how safe is harman wall pass through kit ?

I have it and trust it completely.

The way I figure it is that the exhaust isn't that (relatively speaking) hot. Its already in an insulated pipe, theres plenty of free-air around it, then the heat shield before it comes in contact with anything combustable. I would doubt the heat shield ever gets very warm under normal operation. The flash point of wood is well over 500*F, so even if the shield is right up against a stud, the stove will temp out and shut off before that much heat ever comes down the pipe, let alone get transfered to the house.

AVIVIII said:

I have it and trust it completely.

The way I figure it is that the exhaust isn't that (relatively speaking) hot. Its already in an insulated pipe, theres plenty of free-air around it, then the heat shield before it comes in contact with anything combustable. I would doubt the heat shield ever gets very warm under normal operation. The flash point of wood is well over 500*F, so even if the shield is right up against a stud, the stove will temp out and shut off before that much heat ever comes down the pipe, let alone get transfered to the house.

Click to expand...

However, prolonged exposure to heat can lower that to 170 F. http://www.doctorfire.com/low_temp_wood1.pdf

I'm not going to lie, I skipped to the conclusion for that one...

But what I got out of it was that for short intervals of heat, this theory doesn't apply. But for prolonged heat, you shouldn't exceed 77*C or 170*F. Referring back to the chart on page 4, a significantly higher temperature of 107*C (225*F) took 1050 days of continuous heat just to discolor the wood. Thats almost 3 years of running straight!

I believe the intervals at which we run the soves still does not pose a significant risk based on this research.

Even with that information, I don't trust it any less.

Simpson pellet pro is 1" to combustibles. Second w/ a harman pass thru you are pulling outside air in through the air space around your vent pipe. The hotter you burn the stove the colder the air is coming in passed the pipe.

I know this doesn't answer any of your questions but I am still amazed at how nice the Selkirk DT vent piping is. I have an up and out setup and no vertical section outside. Because of this, where the vent pipe passes through the wall, it is cold to the touch. I wonder if the thimble is just more decorative with this type of setup than anything. The rest of the vent piping is just ever so slightly warm to the touch. I don't think I'd even worry about needing to use high temp paint if I ever needed to do any touchup painting on it.

Well, to give you an idea. A certain somebody I know has been using their pellet stove for 10 years with the pipe passed through the wall without a thimble. The interior paneling, insulation and then the siding are all in direct contact with the pipe.

No issues yet.

DAKSY said:

Checkthisout said:

No issues yet.

Click to expand...

& when those issues occur, that someone will probably be out of a house as
he has violated the installation manual. Insurance companies love people
like that. They collect insurance premiums & don't have to pay anything out
for damages.

Click to expand...

If he were to have a mortgage, how would the insurance company reconcile such a scenario with the bank?

how safe is harman wall pass through kit ?

I would not worry

Eric

The Harman Wall pass throught kit is tested to the same standards as the Simpson Duravent or Selkirk or any other brand's pass through. There is nothing to worry about as long as everything has been installed properly.

Checkthisout said:

DAKSY said:

Checkthisout said:

No issues yet.

Click to expand...

& when those issues occur, that someone will probably be out of a house as
he has violated the installation manual. Insurance companies love people
like that. They collect insurance premiums & don't have to pay anything out
for damages.

Click to expand...

If he were to have a mortgage, how would the insurance company reconcile such a scenario with the bank?

Click to expand...

The deal with the bank is between the borrower and the bank, not the bank and the insurance company.

So no reconciliation is required between the insurance company and the bank.

ETA: In a lot of states if the borrower doesn't make the bank whole the bank can ask for a writ of execution, that results in a Sheriff seizing the borrowers personal property and selling it until the writ has been satisfied. Banks have also been known to also ask for and get writs of execution if the sale of a property in default doesn't cover the remaining balance of the mortgage.

The borrower in most mortgages is obligated to obtain and maintain insurance on the property that is in accordance with the insurance company's agreement with the borrower and the mortgage holder.

Borrower beware.

The pass through sleeve provides 3" of clearance to the exhaust pipe. The external plate of the pass through sleeve provides a large heatsink for any heat that transferrs across that 3" air gap. Without that heatsink, heat would eventually transfer across the 3" airgap and heat the sleeve. With the outside plate, the sleeve maintains a temperature somewhere between the outside temp and the exhaust pipe temp.

