New Oslo owner

I've been reading this site for a while now, but have been slow to post. All the information is great. It's great reading about people as nutty as I am about burning wood. Anyways, this is our first winter in our new house (new to us). It is my fourth winter heating with wood. Previously I had a Lopi insert, I think from early 90's. It appeared to use some of the EPA tech (one secondary tube in front), but didn't really burn "clean". My new setup behaves much differently and I though I should take advantage of the wealth of knowledge here and get some input/advice. Some background: I bought my oslo used, though it is only a few years old. I've had the top off, baffle and secondary unit all out of the stove, due to it being moved around a lot before the install (to lighten it up some). The secondary, I actually removed because I noticed the cement was loose on one side where it seals to the back so I remove just to reseal with cement and reinstall. All appears sealed well, and my secondaries are functioning good. I removed the old 8" triple wall chimney and put in 6" Selkirk Metalbest double wall. I'm also using the Selkirk double wall stove pipe - about 15' and 5' respectively. I love the Oslo already although it hasn't been cold enough yet to give it a real test. I think it's going to work out great. Question 1: After loading I leave the primary open 100% until the stove top temp (at the corners per the manual) is around 400-450 or so and then begin backing it off gradually. I start getting pretty nervous when things really get kicking in the firebox. I fear that the flue temps may be getting out of hand because the draft sounds so strong. It's hard to tell with the double wall what's really going on. I've went in the attic and the chimney is not too hot. Is the roaring fire with open primary normal? I've experienced one brief chimney fire and the sound reminds me of it...so I'm a little gun shy. I've yet to get my temps up over 500 because I'm quick to shut it down as I don't want my flue too hot. My previous install was into a masonry chimney with a stainless, insulated liner. This is my first experience with exposed stove pipe and a manufactured chimney. I may just be more exposed to the sound. Do I need to get a probe thermometer or am I overreacting? Question 2: My oslo didn't have the bottom heat shield. My hearth pad is flush with the wood floor and from the joists up consists of 5/8" plywood decking, 2, 1/2" layers of durarock, 1/4" of thinset and 3/8" slate. The slate gets way hotter than I expected. I don't have an IR thermometer, but getting a rough estimate with the stove top thermometer I'm guessing it's over 200F. At it's hottest I cannot hold my hand on it. I've been using a small fan blowing under the stove and this keeps things cool. I've considered just getting some sheet metal and making a small shield. I hate to pay $100 when I think the protection I need is minimal if any. What do you guys think? I just know i cannot chance having a fire in the crawl space.

Sorry for the long post...look forward to the replies.

Blue-black. I've had it for almost a year, saw the deal when we were about to close on the house last winter. It's been killing me just sitting waiting for a fire to be lit in it. Then I had a sweep come out and inspect the old chimney before I fire it up and decided to replace it. I've only been burning for a week or so. It's bad when you want it to get cold outside so you can see what your stove can do. 50's and rainy the next few days :long:

As for the flue...like I said, the roaring kinda brings back some scary feelings. I don't like the thought of flames shooting up the pipe for long. I'm seriously considering a probe thermometer. I just hate to put a 1/4" hole in my new pipe! That and there was a pretty long debate about their accuracy on this forum. For the shield, does it just mount with the two bolts or is there an additional spacer?

Thanks ploughboy. I wrote the comments below before I saw your post. I'll post them anyways. I think the R-value is around 1. I've felt the bottom of the decking and the protruding screws from the crawl when the floor is at it's hottest. It's just warm not at all hot. But I know plywood has an r value as well. I don't know how to calculate the temp on the other side of it.

I have done the dollar bill and light test. I can pull the dollar bill through, but there's resistance. I don't have any problem controlling the fire once it's going and the flue definitely stabilizes and cools down some. I'm just on edge when getting up to temp. Seems like a lot of draft (but nothing like if the ash door is cracked a hair). It appears the flames are likely reaching/going up the flue a bit. Should I experience this with the doors sealed and primary open? Are other Oslo owners seeing this? On my previous setup I couldn't hear it so much with the door closed. Of course it was a different setup, I could burn the whole load wide open. Is it possible, in-spite of being able to control the fire, I may have significant air leakage? Thanks for the replies so far.

ploughboy, The R value is excluding the plywood. What I was trying to say is that the side of the decking I can feel from the crawl isn't hot, but that's not to say the side I can't feel isn't hot since the wood has an R value. Over analyzing I'm sure. I just want to get some reassurance one way or the other from folks, which you've helped with.

Shari, thanks. I think I'll enjoy being a member. My current chimney is 6" class A double wall. My prior install and all my experience was with a masonry chimney with an 8" SS liner.

Thanks stump_branch. Mine gets a little hot in front of the stove, but really hot under the stove. I can believe slate conducts heat more than most material. It's amazing how warm the whole pad gets. I like it except for the hot spot.

Yes, directly under. Given the way the stove behaves if the ash pan door is cracked when burning I would think if I had a leak there I'd know it. Wouldn't you think? It's not always hot. Not necessarily related to stove top temps either. I've found the floor is hotter after the load run a while and the stove top starts to cool. Possibly from embers? I'm leaning toward buying a piece of sheet metal and seeing what I can make fairly easily. Until then the fan keeps it cool anyways. I'll do another light/dollar bill test tonight too.

Stump_Branch said:

I would think yes you would notice. But i wonder why the heat. Could just different setups of course.

You do have an actual removable pan in there right? Should be a thin gauge metal pan. I say this as i know a buddy whos VC does not have the pan. They just let the ash fall in the ash pan area a scoop out later. Just trying to think through it.

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Yep. Have the pan. How long are the standard legs? Is it possible I have a short leg kit and didn't know it? You don't have the bottom heat shield on right?

Sorry it took so long. Now that my wife's made fun of me for taking pictures of the stove and asked if it will turn up in our family photo album, here's kid #4, Oslo :cheese: I had just lit the fire...nothing impressive there. Hopefully the pictures will show what you want. The legs are about 8 1/2". So I guess they're standard.

Shari said:

pyrojoe -

Did you change the finish on the wooden knobs? I LIKE that! Been thinking of doing the same thing......

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That's how I got it. Not sure if the finish has been changed or not. Could be a good touch though.