Englander update!!

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Ramcononer

New Member
Nov 17, 2011
125
Long Island, NY
So we were going to get the Englander insert for a steal from Lowes. Wifey saw a nice vermont castings and said she didn't like the Englander. HUGE price difference mind you. Anyway, she has now decided that we need a stove and doesn't care what it looks like as long as it pushes heat. She wants to use the "savings" from not buying the VC to redo the bedroom.

Our plan:
Put an NC-13 freestanding into the fireplace with the available blower. Use it to heat 1100 sq ft of living space. The sales person however is tell us that the brick in the fireplace will take most of the heat. I don't buy that though. Any feedback on this idea?
 
Im sure there's a block-off plate you can put in the fireplace around the pipe to stop that from happening. Otherwise you will lose some heat up the chimney. Also depends on how far the stove sits out of the fireplace... the more the better. The blower will definately come in handy.
 
I am going to seal off the damper area so I won't lose heat up there....
I wonder if it will perfom as good or Better than the nc-13i insert???
 
My stove sits in the fireplace. Works just fine. I say you should just do it and see what happens!
 
Danno77 said:
My stove sits in the fireplace. Works just fine. I say you should just do it and see what happens!

I like that mentality!!! Probably just going to do it...At least the thermostat for the 1st floor (oil fired furnace) is in the same room as the fireplace!! that room might be 70 degrees and the rest of the floor 45...who cares.

I already have a cap, I am guessing I can run the liner up the chimney and stop the liner at the top and just secure it in place. The cap should prevent rain or anything correct?
 
Ramcononer said:
I already have a cap, I am guessing I can run the liner up the chimney and stop the liner at the top and just secure it in place. The cap should prevent rain or anything correct?

Make the liner go past the top plate by a few inches at least. As for the bottom block of plate, consider insulating above the plate as well. Matter of fact, if you are doing it right, insulate the whole liner. A few bags of the pour in stuff will help considerably.

To recap - from bottom to top - bottom block off with insulation - liner up past where top plate is, insulate liner, place and seal top plate and then cap it.
 
Jags said:
Ramcononer said:
I already have a cap, I am guessing I can run the liner up the chimney and stop the liner at the top and just secure it in place. The cap should prevent rain or anything correct?

Make the liner go past the top plate by a few inches at least. As for the bottom block of plate, consider insulating above the plate as well. Matter of fact, if you are doing it right, insulate the whole liner. A few bags of the pour in stuff will help considerably.

To recap - from bottom to top - bottom block off with insulation - liner up past where top plate is, insulate liner, place and seal top plate and then cap it.

Ok, I read about 3000 pages on building a block off plate at the bottom. As far as the top, is this what I want :

http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=6"+top+plate&rls=com.microsoft:en-us&oe=UTF-8&startIndex;=&startPage=1&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=15057228028883533376&sa=X&ei=yVLWToukCqfa0QHkidiXAg&ved=0CFIQ8wIwAw#


If so, how do I seal that off? Hi temp silicone?? YOu guys are a god send!!
 
you can just get the entire kit from several places, including chimneylinerinc
 
Ramcononer said:
If so, how do I seal that off? Hi temp silicone?? YOu guys are a god send!!

That would work just fine. Yes silicone is a common seal for the top plate. And as said above, some kits will come with all the stuff (not the insulation, though).
 
Jags said:
Ramcononer said:
If so, how do I seal that off? Hi temp silicone?? YOu guys are a god send!!

That would work just fine. Yes silicone is a common seal for the top plate. And as said above, some kits will come with all the stuff (not the insulation, though).

Awesome!! I think I will order the NC-13 free standing stove tonight....hopefully have it running by Xmas....
Its been pretty damn warm here in the North East though....69 degrees in Late november, but I am not complaining!!!!

Any good recommendations on a kit??

PS. I love your sig about the fat poor people
 
Get the insert. Less heat loss to the masonry surrounding it and you can service the blower from the front without having to pull the stove out of the fireplace.
 
BrotherBart said:
Get the insert. Less heat loss to the masonry surrounding it and you can service the blower from the front without having to pull the stove out of the fireplace.

The proverbial "wrench" thrown into my plan!!! I would rather an insert but I cannot afford the one I want at this point. The plan was to get a free standing stove under $600 and learn about collecting wood, burning wood etc. Then once I have enough money, I was going to sell the free standing unit and buy a more decorative, higher end insert...

