We just had our Isle Royale Wood Stove installed Friday. We did two break in fires per a video we got. Wood seems to be good quality, dry & split. Once the fire is established, our Primary Air Lever is slid to the Right for a low fire. The problem is, when we bought this, we were told by the store and all research we did ourselves indicated that we could get by for close to 8 hours without refilling it with wood. But we are filling it every 3-4 hours. What are we doing wrong? The second question is that the store told us they'd be surprised if we'd be able to sit in our great room (where it is) without sweating, and we are finding the opposite. All the heat is rising to the loft/second floor and there is a noticeable chill as soon as you back away from the stove 3 feet. That said, we are installing a ceiling fan in the loft area in hopes it will push the heat back down, but we are concerned that the area where the stove sits is not warm enough to take off the chill. This is a 2009 model, but brand new. It is installed in front of a zero clearance fireplace in the great room. Can attach photo if needed. Any help is appreciated. Spent 7k on this, plus had to extend the hearth ourselves and still have to close in the back and we had to buy our propane tank for 3k because we wouldn't meet minimum requirements. We were pretty much guaranteed we'd be able to use this as our primary heat source and are really disappointed. Hopefully we are doing something wrong. Thanks.
Quadra Fire Isle Royale Burn Time
- Thread starter kmindcl
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northwinds
Minister of Fire
kmindcl said:
Let me ask a few questions. A few things aren't adding up, so I think you can assume that you will be able to fix the underperforming stove. You should
not be able to exhaust your fuel in 3 to 4 hours with the primary at low.
Do you have a stovetop thermometer? If not, you should get one, so that we can talk about what temperatures the stove is reaching. If you have one,
what is the stovetop temperature when you start dialing the primary air to the right. Also, are you using the start-up air? (the knob that pushes in and
out to the far right of the stove). Are you sure it's closed? That would be an easy explanation for burning up the wood so fast and having all the heat leave
through your chimney without heating your house.
What kind of wood are you using? Is the fire catching easily in the beginning. What happens when you start to close off the primary air? Is your stove
window staying clean? Do you see dark smoke coming out of the chimney when the fire has settled in to its main stage? Do your secondary burn tubes
light off when you start closing off the air? How long do they stay lit?
What is your chimney set-up? How many feet up and with what bends/turns? How many square feet are you trying to heat?
A stove cycle varies over an eight to ten hour period. When the Isle Royale is running properly, fully loaded, it will run several hours in the 550 to
650 range, and then it will start dropping off. By eight hours, the stovetop may only be 200 or so with plenty of coals inside for a re-start.
Others will chime in. The board will get it figured out. No need to worry. I heat 2300 feet with much colder temperatures than you.
Do you have a stovetop thermometer? YES
What is the stovetop temperature when you start dialing the primary air to the right. THE MAX WE'VE SEEN THE STOVE (ONLY HAD IT 3 DAYS) IS 450 (burn zone). RIGHT NOW, IT'S AT 275 (just over creosote) AND PRIMARY IS ALMOST FULLY RIGHT.
Also, are you using the start-up air? (the knob that pushes in and out to the far right of the stove). YES
Are you sure it’s closed? IT IS PULLED OUT, I PULL UNTIL A LITTLE RESISTANCE, THEN IF I LET GO, I CAN SEE IT MOVE IN SLIGHTLY TO A STOP POINT.
What kind of wood are you using? Is the fire catching easily in the beginning? DRY, FIRST 2 DAYS WAS SPLIT FROM LAST WINTER. SOME PINE, OAK, TRIED ONE PIECE OF SPLIT LOCUST WITH OAK, MIXED. NO BARK, NO ROUND LOGS
What happens when you start to close off the primary air? FLAME KIND OF DANCES
Is your stove window staying clean? NO. IT GETS BLACK VERY QUICKLY
Do you see dark smoke coming out of the chimney when the fire has settled in to its main stage? NO. WE SEE SOME LIGHT GRAY SMOKE FROM CHIMNEY WHEN WE RELOAD THOUGH, BUT NOTHING ONCE IT'S BURNING.
