Jotul Oslo owners, I need some help.

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Wallace

Member
Oct 8, 2011
67
Prescott, AZ
I am working on getting an overnight burn, I get up at 5am to put a few splits on and my glass is pretty dirty. My oak is absolutly bone dry. Am I shutting the damper to much? I have a big bed of chunky glowing coals left over that pretty much instantly lights up the splits I add to it. If you guys have any tricks or ideas, it would be appreciated.
 
If you have a big bed of coals that is an over night burn. What time do you load it before bed? Is the firebox totally full on the last load? How tall is your flue?
 
jotulguy said:
If you have a big bed of coals that is an over night burn. What time do you load it before bed? Is the firebox totally full on the last load? How tall is your flue?
.
I load it at 9pm and only put 3 medium splits in it. The box is not full. I have been burning the stove pretty much all the time and keep a bed of coals in it. I have not had a problem with the glass getting creosote on it until I leave it dampened down all night. I am happy with the burn times. Was just wondering if anyone had any tricks to keeping clean glass on an overnight burn:) my flue is 16' and I get a really good draft.
 
I only get 5-6 hours although I seem to err on the side of too open damper-wise. Something about dirty glass just irritates me. Keep in mind the absolute best wood I have to burn is tamarack (no hardwoods here). One problem with this stove: If you were overly excited and got your wood supply before buying or even picking out your stove, you most likely have a bunch of 16-18" splits. I think that, in order to optimize Oslo performance, it'd be better to have 20-22" wood to fill the firebox completely.
 
FullCompliment said:
I only get 5-6 hours although I seem to err on the side of too open damper-wise. Something about dirty glass just irritates me. Keep in mind the absolute best wood I have to burn is tamarack (no hardwoods here). One problem with this stove: If you were overly excited and got your wood supply before buying or even picking out your stove, you most likely have a bunch of 16-18" splits. I think that, in order to optimize Oslo performance, it'd be better to have 20-22" wood to fill the firebox completely.
I am definetely getting 8 hour burns...and am happy with the heat production as well. It is funny you mentioned the over excited thingonthe wood. I had my wood 2 weeks prior to putting the stove in. Most of the splits are 16-18"...my next cord is gonna be about half 15" and half 20" for east west loading:)
 
Wallace said:
jotulguy said:
If you have a big bed of coals that is an over night burn. What time do you load it before bed? Is the firebox totally full on the last load? How tall is your flue?
.
I load it at 9pm and only put 3 medium splits in it. The box is not full. I have been burning the stove pretty much all the time and keep a bed of coals in it. I have not had a problem with the glass getting creosote on it until I leave it dampened down all night. I am happy with the burn times. Was just wondering if anyone had any tricks to keeping clean glass on an overnight burn:) my flue is 16' and I get a really good draft.

Why only 3 med. splits? I don't think I've ever put only 3 splits in except in the shoulder season. Of course, this depends on your split size I suppose. My splits are big enough that I can put my whole hand around the end of the split - so, what is that 3-1/2-4" or so probably. I would guess if I were to fill up my stove for night-time overnight burn I do just that - it's probably around 5 to 6+ splits. My splits are cut 20".

Darkened glass in the morning is to be expected - it's part of the cycle of burning. When you light it up again, get a good fire going, the glass will clear off on its own.
 
Shari said:
Wallace said:
jotulguy said:
If you have a big bed of coals that is an over night burn. What time do you load it before bed? Is the firebox totally full on the last load? How tall is your flue?
.
I load it at 9pm and only put 3 medium splits in it. The box is not full. I have been burning the stove pretty much all the time and keep a bed of coals in it. I have not had a problem with the glass getting creosote on it until I leave it dampened down all night. I am happy with the burn times. Was just wondering if anyone had any tricks to keeping clean glass on an overnight burn:) my flue is 16' and I get a really good draft.

Why only 3 med. splits? I don't think I've ever put only 3 splits in except in the shoulder season. Of course, this depends on your split size I suppose. My splits are big enough that I can put my whole hand around the end of the split - so, what is that 3-1/2-4" or so probably. I would guess if I were to fill up my stove for night-time overnight burn I do just that - it's probably around 5 to 6+ splits. My splits are cut 20".

Darkened glass in the morning is to be expected - it's part of the cycle of burning. When you light it up again, get a good fire going, the glass will clear off on its own.


+1 to this.

As I tell my wife, splits like friends. Give them more company. Add more friends!
 
Shari said:
Wallace said:
jotulguy said:
If you have a big bed of coals that is an over night burn. What time do you load it before bed? Is the firebox totally full on the last load? How tall is your flue?
.
I load it at 9pm and only put 3 medium splits in it. The box is not full. I have been burning the stove pretty much all the time and keep a bed of coals in it. I have not had a problem with the glass getting creosote on it until I leave it dampened down all night. I am happy with the burn times. Was just wondering if anyone had any tricks to keeping clean glass on an overnight burn:) my flue is 16' and I get a really good draft.

