Is it safe to burn wood in a cat wood stove with out the Cat?

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Is it ok to use liquid ranch on the bolts inside the wood stove?
 
AppalachianStan said:
Is it ok to use liquid ranch on the bolts inside the wood stove?

I like blue cheese better than liquid ranch, but that's a personal preference. %-P

Just kidding ya. Is the cat holder nut frozen on? A little Liquid Wrench sprayed on won't hurt it. Let it sit and soak in before trying to remove the nut.
 
And if liquid wrench doesnt get it, try taking a blow torch and heating the nut slightly then try backing it out, do not overheat it as it might snap off, then you will have to get a set of easy outs. Been there done that.

You could also try kroil oil, that stuff works wonders but its hard to find.
 
Good news it looks like I will be able to get by with 2 cats. 2" x 2" x 7"
 

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I probably missed it, but does your stove have the old catalyist combustors in it? If so, do you know if they are bad? If they are there, I'd burn the stove with them as some catalyist burn is better than none.

Good luck,
Bill
 
leeave96 said:
I probably missed it, but does your stove have the old catalyist combustors in it? If so, do you know if they are bad? If they are there, I'd burn the stove with them as some catalyist burn is better than none.

Good luck,
Bill

No I do not have the cats.
 
AppalachianStan said:
BeGreen said:
Anyhow, to answer your original question, I would think it probably safe. The stove is just burning like most old smoke dragons when run without the cat.

I just not know about that. The old smoke dragons got a lot more air then this stove does and i geuss that is way I have all ways thought the stove was not getting enough air IMO.

That's my thought as well. The better older airtight stoves were designed with higher air volumes, and with higher velocity air intakes that help create turbulence inside the firebox to promote good air/fuel gas mixing. A cat-less cat stove without that design would be worse than burning an old airtight, and I really don't see how drier wood will provide more air. If anything, it could make matters worse. Faster pyrolysis = more smoke. More smoke + less air to burn it + lower velocity intake = more unburned smoke going up the stack.
 
mellow said:
You could also try kroil oil, that stuff works wonders but its hard to find.

Never heard of it, but I'll have to give it a try. A Google search got plenty of retail hits.

I've alway sworn by PB Blaster, but an entire can sprayed onto the stuck rotor on my Camry over four days plus numerous bar clamps and sledge hammers failed to budge the thing. I ended up taking my angle grinder and grinding out the grooves. Poor man's brake turning. :coolsmirk:
 
I had this same problem when I bought my stove with missing cats. After much trial and error went to the local stove store (2 hrs away) and they set me up with the 2 cats and 1/4" thick gasket material to wrap them in. All said and done, a nice snug fit and stove working wonderful. Trust me, I feel your pain. After I figured out the cats were missing and started researching my stove I found ZIP ! It's as if it is the only one in existence.
 
Of course you CAN burn the stove without the cats, but you will be lessening it's efficiency, it's ability to heat, and possibly damaging the stove or creating a lot of creosote build-up in your chimney. You will burn twice as much wood without the cats as you would with the cats being properly used. For this reason alone, it would be well worth replacing the cats.
 
central_scrutinizer said:
Of course you CAN burn the stove without the cats, but you will be lessening it's efficiency, it's ability to heat, and possibly damaging the stove or creating a lot of creosote build-up in your chimney. You will burn twice as much wood without the cats as you would with the cats being properly used. For this reason alone, it would be well worth replacing the cats.

central_scrutinizer I have a lot of questions about the Appalachian 52 if you have the time for them. I did not get your PM don't know whats up with that.
 
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