Do your secondary burn tubes light off when you start closing off the air? How long do they stay lit? NEED GUIDANCE HERE. ASSUMING THOSE ARE RELATED TO THE GOLD HANDLE ON UPPER RIGHT OF STOVE?
What is your chimney set-up? WAS A ZERO CLEARANCE FP WITH A FRAMED BOX AND FAKE STONE. WOODSTOVE INSTALLER PUT A PIPE (KIND OF LIKE DRYER VENT) IN IT AND A NEW CHIMNEY CAP. How many feet up and with what bends/turns? I'D SAY TOP OF CHIMNEY CAP 22-25FT HIGH.
How many square feet are you trying to heat? 2664 SF TOTAL MAIN AND LOFT AREA. FIRST FLOOR IS AROUND 1500SF WHICH IS AN OPEN FLOOR PLAN WITH VAULTED GREAT ROOM, KITCHEN, DINING ROOM, OFFICE (WE'LL USE SPACE HEATER) AND MASTER BED AND BATH (DON'T EXPECT HEAT TO GET THERE). IT OPENS TO LOFT AREA OF 1100 SF WHICH IS A CATWALK JOINING TWO BEDS AND A BATH . WE HAVE AN 'UNFINISHED" BASEMENT WITH A QUADRAFIRE MOUNT VERNON PELLET STOVE BUT DON'T USE IT UNLESS WORKING DOWN THERE.
OTHER INFO: WE ARE INSTALLING A CEILING FAN IN THE LOFT TO TRY AND PUSH THE HEAT BACK DOWN. WE DON'T UNDERSTAND WHY THERE'S NO HEAT DIRECTLY IN FRONT OF THE STOVE AREA. ALSO, HAVING TO EMPTY ASH PAN DAILY IF NOT 2X DAY. PHOTO ATTACHED. THANKS SO MUCH FOR ANY HELP!
What is the stovetop temperature when you start dialing the primary air to the right. THE MAX WE'VE SEEN THE STOVE (ONLY HAD IT 3 DAYS) IS 450 (burn zone). RIGHT NOW, IT'S AT 275 (just over creosote) AND PRIMARY IS ALMOST FULLY RIGHT.
Also, are you using the start-up air? (the knob that pushes in and out to the far right of the stove). YES
Are you sure it’s closed? IT IS PULLED OUT, I PULL UNTIL A LITTLE RESISTANCE, THEN IF I LET GO, I CAN SEE IT MOVE IN SLIGHTLY TO A STOP POINT.
What kind of wood are you using? Is the fire catching easily in the beginning? DRY, FIRST 2 DAYS WAS SPLIT FROM LAST WINTER. SOME PINE, OAK, TRIED ONE PIECE OF SPLIT LOCUST WITH OAK, MIXED. NO BARK, NO ROUND LOGS
What happens when you start to close off the primary air? FLAME KIND OF DANCES
Is your stove window staying clean? NO. IT GETS BLACK VERY QUICKLY
Do you see dark smoke coming out of the chimney when the fire has settled in to its main stage? NO. WE SEE SOME LIGHT GRAY SMOKE FROM CHIMNEY WHEN WE RELOAD THOUGH, BUT NOTHING ONCE IT'S BURNING.
Do your secondary burn tubes light off when you start closing off the air? How long do they stay lit? NEED GUIDANCE HERE. ASSUMING THOSE ARE RELATED TO THE GOLD HANDLE ON UPPER RIGHT OF STOVE?
What is your chimney set-up? WAS A ZERO CLEARANCE FP WITH A FRAMED BOX AND FAKE STONE. WOODSTOVE INSTALLER PUT A PIPE (KIND OF LIKE DRYER VENT) IN IT AND A NEW CHIMNEY CAP. How many feet up and with what bends/turns? I'D SAY TOP OF CHIMNEY CAP 22-25FT HIGH.
