, don't try to find its upper limit. That would be somewhere north of metal glowing territory which definitely would void the warranty and might end up soiling your underpants.

Instead, find it's cruising temp and fall in the groove.

BrotherBart · Oct 17, 2011

Steel stove so don't worry about taking it up to five hundred early on. Which is gonna stink up the joint. But keep it down around a couple of hundred to smoke check the stove and liner first. After that six to seven running temps are primo. You have a good chance to put a thermometer on the stove top and on the front to compare temps before the surround is installed.

That will give you an idea of real stove top temps after the surround is installed. My bet, 150 degree difference between the top of the stove and the front.

kruger · Oct 17, 2011

BrotherBart said:
But keep it down around a couple of hundred to smoke check the stove and liner first.

What's the best way to do a smoke check? I'm not familiar. Are you just talking about seasoning the paint on the stove?

BrotherBart · Oct 17, 2011

Don't worry about the tape. The adhesive on the stuff is silicone based and will vaporize when the pipe gets hot. Just leave it. No harm, no foul and no danger. It won't flame up. May smell a little bit. But the stove will be smelling worse about that time the first time it gets good and hot.

BrotherBart · Oct 17, 2011

WYO said:
BrotherBart said:

But keep it down around a couple of hundred to smoke check the stove and liner first.

Click to expand...

What's the best way to do a smoke check? I'm not familiar. Are you just talking about seasoning the paint on the stove?

I am saying just start a small kindling fire the first time to see if anything leaks, which it won't, before you turn it loose to do what it is gonna do well. Toss a bunch of heat. It would just be really inconvenient to jump right into a big burn and then notice something.

Baby steps. You are lighting a fire in your house. After that, fire that sucker up and enjoy.

kruger · Oct 17, 2011

Cool. That's what I thought you meant. I fired it to about 200 degrees F yesterday immediately after the install and then fired it to about 250F last night late after it had cooled. I am going to fire it again tonight (rainy and 39F right now in Cheyenne) to about 400. Osburn recommended 250, 250, 450, and then a full burn for heat. Would anyone recommended a different seasoning pattern?

begreen · Oct 17, 2011

You should have no problems following the mfg recommendations for the stove.

kallsop · Oct 17, 2011

Nice install. I was going to get the Osburn 2400 insert until I checked the measurements and it wouldn't fit my fireplace. Got the Osburn 2000 insert instead, should be installed in the next couple of weeks. Anyone know a good installer near Manchester CT?

How many people did it take to wrestle that 545 lb. beast anyway? It's got to be one of the heaviest inserts you can get. The Osburn 2000 is a more manageable 380 lb.

kruger · Oct 18, 2011

Once the doors are off and bricks are out, it's not to bad. I have no idea how much it weighted when stripped down, but we put a couple 2x4s underneath and each took a corner. It lifted fine. Too get it through the 32" door, I lifted it with one other guy with said 2x4s...not to bad. I bet it didn't weigh more than 400.

alabaster · Nov 1, 2011

Thanks for writing this. It's helping to convince me to do the install myself, but my main concern is the weight. It's specified as 545 lb, and I need to go up a half flight of stairs. I'm considering large woodburning fireplace inserts and the Osburn 2400 and Pacific Energy Summit are my top choices, as both claim the highest heat outputs I can find - 100,000 and 97,000 BTU, resp. From what I can glean from the manuals, the Pacific comes with the bricks uninstalled, and a DIY install blogger I found on gardenweb.com says he moved it with a hand truck. How did you handle the Osburn's weight?

BrotherBart · Nov 1, 2011

Take out the bricks and take off the door. That will knock off over a hundred pounds. And they include the surround panel in that weight which you will carry in under your arm.

kruger · Nov 1, 2011

alabaster said:
Thanks for writing this. It's helping to convince me to do the install myself, but my main concern is the weight. It's specified as 545 lb, and I need to go up a half flight of stairs. I'm considering large woodburning fireplace inserts and the Osburn 2400 and Pacific Energy Summit are my top choices, as both claim the highest heat outputs I can find - 100,000 and 97,000 BTU, resp. From what I can glean from the manuals, the Pacific comes with the bricks uninstalled, and a DIY install blogger I found on gardenweb.com says he moved it with a hand truck. How did you handle the Osburn's weight?

It wasn't too bad. See above your question for me notes.

alabaster · Nov 1, 2011

Oh, sorry, I must have misssed that question and reply. So, I see that you can remove the bricks - the manual says the bricks are shipped in place, and it also has instructions for installing them, but it also says: "Do not remove bricks or mortar from the existing fireplace when installing the insert.", which I thought referred to the bricks in the insert, but now I realize refers to those of the existing masonry fireplace. Thanks for your help - you've convinced me to go for it and do my own install!

Geppetto83 · Nov 1, 2011

Hi WYO,
It will be great to see a pic of the end result! That Osburn 2400 sure thing looks to be a big heater!

kruger · Nov 1, 2011

Geppetto83 said:
Hi WYO,
It will be great to see a pic of the end result! That Osburn 2400 sure thing looks to be a big heater!

Still waiting on the trim the shipper mangled. I will get the picks up asap.

zufrieden · Nov 3, 2011

I am new to this and am looking at a new insert to replace the Squire I have. Why do you insulate the chimney pipe? And with what?

Iembalm4aLiving · Nov 3, 2011

Welcome to the Osburn club! Nice job on your install.

kruger · Nov 3, 2011

zufrieden said:
I am new to this and am looking at a new insert to replace the Squire I have. Why do you insulate the chimney pipe? And with what?

To keep temperatures high as the gases exit. As temperatures in the gases drop, creasote and other corrosive deposits form on your liner.

Osburn 2400 Insert Install w/pics

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