Why only 3 med. splits? I don't think I've ever put only 3 splits in except in the shoulder season. Of course, this depends on your split size I suppose. My splits are big enough that I can put my whole hand around the end of the split - so, what is that 3-1/2-4" or so probably. I would guess if I were to fill up my stove for night-time overnight burn I do just that - it's probably around 5 to 6+ splits. My splits are cut 20".

Darkened glass in the morning is to be expected - it's part of the cycle of burning. When you light it up again, get a good fire going, the glass will clear off on its own.
still kinda learning the stove. I haven't put more than 3 splits in it yet. My splits are about the same size as yours in diameter. So tonight I am gonna put 4 in and see how it does. In the morning I will get a hot fire going and see if it cooks off the creosote on the glass. Thanks:)
 
Hmm never had dark glass in the morning... good coal bed pack it full. I let the splits catch and dampen down in increments. Im at just under a quarter and go to bed with mostly secondary flames. However come morning some 8 hours later i still have to kindle up the fire again before loading her up. I had one load go to 15 hours but thats once.

Load her up full and dampen down slowly or not all at once anyhow. Should be fine.

Good luck.
 
Wallace said:
Shari said:
Wallace said:
jotulguy said:
If you have a big bed of coals that is an over night burn. What time do you load it before bed? Is the firebox totally full on the last load? How tall is your flue?
.
I load it at 9pm and only put 3 medium splits in it. The box is not full. I have been burning the stove pretty much all the time and keep a bed of coals in it. I have not had a problem with the glass getting creosote on it until I leave it dampened down all night. I am happy with the burn times. Was just wondering if anyone had any tricks to keeping clean glass on an overnight burn:) my flue is 16' and I get a really good draft.

Why only 3 med. splits? I don't think I've ever put only 3 splits in except in the shoulder season. Of course, this depends on your split size I suppose. My splits are big enough that I can put my whole hand around the end of the split - so, what is that 3-1/2-4" or so probably. I would guess if I were to fill up my stove for night-time overnight burn I do just that - it's probably around 5 to 6+ splits. My splits are cut 20".

Darkened glass in the morning is to be expected - it's part of the cycle of burning. When you light it up again, get a good fire going, the glass will clear off on its own.
still kinda learning the stove. I haven't put more than 3 splits in it yet. My splits are about the same size as yours in diameter. So tonight I am gonna put 4 in and see how it does. In the morning I will get a hot fire going and see if it cooks off the creosote on the glass. Thanks:)



You've got a thermometer on that thing, right? If so, load it it full and keep an eye on it. It should be fine. Four average sized splits are not going to give you an overnight burn.
 
Wallace - Just so we are clear here - don't just put in your overnight splits, damp it down and go to bed. You should be putting those splits in, open the air all the way & bring it up to temp (I run up to around 450-475), turn down the air to around 1/2, temp will rise to over 500, let it sit at 1/2 air for around 15 minutes and then turn down to around 1/4 or less. Temp should go up again. I watch the temp and wait till temp starts to drop and only after the temp start to drop do I then I retire for the night.

I have coals in the morning & I repeat the same cycle.

Also: I am burning 2 yr. seasoned wood (cut/split/stacked for 2 yrs.) with a moisture content of less than 20%.
 
Should also add: My glass is only slightly "dusty" in the morning - no creosote build up.
 
One more thing: This stove seems to like what I would've previously called "small splits" i.e. 3-5". So, instead of 3 splits, I'm putting in like eight. I've yet to get a really good, clean burn out of three splits that are big enough to fill the firebox unless I'm running it at 6-700 degrees. I don't think dirty glass is a consequence of a normal slow burn. That stuff ended up on the glass within the first 1/2 - 2/3 of the burn while your air control was set too low. While the window crud will burn off the window with the next hot fire; will the stuff in the chimney do the same? Granted, I don't strive or expect to have usable coals in the morning. I generally only burn on weeknights after work and weekends--it coincides nicely with when I drink beer...

This also might be indicative of epa non-cats. The only other stove I've used extensively was a non-epa smoke dragon insert in my parents' house growing up.
 
FullCompliment said:
One more thing: This stove seems to like what I would've previously called "small splits" i.e. 3-5". So, instead of 3 splits, I'm putting in like eight. I've yet to get a really good, clean burn out of three splits that are big enough to fill the firebox unless I'm running it at 6-700 degrees. .

Jotul Oslo manual states operating temp should be between 400-600.
 
Stack temps are going to be lower than the fire box, so no the black stuff wont come of...unless there a chimney fire. Dont do that. Fiddle with the loads sizes and air control on your weekend burns. One saturday afternoon load up on a nice coal bed as if your going to do an over nighter. Youll see what your working with and be awake to make the adjustments needed to get a clean burn.