How many square feet are you trying to heat? 2664 SF TOTAL MAIN AND LOFT AREA. FIRST FLOOR IS AROUND 1500SF WHICH IS AN OPEN FLOOR PLAN WITH VAULTED GREAT ROOM, KITCHEN, DINING ROOM, OFFICE (WE'LL USE SPACE HEATER) AND MASTER BED AND BATH (DON'T EXPECT HEAT TO GET THERE). IT OPENS TO LOFT AREA OF 1100 SF WHICH IS A CATWALK JOINING TWO BEDS AND A BATH . WE HAVE AN 'UNFINISHED" BASEMENT WITH A QUADRAFIRE MOUNT VERNON PELLET STOVE BUT DON'T USE IT UNLESS WORKING DOWN THERE.
OTHER INFO: WE ARE INSTALLING A CEILING FAN IN THE LOFT TO TRY AND PUSH THE HEAT BACK DOWN. WE DON'T UNDERSTAND WHY THERE'S NO HEAT DIRECTLY IN FRONT OF THE STOVE AREA. ALSO, HAVING TO EMPTY ASH PAN DAILY IF NOT 2X DAY. PHOTO ATTACHED. THANKS SO MUCH FOR ANY HELP!
Okay - 275F stove top ain't burning ANYWHERE near where you should be . 450F is even too low for the first half of the burn. You should be seeing 600+ after about 35-45 minutes.
Black glass = incomplete burn. This is most likely caused by your low burn temps, but be aware, wood that is not seasoned properly can cause this as well.
The heat you are generating is going up. Get it down (your ceiling fan will be a big help). Also, are you running the blower? (you shouldn't be at the temps you are running, but as you get that corrected, the blower may be of help as well).
And don't take this wrong, but - there is no fricken way that you can run the stove top temps at the temps you are reporting and burning a load of wood in 3 hours. That box is 3 cubic ft. Something simply doesn't add up. (Again, don't take this wrong - I think we may just need some clarification). Stick with us, we can make this work. ;-)
Give us more detail. How long has your wood been SPLIT and stacked?
I think we need to talk about your startup process as well. Give us a run down from cold stove startup.
Black glass = incomplete burn. This is most likely caused by your low burn temps, but be aware, wood that is not seasoned properly can cause this as well.
The heat you are generating is going up. Get it down (your ceiling fan will be a big help). Also, are you running the blower? (you shouldn't be at the temps you are running, but as you get that corrected, the blower may be of help as well).
And don't take this wrong, but - there is no fricken way that you can run the stove top temps at the temps you are reporting and burning a load of wood in 3 hours. That box is 3 cubic ft. Something simply doesn't add up. (Again, don't take this wrong - I think we may just need some clarification). Stick with us, we can make this work. ;-)
Give us more detail. How long has your wood been SPLIT and stacked?
I think we need to talk about your startup process as well. Give us a run down from cold stove startup.
Hi JAGS. Thanks for the response. We did have a blower installed and used it the first 2 nights, but last night we kept it off thinking it was cooling the air. It's off right now. We are reloading every 3-4 hours and emptying the ash pan 1-2x a day (does that indicate anything I wonder?). Now, when I say full, I mean we are putting as much wood as we can without touching the bricks, the glass or that top rack (baffle? attached to the handle on the right). That being said, we don't really know what that handle does other than allowing filling. Installer just told us to flip it down when loading and gave us a basic brochure. Maybe that is our problem??? What position should that be in? Currently handle is to the front so rack is flat.
As for wood, what we've burned so far is from last winter, so I would say seasoned. We are trying to track down a moisture meter, but nobody local carries one. Because we decided on this in late summer, the rest of our 7 cords were standing dead timber, split within last few months, so dry, but nowhere near seasoned. We haven't used any yet.
We did two break in fires and third fire has been maintained, so of three cold start fires here's a basic rundown:
Break-ins - we followed a video, used paper and kindling, waved lit paper around firebox to warm it up. knobs were in and almost left. after burn going, about 10-15mins, knob out to close and primary center. We let those burn in cool and repeated.
Current fire: pretty much the same, but we added wood and kept burning.
Couple things I forgot to mention, is ONE - that it is vented back then elbowed up to chimney. TWO - I hear a whistling sort of sound in the back during burns. THREE - today is going up to 55, so I will shut it down, but temps ranged 29-44 degrees this weekend. I was told not to burn in over 50 degrees b/c of draft differentiation.
HOpe this info helps.
Thanks.
