Hearthstone Heritage questions

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bob1170

Member
Jan 2, 2011
8
Southwest VA
It's my second season with the Heritage. Last year went fine, generally, after filling the house with smoke the first two fires... but that's another story. I have a couple of questions: first, the manual says to always build a "break in" fire the first fire of the season, and whenever the stove hasn't been used in "some time." Has anyone ever had a problem along these lines? Ever heard of a stone cracking, or whatever disaster this procedure is intended to prevent? and just how long is "some time?" Not a big deal, of course, but if I could avoid these warm, smoky, creosote producing fires, I would.
Secondly, how do you move this stove out from the wall for cleaning? I've been using a 2X8 as a lever to lift under the sides to get some sliders under the feet, but the person related to me by marriage who shares the house with me says I'm going to crack something. Is she right? again?

Thanks to all for a tremendous resource for all us newbies.
 
Welcome to the forum Bob.

By building the break-in fires you take the moisture out of the stone, so it is good. If you left the stove alone for a month, I'd consider that "some time." Perhaps less than a month depending upon the humidity situation in the house. The stones can crack and still be useable. Using a lever shouldn't pose a problem for the stove but might for the user. lol Those things are heavy.
 
Ah, the moisture. That makes sense. Thanks. Oh, and yes the darn thing is heavy -- you gotta have a loooong 2x8.
 
I couldn't imagine moving the stove for cleaning behind it. Can't you get behind it with a vacuum attachment or a some type of swiffer type cleaner? They list a 7" rear clearance with double wall and rear shield, that sounds like plenty of room for cleaning.

"I’ve been using a 2X8 as a lever to lift under the sides to get some sliders under the feet"

Are you prying directly against the bottom/edge of the stove? I could see that going horribly wrong with a cast/stone stove, a steel stove I wouldn't think twice about it.
 
If this stove is installed in front of an old fireplace then it can be pretty much slammed against the bricks or even inside it. I would not move the stove for cleaning the floor but perhaps you have a section of flue back there that can only be accessed by moving the stove? Ugh, that's not so good.

Every year in the fall we have shorter and smaller shoulder season fires. The first one of the year is my annual break in fire and I only let it get hot enough that I can still keep my hand on it. I certainly don't do the three fire break in sequence that the manual requires for a new stove.

You are most likely to crack a stone by overfire.
 
Thanks for the advice. You got it, Highbeam. We bricked over an existing fireplace, and I need to move the stove out to clean a short piece of pipe that goes into the thimble. We put in a clean out on the outside, but I can't really get to that piece of pipe from there. I thought about moving the stove out permanently, so I could get the pipe off without moving the stove, but my wife says aesthetically, it's no good. It's better to look good than to feel good, if you know what I'm saying.
Seems to me that piece of cast is designed to carry the weight of the stone, so if I'm gentlle with it, I should be ok.
 
Tell you what I would do, I would pop out the baffle plate and shove the brush into that rear flue exit from the front door of the stove. The baffle comes out easily with three cotter pins and then you have a pretty clear shot to the inside of the stove's outlet. Worth a try. The cast iron base is not designed to carry the weight of the stove as you describe it. The base is designed to carry the load of the stove by transferring that weight to the stove's four legs at certain locations.
 
great ideas -- I think I'll try them both. I think that adjustable pipe will fit, and I'd like to get that pipe out, since it'll probably have to be replaced at some point anyway. If i can remove the baffle and get a straight shot at the thimble from the front of the stove, I can clean everything without moving anything. If I'm not mistaken, you're supposed to take that baffle out to do a proper cleaning, anyway, aren't you?
Thanks!
 
It is not required to remove the baffle for a proper cleaning unless your setup dictates it. For example, my vertical flue requires that I remove the baffle plate or the chimney connector pipe to remove the swept creosote. If you can remove the flue from the stove then there's no reason you couldn't vacuum out the top of the baffle from the collar.

But heck, it sure beats moving the stove.
 
Got it. Looks like I'm removing the baffle and leaving the stove where it is. That makes me very happy.

By the way, just out of curiosity, how would you move the stove if you couldn't avoid it?
 
When I move my stove around on the hearth I just get on one side lift under the frame and scoot it forward a few inches then go to the other side and do the same. Kind a crab walk it away from the wall.
 
Like Todd, by hand one whole side at a time. I would avoid lifting the stove by one corner by levering. Probably try to grab the top corners of the stove with my palms if I had to lift the legs up onto a shim of some sort.

To just slide the stove around on my tile hearth I can simply grab onto a leg with my fingers pinky down and put the side of my palm on the floor. Then using your grip strength, squeeze your fingers towards your wrist to scoot each leg a half inch at a time. I only do this if I think the stove has walked.
 
Ok, remind me to call you guys "sir" and not give you any trouble. There is no way I'm going to lift one end of my stove, and I can't slide it unless I get some of those big furniture mover sliders under the feet. That was going to be my plan -- a big 2X8 or even 2X10, to cover as much of the span of the cast piece as possible, a 4x4 for a fulcrum, and then just lift it enough for my wife to slip the sliders under the feet. I guess if I had a tile hearth, or something smooth, I could slide it, but our hearth is natural stone, and pretty uneven at that. Looks nice, but inconvenient in this case.
 
It sure looks nice in your avatar photo. Is that black enamel? If I could do it over I would have chosen the gloss black too.

Don't go and bust the stove trying to lever it on your own. If you can't do it safely yourself then maybe get a couple of helpers. Don't lever off of the ash pan casting either as it is thin. Better yet, come up with a way to clean that pipe without moving the stove. Mine has not moved for several years and I would say that most folks plan to pretty much leave 500 lb rocks where they set.
 
Highbeam said:
I would say that most folks plan to pretty much leave 500 lb rocks where they set.

Yeah, with the amount of stove moving I do, that Heritage is staying right were I placed it a year ago. Of all the stoves I've moved, that SOB is the most unforgiving stove I have ever lifted. I hated moving that thing.
 
I'm glad to say I don't plan to move my 500 pounder any time soon. Highbeam, it's actually brown, not black. The photo is a little dark. We picked the brown because it goes better with the other stuff we have. At least that's what my wife says.
 
bobk said:
Ok, remind me to call you guys "sir" and not give you any trouble. There is no way I'm going to lift one end of my stove, and I can't slide it unless I get some of those big furniture mover sliders under the feet. That was going to be my plan -- a big 2X8 or even 2X10, to cover as much of the span of the cast piece as possible, a 4x4 for a fulcrum, and then just lift it enough for my wife to slip the sliders under the feet. I guess if I had a tile hearth, or something smooth, I could slide it, but our hearth is natural stone, and pretty uneven at that. Looks nice, but inconvenient in this case.


wow.... I think I'll do one better and call them Mr. Sir! ....I'm having visions of The Incredible Hulk....
 
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