Hi guys, I have regular wood burning half circle, brick fireplace(non-insert) with a chimney that runs partially(~30%) through the inside of the house. The home is about 25 years old and when I looked inside the flu, there isn't a steel liner nor is there a flat concrete surface. It appears to be bricks that are stacked on their thin side, thus exposing the three holes of each brick. I have read that this can be considered a fire hazard because particles can be caught within these holes, which built up over time can become combustible.
Chimney Liner required?
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doesnt look good.. thoes holes are about the worst setup you could have with brick lining.. better check into a stainless liner
Are there heat intakes and output grilles on the sides of the fireplace? I'm wondering what the slots are for below these holes.
woodchip
Minister of Fire
Welcome to the forum!
Looking at the picture, I suspect they are slotted bricks, we used to get those here for internal partition walls in some houses.
They would make very good creosote traps in a chimney, and increase the possibility of chimney fires.
Not sure why they would be fitted like that in a flue on the first place.
Has anybody to your knowledge ever had a fire in the fireplace?
In any case, bricks on their side will make a very thin flue even if they had no holed/slots in them.
Just my thoughts, hope they don't sound too negative.
I reckon a new steel liner is the way to go.
Looking at the picture, I suspect they are slotted bricks, we used to get those here for internal partition walls in some houses.
They would make very good creosote traps in a chimney, and increase the possibility of chimney fires.
Not sure why they would be fitted like that in a flue on the first place.
Has anybody to your knowledge ever had a fire in the fireplace?
In any case, bricks on their side will make a very thin flue even if they had no holed/slots in them.
Just my thoughts, hope they don't sound too negative.
I reckon a new steel liner is the way to go.
Definitely. In the minimum if the intent is to keep this as a fireplace I would mortar them over. If the intent is to install an insert, than an appropriately sized stainless liner would be advisable.
If you want to keep the wood burning fireplace, a liner would do no good. The liner would stop at the bottom of the flue, what you are looking at is the smoke chamber. Behind the holes in the brick you will find either more bricks or most likely concrete block. The bricks in the smoke chamber should be parged smooth, filling the holes and smoothing out the smoke chamber which improves draft and decreases the build-up of creosote. Check this product out. http://www.chambertech2000.com/
Thanks for all the responses. I have been using this fireplace for approximately a year, however, lately I've noticed it being very 'smoky' and also drafting quite strangely.
From the responses, it seems that I might not need a liner but will need to to do some work to the smoke chamber? If i were to insert a liner as well, what kind of product should I be looking for? I apologize for my ignorance here!
thanks!
From the responses, it seems that I might not need a liner but will need to to do some work to the smoke chamber? If i were to insert a liner as well, what kind of product should I be looking for? I apologize for my ignorance here!
thanks!
I see a lot of 10"round SS rigid liners, but the most common is heavy wall rectangle flex liner. Both will be pretty expensive. Unless you really like the open fire, I would look into an insert with a liner, you can still see the fire, but it heats your home as well. The 6" liner is cheaper and you can usually get a good deal when you buy an insert and liner from the same place.RickyTheStick said:
I was contemplating an insert for this room, but the room that the fire place is located in only about 275 square feet, with only one door for access. I fear that even the smallest insert will provide too much heat.
I looked at smaller Regency and VC inserts last week at a local shop and I was quoted between $5K to $8K(CAD) for setups which would include 6" liners and install costs. Wouldn't a simple steel liner be a fraction of this price?
I looked at smaller Regency and VC inserts last week at a local shop and I was quoted between $5K to $8K(CAD) for setups which would include 6" liners and install costs. Wouldn't a simple steel liner be a fraction of this price?
Seems a bit high. Maybe ask a certified chimney sweep about doing the installation of the liner?
So I had an 'expert' come by last night, and they said that because the smoke chamber's diameter is larger than the flue's, that I will not be able to install a liner here. Basically stating that my only option is an insert. Does this makes sense to anybody? I'm thinking a need a second persons a opinion.
BrowningBAR
Minister of Fire
RickyTheStick said:
This doesn't make any sense to me since an insert should still have a liner.
Because I have open brick fireplace, he said that there would be nowhere to attached the 'end' of the liner to. If I installed a insert, of course there would be a standard 6 inch a liner.
BrowningBAR
Minister of Fire
RickyTheStick said:
That makes even less sense. The liner will attach to single wall pipe, or double wall pipe, or a Tee which then connects to the stove. Or the liner itself connects to the stove.
Dakotas Dad
Minister of Fire
I *think* he is talking about just putting in some kind of liner.. no stove at all.. just a liner..?
No, this doesn't make sense. It is very common to reline a fireplace flue. You want to drop a round liner down and it would be sealed at the top of the smoke chamber at the throat of the fireplace. They make a plate to seal around the liner, if a plate can't be used for some reason, it can be sealed with a product called Chamber Tech 2000. This product can be thrown like a snowball, then smoothed with a broom. It sounds like the "expert" might not have enough experience.
berlin
New Member
Your smoke chamber looks to be in good shape. you don't need a stainless liner, you have a clay liner currently. If you don't like the cores of the brick showing, parge it with mortar.
Is there a big difference between Chamber Tech 2000 and regular cement? Also, is this something that can be applied easily, I assume I would need to remove the damper? How difficult is that?
thanks for all the help guys, obviously I'm quite clueless
thanks for all the help guys, obviously I'm quite clueless
It is very different, it is made to withstand the heat and sticks very well! It will go on just like mortar, but you can throw it like a baseball up in the top were you can't reach. The damper should just have a cotter pin holding it in, remove the pin and lift it out.RickyTheStick said:
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