MS290 Question - Chain Not Turning Question

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TomR

TomR

New Member
Nov 12, 2011
56
Central CT
I want to preface this by saying that I am very new at wood cutting and the MS290 is the first chainsaw I have ever owned - just purchased last weekend. I have been doing a lot of cutting with it this week and for the most part the saw works well. However, when I get into a 'big' piece of wood there are times when the chain will stop turning. I don't think it's a case of the bar/chain getting pinched because the log is already flat and down on the ground. The bar/chain oil is topped off so it's not an oil issue. Right before it happens I can really tell that the machine is struggling I can here it. If I sense that the chain is about to stop turning I pull up a little and it kicks in again full speed then I am able to cut for another 5-10 seconds before the chain stops again. Smaller logs are no problem it's just the big ones that are giving me trouble. The type of wood being cut is black walnut and birch - it is happening with both types of wood. I thought that perhaps the chain isn't sharp enough but the dust is still in pretty big flakes which I understand is an indication that the chain is 'sharp enough'...any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks folks. Tom
 
I have the same saw. I have had it happen quite a few times on large rounds when the bar is buried. I sharpen my chain after every day of use so a dull chain is not the problem. I think that if your putting too much pressure on the saw it will grab to much wood and will stop the chain from turning. When that happens Just lift the saw and let it get up to speed and continue. Don't let the chain be stuck too long with the throttle wide open or you could cause damage to the saw.
 
Your saw could be under powerd for the log your cutting or the saw is running to "Fat" or rich. If its to fat just turn your "h" screw to the left about a 1/16 of a turn. You may have to do that a couple times. If I could hear it then I would know for sure.
 
Thanks jacobk. What you are describing is exactly what is happening to me. This is kind of disappointing (to me) given the price of the saw - maybe I'm being too critical?

By the way I used to live in MN and miss it greatly.
 
What size bar, and what type wood?

S
 
Black Walnut & Birch. Bar is standard 16".
 
TomR said:
Black Walnut & Birch. Bar is standard 16".
Click to expand...

post 2 is your answer your running to Fat!
 
I am by no means an expert, I run a 20in bar on my 290, I don't know how big of a difference that 4in makes but I kinda think you might just be asking to much of your saw, Take your time and let the saw do the work dont force it through when its fully buried in a log
 
Kyle M said:
I am by no means an expert, I run a 20in bar on my 290, I don't know how big of a difference that 4in makes but I kinda think you might just be asking to much of your saw, Take your time and let the saw do the work dont force it through when its fully buried in a log
Click to expand...

He is running a 16inch.......Thats the right bar for that saw. Bw and birch is nothing tough.
 
I am running an 18in bar on mine. It only happens when trying to force the saw to try and make it cut faster. Just keep your chain sharp and let the saw do the work. You may need to tune the carb a little but mine was good right from the store.

I love it here in mn and would never leave although I have dreamed of moving to some where in the mountains or Alaska so the snowmobiling season was a little longer. haha
 
I have a 290 also. Sometimes the nose sprocket binds up from too much dust. I find if I take the bar off, clean it out and turn it manually a few times, it will start to turn freely and I'm back in business.
 
I'm with Jay on making sure the carb is tuned right. I've taken plenty of MS290's out of the box and gotten 'em running much stronger by leaning out the carb a tad. Dealer should be able to readjust it for you for free especially since it's new.

+ 1 on letting the saw do the work tho. A 16" bar is ideal on the 290 and unless you're pushing the saw through the wood, it should keep the chain moving.
 
smokinjay said:
Your saw could be under powerd for the log your cutting or the saw is running to "Fat" or rich. If its to fat just turn your "h" screw to the left about a 1/16 of a turn. You may have to do that a couple times. If I could hear it then I would know for sure.
Click to expand...

Wouldn't that be to the right? (clockwise, or in?)
 
maple1 said:
smokinjay said:
Your saw could be under powerd for the log your cutting or the saw is running to "Fat" or rich. If its to fat just turn your "h" screw to the left about a 1/16 of a turn. You may have to do that a couple times. If I could hear it then I would know for sure.
Click to expand...

Wouldn't that be to the right? (clockwise, or in?)
Click to expand...

Not if you reach across the saw (screwdriver points back at you) to tune as many do. You have the right idea tho, Loosening the screw will richen the mix and tightening it will lean it out.
 
MasterMech said:
maple1 said:
smokinjay said:
Your saw could be under powerd for the log your cutting or the saw is running to "Fat" or rich. If its to fat just turn your "h" screw to the left about a 1/16 of a turn. You may have to do that a couple times. If I could hear it then I would know for sure.
Click to expand...

Wouldn't that be to the right? (clockwise, or in?)
Click to expand...

Not if you reach across the saw (screwdriver points back at you) to tune as many do. You have the right idea tho, Loosening the screw will richen the mix and tightening it will lean it out.
Click to expand...

Long day yesterday. Cord split stack and on to milling.....Truth is I really dont think I just hear it. Other thing I cant see a 290 stalling that bad with a 16 inch bar, if it is not tuning its chain size and or sharpening skills. Screw driver the easiest start.

Tune by ear and your always know what route to take.



http://web.archive.org/web/20051018212959/www.madsens1.com/sawtune.htm
 
The 290's respond well to a muffler mod. Just make sure you pull the limiter tabs so you get a full range of adjustment.
 
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