I just installed a Hearthstone Heritage stove through an existing fireplace chimney using about 20’ feet of Magnaflux Insulflex chimney liner. I brought the chimney liner directly into the back of the stove using a ss coupler that came with the liner rather than using black stovepipe. Last night I started the first break-in fire where I got the stove up to about 200 degrees then let it cool back down to room temp. This morning, I did the second break-in to let the stove get up to 300 degrees. I noticed that when I adjusted the air control damper all the way to the right (less intake air), the fire still burned pretty well although at a slightly reduced rate. I kinda thought that with the air control all the way to the right, the air supply should be completely shutoff causing the fire to slowly extinguish. Instead, with the air control all the way to the right, the fire continues to burn rather well and I can even hear the air being sucked in the air intake chamber on the back of the stove. Is this normal operation? Should the stove still be sucking in plenty of air with the air control all the way to the right. My last stove, being a Vermont Castings Vigilant, I was able to pretty much close off the air supply causing the fire to distinguish rather quickly. I’m a little leery to fire up the Heritage with a big fire unless I can validate that this is normal operation for this stove.
Heritage First Burn-Intake Air Control Question
- Thread starter landrand
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
- Status
BrowningBAR
Minister of Fire
landrand said:
Yes, the stove is running correctly. An EPA stove can not be shut off and be allowed to smolder.
And I own both, a Vigilant and a Heritage and run them at the same time.
Dakotas Dad
Minister of Fire
While I don't run a Heritage, I do know for sure that is the way they are designed (modern stoves). I took my air control off, and it was made in such a way that there is NO WAY you can close it all the way. And of course, as you "heard", there is no way to control part of the air at all. I have a really strong draft, 24 feet of triple wall chimney in a chase. I have been toying with the idea of building a box, kind of like an OAK, but with a gate, that I could use to control the flow, and mounting it so the rear air intake is plumbed thru it.
The EPA Clean Burn stoves only allow you to shut the air down 80%.
Not 100% like the old smoke dragons. You will always get AT LEAST
20% of the maximum combustion air entering the firebox, & it'll come
in thru the secondary burn tubes, NOT the primary air dog house...
Not 100% like the old smoke dragons. You will always get AT LEAST
20% of the maximum combustion air entering the firebox, & it'll come
in thru the secondary burn tubes, NOT the primary air dog house...
BrowningBAR
Minister of Fire
I'm sure I'm going to like this new Heritage stove, but I'm also learning how much I like my ole VC Vigilant. Using the Vigilant controls, an air intake control and a direct flue bypass lever (or whatever its called), I was really able to control how I wanted the stove to function. I would load the wood through the top, get a roaring fire for a few minutes, flip the flue bypass lever and it would then cruise along at a nice steady 300 degrees (As read on the stove pipe). With the flue bypass lever engaged, it would always bring down the temps go to a nice slow steady 300 or so degrees. If I wanted a little more heat, I would turn up the air control and it would bump it up up to maybe 400 degrees and that was it. No worry about over firing the stove. If the fire ever did "get out of control" and start producing high temps, I would engage the flue bypass lever, shut off the air, and soon the fire would pretty much die down.
With the Heritage stove, I'm wondering if a stove pipe damper might be a good idea to provide more burn control. To me anyway, it seems that if I want the fire out sooner rather than later, I should have the capability. Especially in an emergency situation.
With the Heritage stove, I'm wondering if a stove pipe damper might be a good idea to provide more burn control. To me anyway, it seems that if I want the fire out sooner rather than later, I should have the capability. Especially in an emergency situation.
We have a Heritage that maintains a strong draft with the air control shut down as well. I think you'll find that once shut down and your stack temps subside the fire will "tame down" and become more of a "lazy burn". We have about 22' of chimney which does affect the draft quite a lot but that higher stack temp also eliminates creosote build up which is a plus. I believe that cutting of the air supply totally would not allow the secondary burn process to not work as intended. Uncertain if you've had other stoves or not but5 our experience between a Jotul and the Hearthstone are worlds apart in operating techniques. This forum,and especially BAR {Browning Automatic Rifle? }, have given us some great tips on getting the most out of our stove. Try typing in "Heritage " in the search box and you will find a wealth of info on what to expect from these stoves and how to achieve top performance. I think you're gonna fall in love with the Heritage in a while.