Try pulling the coals towards the front, make a split like shape and load up. Again establish fire then cut back in segments.

Youll get it just a bit of tinkering to get it dialed in just right. Once you know your stoves settings it will be second nature.
 
My manual says 4-600 for "most efficient operation." Many on here take their Jotuls to 750-850 without worry. I find it hard to believe the stove would perform less efficiently (from a particulate emission standpoint) above 600 than below. Then again, I don't like mine above 600. I think 450-550 is its sweet spot and I can generally get clean burns at anything above about 350 degrees with dry wood.
 
Wallace said:
FullCompliment said:
I only get 5-6 hours although I seem to err on the side of too open damper-wise. Something about dirty glass just irritates me. Keep in mind the absolute best wood I have to burn is tamarack (no hardwoods here). One problem with this stove: If you were overly excited and got your wood supply before buying or even picking out your stove, you most likely have a bunch of 16-18" splits. I think that, in order to optimize Oslo performance, it'd be better to have 20-22" wood to fill the firebox completely.
I am definetely getting 8 hour burns...and am happy with the heat production as well. It is funny you mentioned the over excited thingonthe wood. I had my wood 2 weeks prior to putting the stove in. Most of the splits are 16-18"...my next cord is gonna be about half 15" and half 20" for east west loading:)


I know why you are going to have 20" splits but why the 15", I will probably cut some 9" or 10" sometimes and see how the N-S thing works but just haven't. Sounds like you are getting nice long burns on just a few splits, is it not cold enough to fill that thing up and let her rip?

Well lots of luck to you.
 
Shari said:
Wallace - Just so we are clear here - don't just put in your overnight splits, damp it down and go to bed. You should be putting those splits in, open the air all the way & bring it up to temp (I run up to around 450-475), turn down the air to around 1/2, temp will rise to over 500, let it sit at 1/2 air for around 15 minutes and then turn down to around 1/4 or less. Temp should go up again. I watch the temp and wait till temp starts to drop and only after the temp start to drop do I then [/b]I retire for the night.

I have coals in the morning & I repeat the same cycle.

Also: I am burning 2 yr. seasoned wood (cut/split/stacked for 2 yrs.) with a moisture content of less than 20%.

+1. My wood is about 10-15%. Follow this schedule on a Saturday or Sunday during the day, watch it, then apply it towards your night burn. I follow Shari's instructions above to the "T" on my overnight burns. You will learn the way of your Oslo and love it!!! Lots of us do.
Greg
 
cptoneleg said:
Wallace said:
FullCompliment said:
I only get 5-6 hours although I seem to err on the side of too open damper-wise. Something about dirty glass just irritates me. Keep in mind the absolute best wood I have to burn is tamarack (no hardwoods here). One problem with this stove: If you were overly excited and got your wood supply before buying or even picking out your stove, you most likely have a bunch of 16-18" splits. I think that, in order to optimize Oslo performance, it'd be better to have 20-22" wood to fill the firebox completely.
I am definetely getting 8 hour burns...and am happy with the heat production as well. It is funny you mentioned the over excited thingonthe wood. I had my wood 2 weeks prior to putting the stove in. Most of the splits are 16-18"...my next cord is gonna be about half 15" and half 20" for east west loading:)


I know why you are going to have 20" splits but why the 15", I will probably cut some 9" or 10" sometimes and see how the N-S thing works but just haven't. Sounds like you are getting nice long burns on just a few splits, is it not cold enough to fill that thing up and let her rip?

Well lots of luck to you.

Do yourself a favor and DON'T try the N/S thing...it works awesome. If you do, you find yourself wrestling with the idea of cutting all of your wood that way. I love my Oslo, but I will never buy an E/W burner again. I'm not necessarily talking N/S loading--which the Oslo technically is if you're using the side door--but N/S with respect to the doghouse (like a PE). Give it a try (or don't), it burns thoroughly and evenly. I try to replicate in with E/W loading by raking a trench in the coals from the doghouse to the bricks for better airflow. Keep in mind that N/S loading with the Oslo usually means loading via the front door unless you have abnormally long, fireproof arms. I've played around with loading through the front door and have found that the "front door ash spillout epidemic" is not that bad if you regularly use that door. I encounter the problem after using only the side door for a couple of weeks and then using the front door.
 
Thanks for all the tips and advice! I have a lot to work with. My crappy imperial stove top thermometer broke today! So I am running without out one to tonight. I am trying 5 splits and not closing the damper down all the way. Working good so far!
 