Is this idea crap? The goal is to keep the downstairs of my center hall colonial above "my 2 year olds feet are ice cubes." Socks are not an option.

The house is just about 2000 sq ft with 1100 being downstairs. The stove or insert will be in the room where we spend most of our time anyway.....
 
Go for it. Just thought ya needed to think about the blower thing.
 
BrotherBart said:
Go for it. Just thought ya needed to think about the blower thing.

The Fireplace is quite large at over 36" wide 28" tall and over 25" deep. I should be able to manuver the thing around if I need to service the blower on the free standing unit...I just hope the unit isn't under powered for my goal.

This forum is awesome and has taught me a lot already....

Is the concensus that free standing stoves heat better?
 
Usually they do, but not always. Heat can get trapped in the smoke bell below the damper and then it will mostly be heating up the brick . I you are going to do a freestanding stove consider making the block off plate at the lintel level and insulate above it to remedy this potential issue. I concur on the full liner suggestion. This set up is not going to be one you are taking apart to clean out the crude accumulating around a stub.
 
BeGreen said:
Usually they do, but not always. Heat can get trapped in the smoke bell below the damper and then it will mostly be heating up the brick . I you are going to do a freestanding stove consider making the block off plate at the lintel level and insulate above it to remedy this potential issue. I concur on the full liner suggestion. This set up is not going to be one you are taking apart to clean out the crude accumulating around a stub.

Pardon my inexperience, but I am unsure of what the lintel is? I was going to insulate above the block off plate as described in poor mans block off plate.

Also, what is the crude accumulating around a stub?? I apologize for my noviceness!!
 
Ramcononer said:
BrotherBart said:
Go for it. Just thought ya needed to think about the blower thing.

The Fireplace is quite large at over 36" wide 28" tall and over 25" deep. I should be able to manuver the thing around if I need to service the blower on the free standing unit...I just hope the unit isn't under powered for my goal.

This forum is awesome and has taught me a lot already....

Is the concensus that free standing stoves heat better?

Your fireplace is 28" tall. Will that stove fit and have enough room to connect the flue?
 
pinewoodburner said:
Ramcononer said:
BrotherBart said:
Go for it. Just thought ya needed to think about the blower thing.

The Fireplace is quite large at over 36" wide 28" tall and over 25" deep. I should be able to manuver the thing around if I need to service the blower on the free standing unit...I just hope the unit isn't under powered for my goal.

This forum is awesome and has taught me a lot already....

Is the concensus that free standing stoves heat better?

Your fireplace is 28" tall. Will that stove fit and have enough room to connect the flue?

28 is the opening...its a lot bigger once inside...I have NC13 spec'd at 26" I might have to "Tilt" it in depending on how much the collar sticks out unless that is taken into consideration.
 
Ramcononer, the widest part of the 13NC is the top plate, which I just measured, and is 25 3/8".

I had to tilt the stove forward and walk it back into the firebox so I could get the liner - adapter - flue collar to all fit together...took me three days to figure that out, doh!
 
delp said:
Ramcononer, the widest part of the 13NC is the top plate, which I just measured, and is 25 3/8".

I had to tilt the stove forward and walk it back into the firebox so I could get the liner - adapter - flue collar to all fit together...took me three days to figure that out, doh!

Thanks man!!! I was expecting to have to finagle it a bit to make it work...width i am fine on, My opening is over 36" wide...The height is 28" That is the tight squeeze!!
 
oh, jeez...height to top of flue collar is 28 1/2"....hope you have a periscope and strong, long, skinny arms!
 
delp said:
oh, jeez...height to top of flue collar is 28 1/2"....hope you have a periscope and strong, long, skinny arms!

Is that with the legs or pedestal?? Worse case I can cut the legs 1"??????
Luckily there is room on the sides to work on connecting the thing... Gonna be tight, but once its past the one brick it opens up
 
delp said:
sorry, meant to add that that's the height on the ped
Hmm...I wonder if the legs are shorter...either way, Ill figure a way...thanks to this forum and your help!!!
 
might just call englander and see if legs from different stoves are different heights, ( or look on their website) and ask whether they're interchangeable between stoves...but, legs that came with my 13 are 6 1/2" tall. I think it would be weird to cut/modify them, but I'm no welder/fabricator. At the bottom of the foot there's a threaded bolt for adjusting level...my came with the ped attached, which is what I wanted.
 
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