SmokeyTheBear said:

Checkthisout said:

DAKSY said:

Checkthisout said:

No issues yet.

Click to expand...

& when those issues occur, that someone will probably be out of a house as
he has violated the installation manual. Insurance companies love people
like that. They collect insurance premiums & don't have to pay anything out
for damages.

Click to expand...

If he were to have a mortgage, how would the insurance company reconcile such a scenario with the bank?

Click to expand...

The deal with the bank is between the borrower and the bank, not the bank and the insurance company.

So no reconciliation is required between the insurance company and the bank.

ETA: In a lot of states if the borrower doesn't make the bank whole the bank can ask for a writ of execution, that results in a Sheriff seizing the borrowers personal property and selling it until the writ has been satisfied. Banks have also been known to also ask for and get writs of execution if the sale of a property in default doesn't cover the remaining balance of the mortgage.

The borrower in most mortgages is obligated to obtain and maintain insurance on the property that is in accordance with the insurance company's agreement with the borrower and the mortgage holder.

Borrower beware.

Click to expand...

In the event that I did some out of code work on my house etc, and that work results in a total loss of the house, what stops the insurance company from having to pay to build a new house (up to the limits of the policy)?

Checkthisout said:

SmokeyTheBear said:

Checkthisout said:

DAKSY said:

Checkthisout said:

No issues yet.

Click to expand...

& when those issues occur, that someone will probably be out of a house as
he has violated the installation manual. Insurance companies love people
like that. They collect insurance premiums & don't have to pay anything out
for damages.

Click to expand...

If he were to have a mortgage, how would the insurance company reconcile such a scenario with the bank?

Click to expand...

The deal with the bank is between the borrower and the bank, not the bank and the insurance company.

So no reconciliation is required between the insurance company and the bank.

ETA: In a lot of states if the borrower doesn't make the bank whole the bank can ask for a writ of execution, that results in a Sheriff seizing the borrowers personal property and selling it until the writ has been satisfied. Banks have also been known to also ask for and get writs of execution if the sale of a property in default doesn't cover the remaining balance of the mortgage.

The borrower in most mortgages is obligated to obtain and maintain insurance on the property that is in accordance with the insurance company's agreement with the borrower and the mortgage holder.

Borrower beware.

Click to expand...

In the event that I did some out of code work on my house etc, and that work results in a total loss of the house, what stops the insurance company from having to pay to build a new house (up to the limits of the policy)?

Click to expand...

It would depend upon the terms in the policy, you did read those correct.

That policy you bought has a lot of wording in it, read it sometime.

kurthood said:

Looks like this conversation got into slightly more than exhaust venting.

Click to expand...

Threads tend to do that. Usually it will be two or three people that get off topic and then turn it into a debate. The secret is to find the information that applies to your question and take the rest with a grain of salt. (Maybe useful information, but did I ask that question ??)

kurthood said:

"so even if the shield is right up against a stud, the stove will temp out and shut off before that much heat ever comes down the pipe, let alone get transfered to the house. "


You mentioned the stove will shut down if it senses its burning too hot ? what might that temp be ?

Kurt

Click to expand...

A stove will shut down due to high temperatures depending upon the high limit system in the stove and the thermal protection temperature of the combustion blower.

A combustion blower that thermals off (varies but is frequently around 475°F) will cause a loss of vacuum shutdown. A lot of high temperature systems either slow down or stop the fuel flow at between 200°F and 250°F at a predetermined point on the heat exchanger.

In the prior two cases the temperature is far below the rating of your vent pipe and the silicone used to provide the gas tight seals.

The one gotcha temperature wise is if your stove is burning so bad (for any of many reasons) that you are generating a lot of creosote. Once that touches off, things get extremely hot very fast and the stove's safeties might slow it down, and the stove you have is one that should (that air intake flapper will close depriving the fire of oxygen) do a decent job in that department.

So to summarize the venting is tested to prevent both the ignition at normal ignition temperature of all combustibles at the recommended clearances from the venting, a properly installed and undamaged pass through (thimble) makes certain that the combustibles are no closer than the recommended clearances.

In order to lower the ignition temperature of wood for example quite a long exposure to heat is required.