St Croix Combustion fan squealing

I'd take it apart and do a good cleaning then lube the bearing and re-install it.

My Pepin did the same thing in the past but a good cleaning solved the problem.

DrEvil said:

Did you have to disconnect your exhaust to take it apart? Mine is all RTV'd together and I was hoping I didn't have to take the exhaust pipe off.

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The motor and impeller are on a mounting plate, with a few nuts removed it comes right out, You'll likely ruin the gasket but they are a common item and easy to find they come in two sizes. Get your replacement gasket before you remove the motor and impeller assembly.

You should not need to touch the exhaust system at all.

http://www.kinsmanstoves.com/ give them a call talk to Eric and let him know you're a hearth.com member.

Also www.woodheatstoves.com

Dozens more.

DrEvil said:

SmokeyTheBear said:

http://www.kinsmanstoves.com/ give them a call talk to Eric and let him know you're a hearth.com member.

Also www.woodheatstoves.com

Dozens more.

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Tried both and neither deal with St Croix. I'll call my B+M for a second opinion, but I doubt they will even know what I am talking about.

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The material is all the same and what they have for 6 inch (likely six hole) combustion motor mount gaskets is the item.

try this www.autorain.com

woodsman23 said:

try this www.autorain.com

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Autorain is where I get my gaskets from as well. I keep a supply on hand as I have not had much luck in not damaging the gasket during disassembly.

I also purchased an extra exhaust fan so I can simply swap them out, clean it up, and store it for change out during the next cleaning.

DrEvil, The end of last season my combustion blower on the prescott was doing the same exact thing as yours. So I replaced the blower about a month ago.

It is a very easy fix, all you need to do is replace the motor with the impeller fan on it. The motor bolts to the metal conical piece that is bolted down and RTV’d to the exhaust port. The motor sits on top with a gasket under it and is easily replaced. You do not have to replace the metal conical piece that it bolts to although, it comes with the motor when you order the part from the dealer ($140). The gasket also comes with the motor.

If you buy the motor from a OEM you will just get the motor and not the impeller fan. You will have to take the impeller fan off the old motor and transfer it to the new one. The fan is attached to the motor spindle with a set screw. If the OEM is over $100 i'd go with the st croix replacement. It comes with a lot more parts.

Knock on wood - I've not had to replace the combustion blower but
did have to replace the room blower. I got that from a dealer
but where are you guys getting the blower from and do you have a
part # handy? Figured I would ask since some of you say you
have replaced it and tchdngrnby says he has one on hand.
I'd probably like to order one and have it here too in case.

Xena said:

Knock on wood - I've not had to replace the combustion blower but
did have to replace the room blower. I got that from a dealer
but where are you guys getting the blower from and do you have a
part # handy? Figured I would ask since some of you say you
have replaced it and tchdngrnby says he has one on hand.
I'd probably like to order one and have it here too in case.

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Xena, the part # is 80P20001-R, got it from the dealer for 140 bucks.

Cool and thank you!

Do not take the combusion motor apart. There is a preload on the bearing/bushings. Oil them with sythetic oil. The packing material has dried out. It is like a spongy material if its a fasco 80p20001. Custom part number. The fan assemblly is 142 $ an make surethe housing is the same. My had a sensor port at exhaut side. Not sure what the port is for. Could be blocked. Used the oid housing. The motor can bee taken apart but its tricky. The cooling fan is a tolerance fit and id very hard tomget back on. The combustion fan comes off with a neat little trick. Fan blade facing up, place the motor on a towel foled twice (four layers) and strike the shaft with a drift smaller than the shaft. Clean the shaft first. The fan bounces off, multiple hits required. Use a small hammer, not a sledgle or a framing hammer.

Ian435 said:

Do not take the combusion motor apart. There is a preload on the bearing/bushings. Oil them with sythetic oil. The packing material has dried out. It is like a spongy material if its a fasco 80p20001. Custom part number. The fan assemblly is 142 $ an make surethe housing is the same. My had a sensor port at exhaut side. Not sure what the port is for. Could be blocked. Used the oid housing. The motor can bee taken apart but its tricky. The cooling fan is a tolerance fit and id very hard tomget back on. The combustion fan comes off with a neat little trick. Fan blade facing up, place the motor on a towel foled twice (four layers) and strike the shaft with a drift smaller than the shaft. Clean the shaft first. The fan bounces off, multiple hits required. Use a small hammer, not a sledgle or a framing hammer.

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Is that really a fix or just buying time?

Replacing just the blower motor would be a fix, as would oiling a dry bearing if the bearing has oil ports you can access, as would replacing the blower motor/ mounting plate/ impeller assembly.

It's your choice.

I do not know if you can get oil into that assembly but if you can that would be the cheapest route.

Took it a apart to buy myself time. Thats why i recomended not taking it apart. It is buying me time. Three to four weeks initially for the new motor. Its is in my basement so a little noise is better than no fan. RecommenD drilling a oil hole in containment housing for oiling the bottom bearing could be tricky but is possible. A small hole for a precision oiler. it can be done because i now know the breakdown of the motor.

I will have a spare combustion fan that has been glass beaded so i can swap them out.


By the way, autorain is exspensive. Got my fan cheapest at the dealer, i was shocked. 142$ but the housing was a little different. Just swapped motors.

As far as the compressed fiberglass gasket. Make the out of header gasket. They will never break. A sheet is 15 dollars for 12. X 18.

Ian435 said:

Took it a apart to buy myself time. Thats why i recomended not taking it apart. It is buying me time. Three to four weeks initially for the new motor. Its is in my basement so a little noise is better than no fan. RecommenD drilling a oil hole in containment housing for oiling the bottom bearing could be tricky but is possible. A small hole for a precision oiler. it can be done because i now know the breakdown of the motor.

I will have a spare combustion fan that has been glass beaded so i can swap them out.


By the way, autorain is exspensive. Got my fan cheapest at the dealer, i was shocked. 142$ but the housing was a little different. Just swapped motors.

As far as the compressed fiberglass gasket. Make the out of header gasket. They will never break. A sheet is 15 dollars for 12. X 18.

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I like the idea of using header gasket for the motor. It will not rip apart like the OEM

High temp silcone is an option. Put some on while waiting forte second fan. Bought loctite high tem, red and sold at local heating supply stores. Good in a pinch. Good to 600 f.

High temp silcone is an option. Put some on while waiting forte second fan. Bought loctite high tem, red and sold at local heating supply stores. Good in a pinch. Good to 600 f.

The growling noise could be the versa grate. A cam in basket deign that does need grease or anti sieze. It move the burn grate so the pellets fall evenly.

I have the prescot exl and from time to time the auger jams up with powder from the bottom of bags. That sucks. But knw i notice a high pitched sqealing from the auger system. I think the end bushing might have dust in them??

There are bushings at each end of the Versa-grate rod that need lubing - one at the rear, which can been seen, and one under the cover at the front, where the ignitor lives. While I'm in there, I clean out the housing around the ignitor. (On my Afton Bay.)