I am freezing, glass is dirty, but I am scared I will damage my stove by overfiring.

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I have had my Equinox Soapstone Stove for a week now. I did the season burn and small fires for 5 days. Tonight I was ready to fire up my stove, but the hottest I got it was 350 according to a food thermometer sitting on top of the stove (i am waiting on my stove thermometer to arrive). Max temp in living room is 65 and 60 in the other rooms. This is not going to work, how long should it take to get my 3000 sq ft house with cathederal ceilings to 70? I have been putting wood in the stove since 8am this morning.

I also have a blower and my heatpump fan on to circulate the heat, but it is cold in the house. The AC is not on.
Outside temp is 41 and the temp. of stove top now is 225.

Any advice from other soapstone owners is appreciated.
 
Tell us more about the chimney, the wood(type, when it was cut/split/stacked) and how you're running the stove. Burning a new stove without the proper thermometer is going to be tough if you've never ran a stove before.

Also what does the fire look like and how much wood are you loading into the stove at a time?
 
Half Moon Ranch said:
I have had my Equinox Soapstone Stove for a week now. I did the season burn and small fires for 5 days. Tonight I was ready to fire up my stove, but the hottest I got it was 350 according to a food thermometer sitting on top of the stove (i am waiting on my stove thermometer to arrive). Max temp in living room is 65 and 60 in the other rooms. This is not going to work, how long should it take to get my 3000 sq ft house with cathederal ceilings to 70? I have been putting wood in the stove since 8am this morning.

I also have a blower and my heatpump fan on to circulate the heat, but it is cold in the house. The AC is not on.
Outside temp is 41 and the temp. of stove top now is 225.

Any advice from other soapstone owners is appreciated.


Do you have a roaring fire?
What do the flames look like? Are they active or lazy flames?
How much wood is in the stove?
What is the stove connected to? (Chimney? Stove pipe? Liner?)
When was your wood cut and split?
Why are you waiting on a thermometer to arrive? Go to an Ace Hardware or any hardware stove and pick one up.
 
We will need to know a bit more about the installation and the wood being burned to assess the situation. If the wood is fully seasoned, it could be that you are being too cautious. Tell us more about your stove installation and how you are running the stove.
 
Big house with high ceilings...crank it up!
 
It is really hard for most people to over-fire a Hearthstone. If your wood is dry, stuff that monster full and get it going.
 
My first guess is that its the wood (channeling BWSavage). New burner+low stove temps=green firewood. Did you buy it from a guy who swore it was "seasoned" for 2 years?
 
Yeah, wet wood is the usual suspect. More info is definitely required, but I'll go ahead and suggest that you leave the blower off until the stove gets hot, and leave the heat pump fan off until the stove room gets hot. Worry about moving the heat *after* you have it. :)
 
Den said:
Yeah, wet wood is the usual suspect. More info is definitely required, but I'll go ahead and suggest that you leave the blower off until the stove gets hot, and leave the heat pump fan off until the stove room gets hot. Worry about moving the heat *after* you have it. :)


Even with wet wood they should be able to get the Equinox over 350.
 
BrowningBAR said:
Den said:
Yeah, wet wood is the usual suspect. More info is definitely required, but I'll go ahead and suggest that you leave the blower off until the stove gets hot, and leave the heat pump fan off until the stove room gets hot. Worry about moving the heat *after* you have it. :)


Even with wet wood they should be able to get the Equinox over 350.

A food thermometer is dictating that temp.
3000sqft, high ceilings, possible damp wood, 65f in the house, id say the OP isn't doing to bad unless its 70f outside.

Hope Half Moon makes it back here. I know this place will get her on the right track.
 
north of 60 said:
BrowningBAR said:
Den said:
Yeah, wet wood is the usual suspect. More info is definitely required, but I'll go ahead and suggest that you leave the blower off until the stove gets hot, and leave the heat pump fan off until the stove room gets hot. Worry about moving the heat *after* you have it. :)


Even with wet wood they should be able to get the Equinox over 350.

A food thermometer is dictating that temp.
3000sqft, high ceilings, possible damp wood, 65f in the house, id say the OP isn't doing to bad unless its 70f outside.

Hope Half Moon makes it back here. I know this place will get her on the right track.


I don't mean to sound 'cold', but 65° is not the definition of 'freezing'. The stove walls in the kitchen, where the Intrepid used to sit, would be below 60° with the intrepid running.
 
Crystal, stick around, girl friend !


We'll get ya going.


Welcome to the forums !!
 
Doing The Dixie Eyed Hustle said:
Crystal, stick around, girl friend !


We'll get ya going.


Welcome to the forums !!


Hell, just post again to show photos of the Equinox. :lol:
 
Try running small fans or ceiling fans. The heat pump may be taking the warm air and turning it into cold air. Yoir ducts will cool the air considerably. Small fans pushing cold air to the stove work best and ceiling fans in reverse on low (winter mode) Also dry wood is key.
 
If the glass is black or brown I believe you are probably burning too cool.

If you believe that the wood is the issue then perhaps you might try to source some envi-blocks or similar to purchase and mix with your wood to help get a better burn.

pen
 
DexterDay said:
Try running small fans or ceiling fans. The heat pump may be taking the warm air and turning it into cold air. Yoir ducts will cool the air considerably. Small fans pushing cold air to the stove work best and ceiling fans in reverse on low (winter mode) Also dry wood is key.


I've tryed running my heat pump fan and found that I lose more heat that way. small fans here and there work best.
 
First things first: go make yourself a big mug of hot cocoa, and add tights, a warm sweater, and thick socks to your outfit. Then go outside and chop wood for 15 minutes, and come back so we can talk. We all hate to see anyone shivering.