FullCompliment said:
cptoneleg said:
Wallace said:
FullCompliment said:
I only get 5-6 hours although I seem to err on the side of too open damper-wise. Something about dirty glass just irritates me. Keep in mind the absolute best wood I have to burn is tamarack (no hardwoods here). One problem with this stove: If you were overly excited and got your wood supply before buying or even picking out your stove, you most likely have a bunch of 16-18" splits. I think that, in order to optimize Oslo performance, it'd be better to have 20-22" wood to fill the firebox completely.
I am definetely getting 8 hour burns...and am happy with the heat production as well. It is funny you mentioned the over excited thingonthe wood. I had my wood 2 weeks prior to putting the stove in. Most of the splits are 16-18"...my next cord is gonna be about half 15" and half 20" for east west loading:)


I know why you are going to have 20" splits but why the 15", I will probably cut some 9" or 10" sometimes and see how the N-S thing works but just haven't. Sounds like you are getting nice long burns on just a few splits, is it not cold enough to fill that thing up and let her rip?

Well lots of luck to you.

Do yourself a favor and DON'T try the N/S thing...it works awesome. If you do, you find yourself wrestling with the idea of cutting all of your wood that way. I love my Oslo, but I will never buy an E/W burner again. I'm not necessarily talking N/S loading--which the Oslo technically is if you're using the side door--but N/S with respect to the doghouse (like a PE). Give it a try (or don't), it burns thoroughly and evenly. I try to replicate in with E/W loading by raking a trench in the coals from the doghouse to the bricks for better airflow. Keep in mind that N/S loading with the Oslo usually means loading via the front door unless you have abnormally long, fireproof arms. I've played around with loading through the front door and have found that the "front door ash spillout epidemic" is not that bad if you regularly use that door. I encounter the problem after using only the side door for a couple of weeks and then using the front door.



I use the front door alot, It is my preferred door.
 
Wallace said:
I am working on getting an overnight burn, I get up at 5am to put a few splits on and my glass is pretty dirty. My oak is absolutly bone dry. Am I shutting the damper to much? I have a big bed of chunky glowing coals left over that pretty much instantly lights up the splits I add to it. If you guys have any tricks or ideas, it would be appreciated.
I wonder if your mile high altitude above sea level has something to do with the damper setting? Maybe a little more air should help?
 
Shari said:
Wallace said:
jotulguy said:
If you have a big bed of coals that is an over night burn. What time do you load it before bed? Is the firebox totally full on the last load? How tall is your flue?
.
I load it at 9pm and only put 3 medium splits in it. The box is not full. I have been burning the stove pretty much all the time and keep a bed of coals in it. I have not had a problem with the glass getting creosote on it until I leave it dampened down all night. I am happy with the burn times. Was just wondering if anyone had any tricks to keeping clean glass on an overnight burn:) my flue is 16' and I get a really good draft.

Why only 3 med. splits? I don't think I've ever put only 3 splits in except in the shoulder season. Of course, this depends on your split size I suppose. My splits are big enough that I can put my whole hand around the end of the split - so, what is that 3-1/2-4" or so probably. I would guess if I were to fill up my stove for night-time overnight burn I do just that - it's probably around 5 to 6+ splits. My splits are cut 20".

Darkened glass in the morning is to be expected - it's part of the cycle of burning. When you light it up again, get a good fire going, the glass will clear off on its own.

Gotta disagree with Shari on this . . . I routinely do my last load of the night when burning 24/7 around 9:30 and I'm in bed by 10 . . . the next morning when I wake up around 4:30-5 a.m. the glass is generally clean and I have some coals to do the re-light . . .

I suspect . . . since you are getting coals . . . and a long burn . . . that you may be closing the air too much or too early . . . can you tell us more about what you are doing before you head to bed (in terms of the woodstove . . . I don't need to know about you brushing your teeth or anything like that) . . . what are you seeing for secondaries, etc.
 
Shari said:
Should also add: My glass is only slightly "dusty" in the morning - no creosote build up.

Ah, ignore my last post then . . . dirty from fly ash is normal with any type of burning . . . dirty with it being black is not or rather should not be normal.
 
Wallace said:
jotulguy said:
If you have a big bed of coals that is an over night burn. What time do you load it before bed? Is the firebox totally full on the last load? How tall is your flue?
.
I load it at 9pm and only put 3 medium splits in it. The box is not full. I have been burning the stove pretty much all the time and keep a bed of coals in it. I have not had a problem with the glass getting creosote on it until I leave it dampened down all night. I am happy with the burn times. Was just wondering if anyone had any tricks to keeping clean glass on an overnight burn:) my flue is 16' and I get a really good draft.

Cleaning the glass . . .

If it is just dirty from the fly ash: I'll either leave it until the weekend or I have company coming over . . . and just swipe it clean with a damp newspaper.

If it is dirty from the fly ash and some black (i.e. a split has rolled up against the glass) . . . I'll either use the damp newspaper and dip it in the fly ash to clean it or if I'm lazy will just allow the black to burn off the next time I burn . . . once it gets hot it will burn off.
 
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