Eagle 5520 pellet stove

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Pelstove

New Member
Oct 26, 2011
8
Central me
Hi everyone, This will be my 5th season burning pellets. last 3yrs using a big E by breckwell . This fall i bought a Eagle 5520 hybrid stove. Burn pot overfills no matter were i set the intake air setting any ideas? thanks
 
Typically, pot overfills are caused by lack of burn air. You stated that you tried the air damper in all diff. positions, so I guess that's out.

Have you checked the door seal with the dollar bill test? Is the flame lazy (very dark orange w/ black tips)? Where is the stove located, and what type of exhaust set-up do you have? Do you have outside air hooked up?
 
The flame is lazy when air damper is 1/4" open and straight up when damper is wide open , 3" exaust , outside air hooked up, in basement with 4' of vetical pipe and 2' of horizontal pipe
 
imacman it is an USSC 5520.

You might want to call US Stove Company and talk to one of their techs, there is a procedure to ask the stove controller about its feed rates, I've seen at least one report of them having the feed rate set too high and if the air rate isn't set properly ...

I have downloaded the manual but I'm not going to read it tonight.

Polish Princess had a situation where the feed rate and draft air flow were properly paired but the feed rate was too high.
 
Hey smokey the bear. There is no way to change the feed rate. I called ussc and breckwell numerous times and they give me the run around with bad pellets or damper settings.
 
I don't have that same controller. It's the 4 setting auto control, no way to change the feed rate or the blower. Has to a defected item trying to send it back now. looking at the 5500m model now. Trying to spend too much on a stove. Any ideas?
 
Have either of you checked the door seals including ash pan doors?

Can you post a picture of your burn pot liner, burn pot, and tell us if there is any unevenness when it sits in the pot?

We need the exact configuration of your venting.

That stove is going to need draft adjustments for each heat level setting. From the description of the stoves operation the combustion blower runs flat out.

That stove is only supposed to be feed PFI Premium or better Hardwood Pellets according to page 6 in the manual.
 
Check all seals.

Burn pot sit but there was a gap on both sides called ussc they said that's normal. SMH that don't seem right cause the combustion air escapes out of those gaps. I put a piece of metal and screwed it down to close them up.

Venting is t out the back, 5 feet of vertical pipe, 90, 2 feet of horizontal out above the ground 2 feet.

Adjusted the draft in every position. Yes the blower runs 3000 rpm.

I did stove chow first then changed to American wood fiber, that say's premium on the bag, that someone let me have a bag of there's they said it works fine in theirs.
 
Please post the requested pictures and add to that and outside picture of the venting. I've seen cases where the welding jobs on burn pots has left them susceptible to warping and losing the air that should be going through the pellet pile.

Are all of the interior joints on that venting air tight?

I take it this is a basement installation, what else is in the basement that moves air such as a oil fired furnace/boiler. any fans.

If your house isn't very tight the one place that is apt to have a significant negative air pressure is the basement.
 
Did you get the window air wash fix for this stove....other threads say this stove needs this fix. Part No. 5520-FSK, which I received from a call back from Breckwell. I'm trying get this fix since I have same issue with this stove. Anyone have this fix?
 
I got the so called fix from US Stove....part no. 5520FFK, but it did not come with instructions.....it consists of a gasket to be mounted behind the burn pot and 2 pieces of insulation on some paper tape each 4 inches long....
 
Fix installed. Stove working good now.
I have the kit but no instructions and no glue got the 2 strips and the gasket for the ash pan (can see fire thru it) and also have the flat white gasket with the holes in it not sure where that goes
 
Dan - here are the steps
1 - remove burn box holder (2 screws)
2 - insert white gasket against back of the stove housing lining up the pre cut holes, etc.
3 - put back burn box holder and screw in tight - and I also had to push it down to lay flat - I think this slightly bends the mounts just a bit.
4 - remove the glass from the door
5 - clean the bottom backing metal where the strips will be sticking too
6 - stick on the 2 strips after carefully removing the sticky back cover on the bottom left and right side of the bottom window mount such that the outside edge is flush with the glass side and that the bottom edge is approx flush with bottom of the glass when the glass is back in its holder on the door. There should be remaining about a 4 to 6" air gap in the center now. If you want, you can get more insulation strips and block the air gap completely - I'm going to do that. The air wash does not really do anything - you have to clean the glass daily or every other day anyway.
7 - install the glass and tight down the clamps - but not too tight to break the glass
8 - replace door and ash box gaskets to get a better air seal or replace completely with some other type of installation - such as what others have posted on Hearth.com like the high temp silcon installation strips/tape.
9 - use high temp silicon (red) to plug up any little corners or air gap spots in the burn chamber and the corners of the ash bin
10 - lastly - look at other posts on how to close up the air gaps between the burn box and the burn box holder - some others have posted gasket ideas.
Thats it.
Jeff
 
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