BrowningBAR
Minister of Fire
DAKSY said:
On both the Encore and the Heritage the primary are does not close completely. You can see this directly with the Encore's air control in the back of the stove and you can visually see this on the Heritage as you can actually see the air coming in from the primary when the air controls are fully "closed".
So far I've only started two small "burn in" fires in the new stove.... I agree, I have much to learn about this new stove. I'm kinda itchy to get this "bugger" really burning soon as its supposed to get down in the single digits tonight. A few days ago, my primary oil furnace broke so getting this new Heritage woodstove installed and operating was critical.
you wont have to much of a problem once you get a few fires under your belt.it is a nice mellow heat
compared to the vc.replaced the franklin with the vc in the hosre barn and still is a good stove as far as iam considred
nice to top load. run my air intake at about 90 degrees from front of the stove once fire gets going.good luck.
compared to the vc.replaced the franklin with the vc in the hosre barn and still is a good stove as far as iam considred
nice to top load. run my air intake at about 90 degrees from front of the stove once fire gets going.good luck.
BrowningBAR said:
Not the way I learned it from the Hearthstone Factory Rep, but I've only burned the Heritage on the showroom floor.
If you have more time with it than I do, I guess I stand partially corrected...
BrowningBAR
Minister of Fire
DAKSY said:
I'll see if I can get some picture of the air controls 'closed' while there is still noticeable air coming from the doghouse. Haven't had much luck, though due to reflections.
stoveguy13
Minister of Fire
the air slide on the heritaige at full open has a gap of appx. 2-21/2 inches wide of space and at the closed setting is leaving a gap of about a 1/4"
Todd
Minister of Fire
I'm still waiting to hear from someone that has tweaked those EPA stops on the air controls so they can be closed off more.
I'm really liking this new Heritage stove. Last evening I ran the stove around 350-400 degrees , maybe peaking at 450 degrees as read with the thermometer on the center top stone. It kept my 1400 sq ft house very comfortable as it was in the single digits outside. At about 1 am , the stove had what appeared to be a dieing coal fire from two small maple splits I put in a few hours earlier. I figured it would burn for about an hour more and then go out. Since I'm breaking in the stove, I decided I'd just let the fire subside and let to stove reach room temp by morning. I shut off the air and went to bed, fully expecting a cold house in the morning as it was about 8 degrees outside.
I woke up at 8:30 this morning and to my surprise, it was still warm in the house. I walk downstairs and looked at the stove; the temp gauge indicated a stove top over a 100 degrees with a nice lil bed of red hot coals inside. I threw in little paper, kindling, and some bigger splits, cracked the side door open, and within seconds, I had a nice roaring fire. After tossing in a few larger splits, in about 15 minutes I had the stove top temp over 300 degrees. I'm glad I decided to so with the Hearthstone soapstone stove.
I woke up at 8:30 this morning and to my surprise, it was still warm in the house. I walk downstairs and looked at the stove; the temp gauge indicated a stove top over a 100 degrees with a nice lil bed of red hot coals inside. I threw in little paper, kindling, and some bigger splits, cracked the side door open, and within seconds, I had a nice roaring fire. After tossing in a few larger splits, in about 15 minutes I had the stove top temp over 300 degrees. I'm glad I decided to so with the Hearthstone soapstone stove.
BrowningBAR
Minister of Fire
Now that I got a little experience with this stove, it looks like my Heritage tends to "cruise" at a temp of about 525 degrees with the air control turned all the way down. I've occasionally hit 550 too. To me, that seems like it may be a little hot for air turned all the way down. Also, my stove periodically makes "clinking/clanking" noises at this temp. Is this normal? What temps do most people get when cruising with the box loaded with very dry hardwood (maple) and air turned all the way down?