Read your profile, and if that gas fireplace was ventless, congratulations on getting it out of your house. Good step.

I understand your fear of overfiring--I've read the manual, too. The biggest threat for overfiring the Hearthstones comes in leaving your ashpan door open and walking away and getting distracted. Second is from doing the same thing with your loading door. Make a commitment to yourself never, ever, never to do that, and you've eliminated 95% of the risk. Most folks here will advise that you simply don't ever crack the ashpan door to get extra air on your wood, especially when the stove is cold. Just about anything else you'll do to it is asking it to do what it was made to do. She was born to run. As a matter of fact, the daily run-up fire that the manufacturer recommends will get you up past 350, usually. My experience has been that my stove does a good job keeping my house warm running at cruising temps (300-400 usually) after I do the run-up fire.

Sounds like you've got several things going on that are contributing to your discomfort. I'm guessing that your stove is located in your living room, and whatever heat you're generating is going up. That's a tough situation, but you are wise to focus first on taking that stove out on the highway and blowing the carbon out of its valves. You should be able to get a lot more heat out of it. Second the vote to get a stove thermometer--that's an expensive stove, and spending another 20 bucks to help you run it right just makes good sense.

Agreed with the advice above about getting good wood in there, or even burning pressed logs or something until you know what you can expect from the stove. Also excellent advice to turn off blowers and ducting fans until you have some heat to circulate.

Another thing that can impact how quickly the place warms up is to look at your hearth--if it's very dense, it might be serving as a heat sink that's taking awhile to warm up. Over time that will help even out temperature fluctuations, but it can take awhile to soak up the heat--esp if your stove is running cold.

Given the size of your house and the cathedral ceiling, that stove may prove inadequate for heating the whole house. We have a forum member with a 3Ksf house and an Equinox who also installed a Clydesdale at the other end of his house--and his is a ranch. (He's also further north.) But keep your warm socks handy, and get some incense for chasing the air circulation patterns, and put on your sleuthing hat (hopefully also warm) and hunker in for getting to know your house on a whole new level. Take it a step at a time (first one, of course, is getting the Equinox cooking), and try the small tweaks first. The Equinox might take you 80% of the way, and you may need a couple of small-space solutions to warm other areas--whether another wood stove, a small vented fireplace, electric in-floor heating in the bathroom, etc. Lots of us have to work this out over time.

One more thing that might be helpful is to think of your house and heating system as a sum of many parts that equal a system working together: stove, house size, layout, orientation, siting, chimney, other heating systems, ventilation, circulation, insulation, insolation, climate, lifestyle, heatsink mass in the stove area, etc., etc.

As you get to know how these interact, you learn ways to make small tweaks that make a difference before you take the larger, more difficult to reverse steps.

This is a great place for finding support through that process..
 
You have come to the right place Crystal (Welcome aboard), just a few more details about your set up and wood and you will be on your way to a warmer house and a roaring fire.
 
Heating 3000sqft with the Mansfield here in NH. A few observations:

1) I burn dry wood (at least 3 years c/s/s), but still get dirty glass, at this time of year, due to the more sluggish draft. The glass gets soot mainly along the bottom corners. Although you might have poorly seasoned wood, dirty glass is possible at this time of year with well seasoned wood as well.

2) I was worried about over-firing my stove as well, but the stove is resilient and seems to handle high temps very well - my cruising temp during winter is 550* and I've reached just over 600*, but I try to keep the temp in the mid-500's. Get that stove up to 500-550* and you'll start to throw some serious heat into your home.

3) A lot of the heat from the stove is going toward warming your walls, furniture, etc., etc. Once you get that stove up to temp and get consistent heat output throughout the day, you'll bring your structures up to temp and will find it easier to see better air temps throughout the home.

4) The high ceiling makes for a heating challenge - get small table fan and set them on the floor - blowing cold air toward the stove room. This sets up a natural convection cycle and I've managed to even out my home temps with just three small fans.

Good luck! Cheers!
 
WOW!
First: I have never used a forum before.
Second: I cannot believe the quick and helpful response!

Thank you, now that I know I have help details below:

Wood: Beech green
Oak overseasoned
Poplar is seasoned

Due to lack of wood I am burning all three at the same time. I don't want to spend the money on wood when we have tons of it on our land. The Equinox and installation nearly broke me. I hope this wood will work.

Chimney: Duratech doublewall black pipe straight out the top of stove 20 ft up and straight out the roof into a ss chimney, which is a little short in my opninion it does not rise above the roof pitch it is 4 ft below it, but I have more ss chimney to add to it asap. Seems to draft well, no smoke coming in the house.

The meat thermomter is stuck between to soapstone tiles on stove top.

This am i woke up to no fire, just hot coals and inside temp of 55 outside 37.

Put 3 logs of different wood types and it is flaming big and I think that it is roaring I hear a little sound when the door is cracked. Damper wide open and has been for 30 mins and stove top is not over 225 yet. Urgh
 
Something else that might help you in the long run is a stovepipe damper. You may be losing a lot of heat up the chimney. I wouldn't necessarily start with that tweak, as it takes a little sophistication with stoves to use them with an EPA stove--IMHO--but put it on your list of things to try.

For now, I'd put the green beech aside and just burn the oak and poplar and see if you can get some heat out of that puppy.
 
Yep, lose the Beech for now and sounds like you may have to add more SS chimney pipe.
 
If your damper has been wide open for 30 minutes and the fire is roaring start shutting you damper down in increments. When yoh leave the damper wide open you are effectively sending all your heat up the chimney.
I doubt your oak is over seasoned how long has it been cut split and stacked?
 
Close that damper about halfway and you'll see the stove temp increase. Wait until you get to about 5-600 and damper it down even more.
 
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