As for wood, what we've burned so far is from last winter, so I would say seasoned. We are trying to track down a moisture meter, but nobody local carries one. Because we decided on this in late summer, the rest of our 7 cords were standing dead timber, split within last few months, so dry, but nowhere near seasoned. We haven't used any yet.
We did two break in fires and third fire has been maintained, so of three cold start fires here's a basic rundown:
Break-ins - we followed a video, used paper and kindling, waved lit paper around firebox to warm it up. knobs were in and almost left. after burn going, about 10-15mins, knob out to close and primary center. We let those burn in cool and repeated.
Current fire: pretty much the same, but we added wood and kept burning.
Couple things I forgot to mention, is ONE - that it is vented back then elbowed up to chimney. TWO - I hear a whistling sort of sound in the back during burns. THREE - today is going up to 55, so I will shut it down, but temps ranged 29-44 degrees this weekend. I was told not to burn in over 50 degrees b/c of draft differentiation.
HOpe this info helps.
Thanks.
Okay - the whistling is telling me that you are starving it for air causing an air rush into the tiny area that is left.
You should not have been able to burn enough wood in 3 days of 24/7 fires to be concerned with ash.
How about we start at the beginning? You have done the break in fires, and we can consider that done.
Now, on to real fires. Let it be known that this stove will burn better with an inch base of ash on the bed of the firebox. Allow at least that much ash to build up. Second, don't be afraid to load this stove to the gills. It is very controllable. BE AWARE that some people have smacked the fiber board above the re-burn tubes and have damaged it. Don't do that. Don't worry about wood touching the firebrick, just don't abuse it.
I will lay out my cold start - you may want to try this (this is from the front doors, not the top loader). By the way, the handle on the right side towards the top is the handle that flips the reburn tubes for top loading. This should be in the position that the plate/tubes are flat, not up and down.
Take a small diameter, short piece of wood and lay this N-S on the far right side of the fire box. Next, take smaller pieces (kindling) and lean up on the first piece that you put in creating an air gap going front to back under the kindling. Next, load that sucker with your splits. LOAD IT UP. Don't force anything, but fill that sucker.
Place your newspaper, fire starter, road flare (joking) under the teepee part of the kindling and light. I personally use a chunk of firestarter. Works every time. Light fire starter.
Push the lever for the startup air to the back of the stove (open). Your primary air should be all the way to the left (open). Twiddle your thumbs for 15 minutes. The stove should be pretty active at this point. If you stove has the ACC it will automagicaly close the startup air, if not, pull the lever full forward (closed). You got about 15-20 more minutes of thumb twiddleing to do. Watch the stove top thermo. When you hit 600F, close primary air to 50%. When you hit 650F close primary to about 5-10% open (slam the lever all the way to the right, then reopen about 1/2") Let the fire settle in. You may have to adjust the primary to suit your install.
Watch the magic. Check outside pipe emissions for clean burn. No smoke and heat waves is all that you will see.
Keep stove top south of 750F. This is done by adjusting the primary air. At this point, you will notice the female members of the house taking off their sweaters and sweat shirts (and if you have any teen age daughters, their winter coat).
NOTE: I believe that this is my longest post EVER.
You should not have been able to burn enough wood in 3 days of 24/7 fires to be concerned with ash.
How about we start at the beginning? You have done the break in fires, and we can consider that done.
Now, on to real fires. Let it be known that this stove will burn better with an inch base of ash on the bed of the firebox. Allow at least that much ash to build up. Second, don't be afraid to load this stove to the gills. It is very controllable. BE AWARE that some people have smacked the fiber board above the re-burn tubes and have damaged it. Don't do that. Don't worry about wood touching the firebrick, just don't abuse it.
I will lay out my cold start - you may want to try this (this is from the front doors, not the top loader). By the way, the handle on the right side towards the top is the handle that flips the reburn tubes for top loading. This should be in the position that the plate/tubes are flat, not up and down.
Take a small diameter, short piece of wood and lay this N-S on the far right side of the fire box. Next, take smaller pieces (kindling) and lean up on the first piece that you put in creating an air gap going front to back under the kindling. Next, load that sucker with your splits. LOAD IT UP. Don't force anything, but fill that sucker.
