Biomass 40 controller shuts off - frustrated

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

aforbes100

New Member
Nov 26, 2011
12
MAINE
This is my second year using a Biomass40 with 500 gallons of storage. I have always used the following settings:

thermostat - 195
pump - 170
hysteris - 4
fd--
fb30

Starting at the end of last year the unit would shut down automatically at start up and "fuel" would be seen on the controller. This occurred within about an hour after starting the unit, very seasoned wood, clean boiler, clean chimney, gasification, blue flame, etc. I was told that by setting fd at - - that it would not shut down at start up. The problem continued and ultimately I received a new controller (under warranty) this year). The same problem is happening again with a new contoller. I should also point out that the boiler is not reaching the 195 thermostat setting so the fb30 is not to blame. That setting is working fine.

Again, I am still using the settings above, the boiler has a dedicated circuit of power, all of these settings worked for 6 months, but am frustrated that the system is shutting down automatically still. Today for example, the boiler and tank were at 140 and I started it, had a nice bed of coals, put in very seasoned wood. All was well, the system was getting up to 170, the pump would turn on and then shut off when the boiler temp dropped below 166. Then after some period of time the unit shuts down and "fuel" is on the controller. I have to hit stop and start and then the system will be fine for the duration of the night.

As you can imagine, it is very frustrating to have the unit shut down on its own. Has anyone experienced this. Anyone know how to correct.

Thanks,
Andrew
 
I had similar experiences until I changed the fb and fd settings. I would bet that is the problem, specifically the failure to rise 2 degrees in the allowed time of 30 minutes. See the manual snippet.

No-fuel testing time during fuel firing start [Fd60] - after switching to WORK mode, if water temperature does not increase by 2°C in programmed time, the control process will be turned off and the display will show the message: [FUEL]. You can return to previous mode by pressing STOP button. No fuel testing time during fuel firing is finished after the set temperature is achieved.

No-fuel testing time during work mode [Fb30] - in WORK mode, if temperature of water in the boiler decreases below temperature set with the thermostat, by hysteresis value, and does not increase by 2°C in the programmed time, the control process will be turned off and the display will show the message: [FUEL]. You can cancel the alarm by pressing STOP button.
 
Now my fd is at 3 hrs, fb is at 4 hrs. I don't know if there are any drawbacks with these settings but I don't have the "fuel" come on unless there truly is no fuel to burn. I have storage also so I did not see a reason to have this set lower. I could be wrong???
 
Mine are both set at 2 hr and I haven't had a premature FUEL shutdown since. When I cut in my storage I think I will set them as high as they go since either a timer or a stack temperature controllered shutdown will be necessary. With the possibly of bridging, etc. the default settings for 30" and 60" are riduculus. For a non storage setup it should shutdown when the boiler circ pump hasn't ran for xx time probably something like 60".
 
The only downside to using "hours" for these settings is on the backside of a burn, heading toward shut down. Or if your fire completely stalls. If you don't have a way to shut off the fan (like Huskers mentioned) the EKO will run the fan for a very long time on an empty chamber of wood. This hastens cooling of the refractory and flushes a certain amount of usable heat up the stack and out of the house (if you have it indoor).

I personally run the factory specs on fd and fb with storage. After my first season of battling bridging I no longer have a problem avoiding the situation where these settings really "matter" during normal operation. Smaller splits make life easier in so many ways.
 
I agree with the reccomendation to use a stack temp shutdown control of some sort. I am using a Jld612 with great results.
 
Thank you for the comments. I tried the fd 4 hour setting and it is not shutting down. When it gets to 195 and eventually can't get back to 195 within 60 minutes (fb60) it shuts down fine.

Still curious about the fd-- setting. I was told that this overrides the fd so it won't shut down during the start up. I tested this setting once with no wood and the fan ran for hours without shutting down, but if I try it with a burn it shuts down at random times (usually within an hour). I am happy that I have it working without shutting down. No hurry, but if anyone has any insight into the fd-- setting I would appreciate it.
 
weiland13 said:
I agree with the reccomendation to use a stack temp shutdown control of some sort. I am using a Jld612 with great results.

I like the look of that JLD612. Can you post a pic or link to the probe you are using?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.