Thinking of going from VC Vigilant to F600.......8 inch to 6 inch pipe...and flue

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

havemercyph

New Member
Nov 1, 2011
9
Maine
Was wondering if people think I would have any draft issues? I really want to make the upgrade but another user mentioned this and I wanted to check with what people think? Thanks a lot in advance! People also mentioned when buying used to make sure the grates or anything else inside isn't warped or has any hairline cracks...also check back of stove....I guess grates can get warped if people open up the ash pan to vent the stove during initial startup...which overheats it and warps grates....basically to vacumm inside with a shopvac and look inside with a flashlight...any other advice....I assume the F600's haven't changed at all from 2006 to 2011 really??? any changes in dimensions or anything besides colors? I understand they are all cb and non cat from 2006 on at least? anyone know when they changed?
 
The draft issue will depend on your exact setup. If, for instance, you have a straight up 8" insulated chimney - this should be fine for the new Jotul. But if your chimney is out and up (TEE) and has a couple turns, then it might be marginal. If you describe your exact setup - then someone may be able to give a better guess.

As to the F600, I think you have the date about right.....that is, the non-cat unit was available sometime around 2005. It is unlikely that they changed much since the non-cat because such changes would require completely new lab testing and labeling. I think it would have a different model # in this case.
 
They actually started Firelight cb in about 1999 (when mine was made.) It was marketed as the F12, then, but I changed the secondary burn manifold and tubes 5 years ago with the F600 cb setup. It fit.
 
Dexter said:
They actually started Firelight cb in about 1999 (when mine was made.) It was marketed as the F12, then, but I changed the secondary burn manifold and tubes 5 years ago with the F600 cb setup. It fit.

But he's asking if the stove has not changed since 2006.
 
thanks for email so far...I ask because I'm looking to buy a used f600 if I can find one. My friend told me as long as it says F600 CB on back that CB means clean burn and non cat.....I want a non cat not a catalytic one.....but it begs the questions how much work and expense is it to convert a firelight 12 cat to a non cat? and is it really the same as the newer f600cb model? thanks!!!
 
to be even more clear about it....what is the easiest way to tell a jotul 600 cat from non cat? is it just the the name is f600cb or firelight 12?
 
F12/F600 cb: CB means "clean burn", i.e., no cat needed. The non cat has burn tubes at the top of the firebox, while the cat has a combustor intake at the back top of the box, with no burn tubes. I think the cat version has a foot peddle to hold up the top loading door, to keep your hands free. The CB versions do not have the top-loading capability. I have not missed it.

Regards,
 
As far as the 6" and 8" is concerned, I'm running my f500 into a tee then up about 26' ss insulated 8" liner. I have noticed it is a bit sluggish to come up to temp, but it is the shoulder season. I'm going to wait for colder temps and see how it does. It's not bad, just not as good as it could be. Still gives great heat.
 
We run our 600 with 6" Dble wall pipe to an 8" increaser at the ceiling box with 8" class A from there - it's a total of almost 20' total. No problems with draft, or keeping toasty warm.
 
This marks the third year of using the F600 cb connected to an interior masonry chimney lined with nominal 8 x 12 flue tiles. 8" to 6" reducer at the connection between stove pipe and chimney. No problems at all.
 
You guys rule....thanks so much I can't wait till I move up from the VC Vigiliant to the F600....never thought I would get so into buying a wood stove...I guess I'm getting old quickly at 32....my dad said its an 8x12 flue...only like 25 year old house so pretty modern I guess...
 
last question...can you guys tell from the pics that this is the cb non cat version of the f600? also what the heck is the lever that is near the pipe going into chimney is that a shutoff or something? I assume the heat shield on back can be removed with a few screws....
 

Attachments

  • pic1.jpg
    pic1.jpg
    6 KB · Views: 265
  • pic2.jpg
    pic2.jpg
    5 KB · Views: 263
  • pic3.jpg
    pic3.jpg
    4.8 KB · Views: 239
yeah I think it is but haven't seen it in person yet...hopefully buying after tday...I will look at the new manuals and be looking for the circular burn tubes at the top and also I assume the 600 has the brick things in the back...so if I see those two I'm sure its cb..
 
havemercyph said:
yeah I think it is but haven't seen it in person yet...hopefully buying after tday...I will look at the new manuals and be looking for the circular burn tubes at the top and also I assume the 600 has the brick things in the back...so if I see those two I'm sure its cb..

I do not have any firebrick in mine- it is all cast. (at least I do not think I have missed firebrick- I would hope not) :)
 
yeah i thought i saw those bricks in the f500 as well as the burn tubes at top...i will just look for burn tubes at top i guess...
 
Everything in the pictures indicates it's the F600 CB non catalytic model. A couple of things, though:

There is no firebrick used in the stove, at least not in mine nor the ones pictured in the Jotul catalog. The castings are protected on the interior by replaceable burn plates - a system Jotul has used in its stoves for many, many years.

There is a heat shield that can be attached to the bottom of the stove, but what you're referring to as the rear heat shield has a number of other functions. When the dealer delivered my stove still crated from the factory, this part was already completely attached. The only pieces that were not were the front ash lip, casting to which the stove pipe attaches, and the loading door handle assembly.

It's impossible to be 100% sure from the picture, but the handle extending from the pipe is most likely for a in-pipe damper that was added by the previous owner. I do not have one and I've never found any need for a draft control other than the one built into the stove.
 
When we moved in to our house, there was a non epa (and much abused) smoke dragon, running 6" to 90, then horizontally to an adaptor/thimble/8", then horizontally (as an 8" insulated) through the wall to a cleanout tee, w/vertical insulated 8" to the top of the chimney chase. I estimate the vertical run to be about 24 to 26 feet. Our new firelight was sluggish to draft, and back-puffed (sometimes pretty violently) at the beginning of the first season. A Jotul (contracted) rep came out with a tape measure, and did a bit of head scratching. He said that with such a setup, we should not have more than 36" of horizontal run at the absolute maximum. We had 40". He noted that we had lots of excess clearance at the back of the stove, and recommended shortening the horizontal run of piped by moving the stove back. This reduced the total horizontal run by about 9", to a total of 31" horizontal run. We have been running the stove absolutely problem-free ever since. That's all it took.

Your rear heat shield looks like a jury rig after-sale affair. It hides the flue collar, which is normally exposed on the cb. If this is not the case, perhaps the entire back of the stove is detatched for some reason? What's the clearance to the back wall, without it?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.