Place your newspaper, fire starter, road flare (joking) under the teepee part of the kindling and light. I personally use a chunk of firestarter. Works every time. Light fire starter.
Push the lever for the startup air to the back of the stove (open). Your primary air should be all the way to the left (open). Twiddle your thumbs for 15 minutes. The stove should be pretty active at this point. If you stove has the ACC it will automagicaly close the startup air, if not, pull the lever full forward (closed). You got about 15-20 more minutes of thumb twiddleing to do. Watch the stove top thermo. When you hit 600F, close primary air to 50%. When you hit 650F close primary to about 5-10% open (slam the lever all the way to the right, then reopen about 1/2") Let the fire settle in. You may have to adjust the primary to suit your install.
Watch the magic. Check outside pipe emissions for clean burn. No smoke and heat waves is all that you will see.
Keep stove top south of 750F. This is done by adjusting the primary air. At this point, you will notice the female members of the house taking off their sweaters and sweat shirts (and if you have any teen age daughters, their winter coat).
NOTE: I believe that this is my longest post EVER.
northwinds
Minister of Fire
And every stove setup has its own sweetspot, depending on your draft/chimney. You want to slow the fire down after getting
up to 550-600 and then stabilize it. If your active flame goes out and your temps drop, give it some more air. Until the weather
gets colder, my sweet spot is at about 20% open/80% closed. Yours will vary depending upon your draft (which improves when
the weather turns colder) and perhaps the quality of your wood (moisture level).
Until your stovetop temps get above 550, your stove won't really burn all that efficiently. Jags is the master of the
Isle Royale. You're in good hands.
Also, if you could put up a pic of your setup, that might be helpful. It didn't come through with your post. Your reference
to a dryer vent type pipe with a chimney cap has me puzzled.
up to 550-600 and then stabilize it. If your active flame goes out and your temps drop, give it some more air. Until the weather
gets colder, my sweet spot is at about 20% open/80% closed. Yours will vary depending upon your draft (which improves when
the weather turns colder) and perhaps the quality of your wood (moisture level).
Until your stovetop temps get above 550, your stove won't really burn all that efficiently. Jags is the master of the
Isle Royale. You're in good hands.
Also, if you could put up a pic of your setup, that might be helpful. It didn't come through with your post. Your reference
to a dryer vent type pipe with a chimney cap has me puzzled.
northwinds
Minister of Fire
northwinds
Minister of Fire
Jags said:
That's what I was kinda wondering about since he mentioned a zero clearance fireplace before the Isle Royale. Prefab or masonry chimney?
You've already gotten the word from the guys who helped me with mine last year, but I should mention that I loaded my stove up at 8:50 yesterday evening, closed it down when it was at about 550, and all I needed to restart this morning was a few pieces of kindling on my coals. That was at 5:30.
Thanks for the help. I'll probably be back here tomorrow for more, but for today I shut it down (Don't tell my husband) and turned on the furnace. Tomorrow is supposed to be 62 degrees, so I'll try Jag's start up technique tomorrow evening when the temp drops and hope for a change. I'm really hoping it's not the wood, because there's not a lick of seasoned wood for sale in the County, so we'll have to use what we've got.
I did try to post a photo, but it was too large. I'll tinker with it tomorrow and post it. Wish me luck.
I did try to post a photo, but it was too large. I'll tinker with it tomorrow and post it. Wish me luck.
maxed_out
New Member
jags is "twiddle your thumbs" codeword for go get yourself another brewski?
seriously thats a great heater and in time you'll get it. Overnight burns are a piece of cake. We dont empty ashes for a couple of days...just use a shovel straight out of the stove. When things get really cranking we can shovel out lots of ashes and coals (Leaving a pile of coals) to re-start.
seriously thats a great heater and in time you'll get it. Overnight burns are a piece of cake. We dont empty ashes for a couple of days...just use a shovel straight out of the stove. When things get really cranking we can shovel out lots of ashes and coals (Leaving a pile of coals) to re-start.