Maybe tomorrow I should do the dollar bill test to make sure all my door gaskets are properly sealed. The other day, I took the door latch off the side door to lube with graphite and high temp anti seize lubricant. Maybe I didn't re-install it so that the side door has a tight fit. There's no question that the door latch is a very poor design and I am willing to bet will cause plenty of problems in the future. I cringe every time I close the door when I hear the metal to metal grinding noise even after applying the anti seize lubricant.... I'm just waiting for the handle to either snap or the side cast frame to wear down where the latch becomes ineffective
Maybe tomorrow I should do the dollar bill test to make sure all my door gaskets are properly sealed. The other day, I took the door latch off the side door to lube with graphite and high temp anti seize lubricant. Maybe I didn't re-install it so that the side door has a tight fit. There's no question that the door latch is a very poor design and I am willing to bet will cause plenty of problems in the future. I cringe every time I close the door when I hear the metal to metal grinding noise even after applying the anti seize lubricant.... I'm just waiting for the handle to either snap or the side cast frame to wear down where the latch becomes ineffective
Highbeam
Minister of Fire
I agree with Browning, the heritage primary air shutter at 0% throttle lets plenty of air through the primary air entrances to the firebox. That is, both the doghouse and the airwash. The air control lever ONLY controls the primary air and it doesn't close completely, perhaps it closes to about 20% but that is awfully precise. The secondary air system always has full throttle unrestricted air flowing into it. Those tubes will flow as much air as the flue sucks.
One way to regain control of the heritage is to create a shutter over the intake at the rear of the stove. The heritage is unique in that 100% of combustion air runs through that single hole. You close that hole and you will create a vacuum scenario in the stove which will stop combustion.
When I stuff my stove full of douglas fir, establish combustion, close air control to 0% the stove top will cruise at about 450 with flue temps at 800 according to my probe meter from condar. My chimney is 14 feet long and all vertical.
The weakness in this stove is the latches. They suck. Repairing a failed side door latch means major stove disassembly and this happens frequently. The silly little catch on the door frame is very small, weak, and prone to wear. It is also machined into the base casting which was a stupid idea IMO.
I will say that the stove works as advertised. I'm just not looking forward to the rebuild to fix the door latch.
One way to regain control of the heritage is to create a shutter over the intake at the rear of the stove. The heritage is unique in that 100% of combustion air runs through that single hole. You close that hole and you will create a vacuum scenario in the stove which will stop combustion.
When I stuff my stove full of douglas fir, establish combustion, close air control to 0% the stove top will cruise at about 450 with flue temps at 800 according to my probe meter from condar. My chimney is 14 feet long and all vertical.
The weakness in this stove is the latches. They suck. Repairing a failed side door latch means major stove disassembly and this happens frequently. The silly little catch on the door frame is very small, weak, and prone to wear. It is also machined into the base casting which was a stupid idea IMO.
I will say that the stove works as advertised. I'm just not looking forward to the rebuild to fix the door latch.
woodmiser
Feeling the Heat
Is it really that bad of a job? It looks like four screws takes the frame off. At least that's what my Equinox has. Gasket underneath.
Highbeam
Minister of Fire
woodmiser said:
Yes it really is that bad. The whole top of the stove must be removed, the long side rods removed or loosened and the side door section lifted off the rods. Those screws that you mention, on the heritage at least, hold the inner firebox iron to the actual door frame section. The door frame is where the latch is placed so you have to tear the stove down. The front door shares the stupid latch design but the screws in this case actually allow you to remove the front door latch parts without stove tear down.
But who uses the front door? The side door is so wonderful that my front door stays closed for months at a time. Only to be opened for cleaning.
woodmiser
Feeling the Heat
BrowningBAR
Minister of Fire
woodmiser
Feeling the Heat
BrowningBAR
Minister of Fire
Yes, the side door on the Heritage is much different.
Hinged on the left side and the cast iron frame work of the door extends to underneath the cast iron pillar framing that runs up the side of each corner of the stove
Hinged on the left side and the cast iron frame work of the door extends to underneath the cast iron pillar framing that runs up the side of each corner of the stove
- Status
Similar threads
