To Go SOAPSTONE / or Pacific Energy Alderlea T5 / T6???????????????

Sound like the rater must have been one of the first to buy a T6. I agree with the statement about the ash system, and we get similar burn times. But the rest sounds like lack of general knowledge. We went from a beautiful, porcelained Castine to the painted, cast iron T6 3 seasons ago. I was concerned about dust collection (true of all cast iron surfaces that aren't glazed), but have found the issue to be minimal. After 3 years the stove still looks great with just an occasional vacuuming and a wipe with a damp rag. The heat retention of the cast iron mass of this stove was immediately noticeable and continues to be appreciated. Mass rules for evening out heat. Personally having been close in operation and looking at the build details of the Summit v T6, I prefer the Alderlea for it's solid door hinges, nice ash lip, and versatility. It's a winner in our book. Hope you enjoy your's too for many years to come. Take pictures please.

PS: Guess it's time to get that ceiling fan working right.

PPS: Certified is right, the screen won't produce more heat. Most screen purchasers use them once or twice and then they become dust collectors. You will find that as you reduce the air (in stages) on a fresh reload in the stove it will get much hotter on the stove top. I would return the screen for credit. A good stove top thermometer will get used a lot more.

Congratulations, it looks great. I'm disappointed and surprised to hear about any overspray on the glass, the stove should have been painted before the glass was installed. Ask your dealer about this. The glass may need to be replaced.
Not sure about the ash pan rattle, make sure it is pushed back all the way home. Ours is quite solid. The bricks are actually made of pumice and are premium, not cheap bricks. They use pumice for it's higher insulation value to achieve a hotter, cleaner burn. They will last years as long as you take care of them. Don't slam in the wood and they will be fine. Ours are going on year 4 and still looking good, no cracks.

The stove box itself is steel. It sounds like you are running it too hot. The normal top temperature should not be run above 400C for a long period of time. 500C is in overfire territory. For comparison we are running our stovetop between 300-350°C. Try cutting down the air earlier and not reloading on a full hot coal bed. Our thermometer is placed to the front and left of the flue collar, so that it is visible with the trivet top closed, through the slats in the trivet.

The stove is built like a tank, but frequent overfiring will eventually stress out the joints and welds. Evidence of overfiring can void the warranty. For the longevity of any stove you want to avoid prolonged or repeated overfiring.

For reference, here's our thermometer location.

One can definitely get a stove too hot, be it cast iron, steel or soapstone. An occasional foray to the high side is usually fine. Frequent overheating will eventually fatigue or crack something. With a steel stove that fatigue often shows up at a weld or warping. In a cast iron or soapstone it is usually a crack.

You'll want to follow the instructions in the manual for the shop stove chimney installation. It will read something like this:

The chimney must rise above the roof at least 3' (0.9 mm) from the uppermost point of
contact. See Figure 2.2.
• The chimney must exceed any part of the building or other obstruction within a 10' (3.04 m)
distance by a height of at least 2' (0.6 m). See Figure 2.2.
• The minimum overall height of the chimney system, measured from the stove top to the
exterior termination cap of the chimney should be at least 12' (3.66m). A chimney which is
too short may lack the “tunnel effect†required to obtain a proper draft.
• Installation of an interior chimney is always preferable to an exterior chimney. Chimneys
constructed outside of the home on an exterior wall should be avoided if possible, especially
in colder climates. The gas which circulates into an interior chimney will cool more slowly,
thus reducing the build-up of creosote and the risk of flue fires.
• All else being equal, cooler chimneys will have less draft than hotter ones. This problem will
be amplified if the chimney is excessively long. A chimney which is excessively long may be
very hard to warm-up due to its higher volume. A cool chimney may even down draft
(reverse flow) due to the difficulty in heating it up to operating temperature while trying to
evacuate the stack gases.

You can use almost any thin non-combustible to test this theory. Though I'm wondering if the rattling is a symptom of another issue. Is the stove dead level and sitting solidly on all 4 legs? Is the floor well supported in this location or is it fairly springy?

I just went over to our stove and started bouncing on the floor and now I think I hear what you are hearing. It is definitely a rattle, but I don't think it is the trivet. Not sure yet, our floor are pretty solidly supported so I have to work a bit to get it to happen. I will try again when I can get a helper to stomp so that I can do a closer job of listening. It sounds more like it's toward the back of the stove but I am not certain. Sounds like something under the heat shield, but the stove is hot so I will leave it to you to discover.

The trivet should rest solidly in the little U shaped rest stop, groove when closed. If you find that a little shim there quiets the rattle it could be that the trivet top needs a very slight tweak in leveling. To do this swing out the trivets and look low, beneath the side of the trivet you will see a leveling bolt just behind the pivot hinge. Adjust in small increments, like just a 1/4 turn to lower the front of the trivet so that it seats more firmly in that U shaped rest stop.

The glass should be straight-forward to replace. It looks pretty simple.

I haven't removed the glass on this stove, but it looks like a simple compression fit. From what I see, the clips have slider slots that allow one to push the clip against the glass and gasket, then tighten. It looks like a nice simple system. Just don't push too hard on the glass, all it should take is a firm contact.

Top view of an EcoFan. It's actually spinning, but the flash stops the action.