chadihman
Member
I also purchased a new Isle Royale wood stove in august 2011 and just started using it a couple of weeks ago. I burned a couple of small fires in it to start then it got really cold one night so I loaded it up. I left the start up control open until the fire was rolling well and then closed the start up control and left the stove temp on top of the stove reach 400 deg. F and then slid the primary control all the way to the right. I watched the fire slowly continue to grow and after about an hour or so the temp had reached 750 deg. This had me a little concerned so I stayed up with the stove most of the night. The temp got to a little over 750 deg and the fire only lasted for five hours before lowering to 300 deg with hot coals. I'm picky about my firewood and test the moisture before burning. I burn a mixture of oak, cherry, hickory and locust that tests between 15 and 20 percent moisture. I have a twenty foot masonry chimney with a solid stainless liner. I expected this stove to have a longer burn time and not such a high worry some temp. I told my dealer about my problem and they sent a tech out to check all of my door gaskets and he said that the seals were all good and he thought that I had a strong draft and I should install a stove pipe damper. I installed a pipe damper one foot above the stove. I tested again with a full load of wood and the stove still reached 750 deg with the damper closed and all air controls closed. The damper did not make much of a difference if any. I do notice that the fire responds to opening the start-up control and the primary control so I know they are working.I also leave about one to two inches of ash in the stove. Is this just the way this stove is or is there a problem? I was wandering if some adjustment could be made to the primary air control. I would really like to dial the fire down a some. I would be happy with a high temp of about 450 deg and a burn time of at least eight hours. I hope you get yours figured out and would love to know what fixes yours.
northwinds
Minister of Fire
There have been a couple of others who have complained on this board about overdraft who also happen to have
this stove. I don't think it's normal that you can't keep your stove under 750 degrees, and that would make me
nervous also. That's not normal. You have a problem, assuming that your temps are accurate.
The question is what's causing the overdraft. This isn't an area of knowledge for me because, if anything, my chimney
has a ittle less draft than I would like for the Isle Royale. I'm not going to complain because it's fairly easy for me to
control with the primary control. Shutting down the primary at 400 and having the stovetop temps shoot to 750
would be alarming. My stove is cruising along at 550 with the air at 80% on a wet, cool morning.
How tall is your chimney? Straight up?
this stove. I don't think it's normal that you can't keep your stove under 750 degrees, and that would make me
nervous also. That's not normal. You have a problem, assuming that your temps are accurate.
The question is what's causing the overdraft. This isn't an area of knowledge for me because, if anything, my chimney
has a ittle less draft than I would like for the Isle Royale. I'm not going to complain because it's fairly easy for me to
control with the primary control. Shutting down the primary at 400 and having the stovetop temps shoot to 750
would be alarming. My stove is cruising along at 550 with the air at 80% on a wet, cool morning.
How tall is your chimney? Straight up?
shawneyboy
Minister of Fire
I have to wonder if it is an overdraft or an out gas issue. Perhaps you are leaving the primary open to long to as you said get the fire rolling. You may just need to close down the primary sooner so that the wood is out gassing slower. Just another thing to try.
Shawn
Shawn
chadihman
Member
Thanks for the reply. I also test the top of the stove with a temp gun and confirmed that the stove top thermometer is accurate. The stove pipe extends straight up two feet and then has one 90 deg elbow and then through the wall into my stainless liner that goes to another 90 and then straight up 20 ft. To a cap on top that is 4 ft above the peak of the house. I only let the start up control on for about 5 min or less and let the stove reach 400 deg with the primary air open all the way. I like to get the stove temp to 400 deg before shutting it down. This is the temp were the gas starts to burn nicely leaving no smoke out of the chimney. I forgot to mention that all the pipe is six inch.
northwinds
Minister of Fire
Something isn't right. A twenty foot chimney after the initial bend shouldn't create that kind of draft. I know your
tech said that there is no leak, but have you done the dollar bill test around the doors?
If this is a new stove, I would let the dealer continue to know that you're continuing to have problems controlling the
stove, even with the pipe damper. 750 isn't the end of the world for the Isle Royale. But you shouldn't have to shut
off all of the primary air and use a damper at 400 degrees to get there.
Take a look at this thread which discusses this same issue on another user's Isle Royale. It might give you some ideas.
