Edging for Tile Hearth?

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ChipTam

ChipTam

Burning Hunk
Dec 16, 2005
226
SE Michigan and Trinity, Newfoundland
I completed a hearth for my wood stove several years ago. It consisted of two layers of 0.5 inches Durock and a layer of 1/4" tile. I then used pieces of thin 1 1/4" wide aluminum carpet/floor trim to hide the edges of my hearth sandwich. I attached the trim to the sides of the hearth with construction adhesive and special ring shank nails made for the trim. Sadly, the trim never stayed attached for long as family members regularly knocked off pieces of it with their shoes as they passed by the hearth.

Anyway, I took off the aluminum trim recently and was going to use strips of 1/2" or 3/4" thick wood to hide the edge. However, the 130 year-old wood floor underneath the hearth is so uneven that I doubt it will look right. For example, top of hearth to the floor is 1 1/4 at one corner and more than 1 1/2" at another corner. Does anyone have a better solution for an edge treatment? Now, while I'm a big fan of Red Green, I think I'm looking for something a bit more elegant than duct tape. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.

ChipTam
 
I did that--wood, I mean. Though my material was not tile but fieldstone. I carefully mitered the corners with the table saw, etc. I used oak, since it is hard and tough and I had some scrap lying about.

For the unevenness, if you use wood, and if the unevenness is gradual from one corner to the next, simply measure that out and draw it onto the wood, then cut and trim it down with the table saw. I did not have to do that on my hearth, but I've done in on numerous other projects. If the unevenness is all over the place, corner to corner, you'll have to take as many measurements as you can stand and transfer them to the board. I would use a piece of cardboard first and a box cutter to cut the cardboard. If it isn't right, you can simply use another pc of cardboard and do it again. Once as perfect as you want, use the cardboard as a stencil and a saber saw or band saw or whatever you have to cut the wood. It will take some time, but it will be done forever once you get it and it'll look great.

My oak trim has been in place for maybe fifteen years now and it still looks really good. A bit "lived in," but good.
 
Rip a piece of wood leaving it a smidge high, say 1/8 to 1/4 high. Do NOT miter yet !!!! Use some aluminium flashing across tiles. Put cut side of Board up. Looking at the base sand down where the floor has peaks, leave valleys alone. As you go occasionally turn board over so that sanded area contacts floor. Go back and forth, sand, flip, sand, flip, a few times. You are basically custom sanding the board to the contour of the floor. Then mark and cut miter.

I have done this for someone before. Is it time consuming ? Yep. If done carefully and correctly it looks very nice.
 
I'll take a different tack here, and ask about the floor itself...............

You stated that the floor is "...........130 year-old wood floor underneath the hearth is so uneven.........."

I'm of the mind to address the issues of the floor first off, which seems more important than the trim for now. The "trim" can be done later, after you have done something about the integrity of the floor.

Can you get under the floor and get some stability, some re-enforcement, some integrity to the floor area that the stove and hearth sits on?

THAT would seem to "me" anyway, to be "priority one." It's gotta be "uneven" because it has settled, and that doesn't mean stable. The two are not synonymous.

-Soupy1957
 
Thanks so much for all of your excellent replies. Let me address soupy's question first. The 130 year-old floor is basically stable. The reason it's uneven in the hearth area is that a gigantic fireplace was removed well before we bought the house and the wood patch job for the former hearth (which was probably stone) was less than first rate. Most of the floor boards for the patch were around 1" but actual thickness varied. Anyway, when we bought the house we replaced and added a number of beams beneath the floor so that the house is now rock solid.

Thanks also to Steve and Shawn for their suggestions to scribe the boards for the edges. I had intended to do that but was concerned it wouldn't work. Either the scribing wouldn't look very neat or the miters wouldn't be dead-on. I'm glad to hear you guys were able to do it successfully. I've already ripped the boards to rough width and have left them a tad long. Next spring, when I return to Newfoundland (where the hearth is located) I'll give it a try. Shawn, were you able to cut accurate miters after scribing? Also, did you guys attach the wood strips to the edge of the hearth or did you nail them into the floor? Finally, I would still be open to some other edging material such as metal, decorative tape or plastic which would look acceptable and be easier to shape and attach. Thanks again.
 
Just another approach, and a different look....I have a built up hearth with a limestone slab that overhangs by about an inch over the base. Instead of trimming with wood I plastered the edge of the micore/durarock with thinset mortar all the way around. You can paint that if you'd like, but I left it alone. It gives the impression of a solid masonry base and is very "clean."
 
Also, I don't know that anyone has truly described how to scribe....using a scribe divider or compass. The trim carpenter's method is to temporarily attach the trim piece above the uneven surface/edge. Take one point of your scribe, or the sharp end of your compass, and place it on the uneven surface. Put the scribing end of the divider, or the pencil end of the compass on the trim board. Draw the tool across the uneven surface, maintaing contact with both surfaces. You should scribe/trace a pervect mirror image of your floor. After that, use a scroll saw, coping saw, or something similar and cut to your line. Works like magic.
 
ploughboy said:
Also, I don't know that anyone has truly described how to scribe....using a scribe divider or compass. The trim carpenter's method is to temporarily attach the trim piece above the uneven surface/edge. Take one point of your scribe, or the sharp end of your compass, and place it on the uneven surface. Put the scribing end of the divider, or the pencil end of the compass on the trim board. Draw the tool across the uneven surface, maintaing contact with both surfaces. You should scribe/trace a pervect mirror image of your floor. After that, use a scroll saw, coping saw, or something similar and cut to your line. Works like magic.
Click to expand...

Well said!
 
<family is from Newfoundland (Cape Ray)

-Soupy1957
 
How bout some pics? I'm with you on old houses. Mine is 80 years old and everytime you do something you have to make a decison, "Do you want it level or square" cause you ain't getting both in this house. Maybe some pics could help us give you some ideas.
 
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