Ignore the comments about my 30 foot chimney. That was in my old house. My present chimney has more bends and
is shorter.
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/29303/
tech said that there is no leak, but have you done the dollar bill test around the doors?
If this is a new stove, I would let the dealer continue to know that you're continuing to have problems controlling the
stove, even with the pipe damper. 750 isn't the end of the world for the Isle Royale. But you shouldn't have to shut
off all of the primary air and use a damper at 400 degrees to get there.
Take a look at this thread which discusses this same issue on another user's Isle Royale. It might give you some ideas.
Ignore the comments about my 30 foot chimney. That was in my old house. My present chimney has more bends and
is shorter.
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/29303/
If OP is original poster, I'm still in! It was 70 degrees yesterday and will be 64 today, but supposed to snow for next 3 days, so I'm starting the fire tonight. Meanwhile, I cleaned the stove, cleaned the glass and pulled the best wood I could find. Still trying to track done a moisture meter for the wood, but the wood is what it is for this year. Also researching how to not get dust/ashes all over my house and humidifiers/air purifiers. Determined to make this work. Husband comes home tomorrow night and I"m hoping for him to come in and say "It's too hot in here
". Stick with me...I'll be back as soon as I can light it. Unless you think it's okay to light at 64 outside temp?? I was told no.
". Stick with me...I'll be back as soon as I can light it. Unless you think it's okay to light at 64 outside temp?? I was told no.
chadihman
Member
Thanks for all the help! I did the dollar bill test and seals are good. I called the dealer and they again wont call me back. I just ordered a manometer to test my draft. The stove manual states that you need -.04 inch W.C.on low burn and -.10 inch W.C. on high burn. What can be done if I have to much draft? I'll keep you posted on the draft after I get my manometer.
kmindcl said:
Not unless you want to wilt your house plants - and quit cleaning that stove. ;-) You really do want a bed of ash in the firebox.
chadihman said:
Chadihman - in honor of not getting this thread all wonky with different problems/solutions, you may want to start a new thread. This thread being quite specific to Isle Royale operation is a bit different than a draft issue. With a new thread, draft can be discussed across many stoves and you might get a broader audience/help. Just my opinion.
Don't know what to say..... I printed out Jag's directions and followed to a tee, except 2 and 1/2 hours after starting, my stove still hasn't reached 600. If it ever does, I"m going to have to add wood b/c, yes, believe it or not....it's dwindling. Is it my wood? Still hear the whistling somewhere in the back. Outside temp is 48, going down to 34 tonight.
Jags, one question on your great directions I have is do I shut the door immediately after I light it?
Putting the little one to bed then gonna plop my butt down near that stove 'til I figure it out
Jags, one question on your great directions I have is do I shut the door immediately after I light it?
Putting the little one to bed then gonna plop my butt down near that stove 'til I figure it out
northwinds
Minister of Fire
kmindcl said:Don't know what to say..... I printed out Jag's directions and followed to a tee, except 2 and 1/2 hours after starting, my stove still hasn't reached 600. If it ever does, I"m going to have to add wood b/c, yes, believe it or not....it's dwindling. Is it my wood? Still hear the whistling somewhere in the back. Outside temp is 48, going down to 34 tonight.
Jags, one question on your great directions I have is do I shut the door immediately after I light it?
Putting the little one to bed then gonna plop my butt down near that stove 'til I figure it out
I think we need pics.
With good wood, you can shut the door immediately after lighting. It takes me 20-40 minutes to hit 600 degrees depending
on what type of wood I'm using. How high did your temps get?
As I understand it, your primary air is wide open and your temps never reach 600 after 2 1/2 hours. That sounds like unseasoned wood
or poor draft. When you open the doors during the burn cycle, can you hear the wood sizzling or see drops of moisture coming out the
ends of the wood?
Pics would really help. Pics of your setup. Pics of what your firebox looks like after 30 minutes. If you can't resize the pics, you can email
one of the moderators for help in resizing.
The whole dryer vent looking chimney in front of a zero clearance fireplace begs for a photo. You paid 7k, so the installation should be good,
but that description nags at me.
This is my firebox after an hour. And another photo showing where my stovetop thermometer is placed.
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