Whitfield Tradition T300P-2 : Poor combustion

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Brune

Member
Dec 12, 2010
19
Sherbrooke, Canada
Hello,
I have been trying to figure out what is wrong with my stove. The stove does not work well, lazy flame and soot. Stove is a Whitfield Tradition. Even a candle can stay on in the stove, proving that air circulation is extremely restricted somehow.

I cleaned the exhaust system of the stove and chimney well, but did not seem to help. Then, I put the magnahelic probe on it to get some draft measurements. I could not read anything (looks like a plugged stove or a combustion blower problem). The air damper was open at 100%. In order to knmwo if the problem was chimney related, I decided to disconnect the chimney from the stove. Then, started-up and shutted down the stove in order to see if the combustion blower was running and pushing some air. I found the combustion blower to work, but it does no air is coming out of it, strange ??

I am thinking that maybe the shaft is broken or the blower is plugged with ash ? Therefore, I need to remove the combustion blower and inspect it, as well as cleaning the pipe sections close to the blower. There is not enough room behind the stove. In fact this is pretty tight in there and I wonder how in world is it possible to change a combustion blower on that stove. Is anyone of you have an idea of how to get a decent access of the heart of the stove (mechanical parts, blower, etc). I tried Yesterday, but there are two screws that I just can't remove to get the blower. Is there any trick to get more clearance ??

Thanks for your advice here,
 
only thing you can do really to get more space is to undo the exhaust flange (4 bolts) and move the stove a bit. you will likely have to replace the "quick disconnect" gasket that goes on the flange.
 
Yep, did that already....and as you said, had to change the gasket. Still have not enough room to get those two bolts deeper into the stove.
 
IIRC you can remove the blower in 2 different ways. You could remove the motor from the housing (smaller bolts, inside radius) or split the blower housing (larger bolts, wider radius) either way you'll need 1 of the 2 gaskets that go in there as well. Usually easier to get the larger ones, but it may require a long extension for socket wrench. NOt uncommon on that unit, at that age, is the gasket for the damper dislodging and getting stuck in the path of the exhaust, so goive that a look-see.
 
Great idea, thanks for the advice...I will certainly try both options, but will got to the store and get some gaskets firts.

Again, thank you, I appreciate.
 
its free on lennoxhearthproducts.com...just do a search for T300P and you'll find it.
 
Delta-T said:
Stovensen said:
The operation/installation manual is free:

http://www.whitfield.com/resources/manual/Lennox_Hearth_T300_Installation_775025.pdf

The complete service manual, however, is another thing... :)

I'm afraid you'll have to pay $9.99 for it at Woodheatstoves.com. That's cheap IMHO

ah, different. hmmm. wonder what secret knowledge they have stored away in that little piece of literature? ;-)

The operation/installation manual does have the wiring diagram on page 28. So far so good, but there is no exploded-view drawing of how all the parts in the stove are assembled. Maybe this is included in the svc manual?

My Whitfield stove is very service friendly. For instance, in order to get access to the combustion blower, all I have to do is unscrew a single sheet metal screw in the front and then the whole side panel can be flipped aside ( it is hinged at the rear ) and voila... all the interior parts in one side are revealed.
The T300P, however, has an exterior made of cast iron, so maybe this stove is totally different, i don't know, but a little scrutiny with a flashlight and a magnifying glass may uncover some hidden screws and hinges :roll:
 
Hummm, interesting....will maybe there is a way to open from the side on the Tradition. I tried again from the back and there is no way I can remove that blower from there. There is certainly a trick that allow a good access to the interior.
 
I have the same stove - get ready for some fun

disconnect power

Remove the vent at appliance adapter
Remove the cast top
Remove the rear panel
Remove the screw holding the control unit in (on face of control) - disconnect wiring harness' and remove control
Remove rear sheet metal shroud
Disconnect wiring from auger motor
Using an allen key loosen auger coupling and remove auger motor
Disconnect silicon tubing from combustion blower housing
Disconnect combustion blower motor

Using a 1/2" socket (from memory), 6" extension and swivel remove entire combustion housing
There is a nut over by the convection blower that is easy to miss

Once all of the nuts are off, wiggle the blower up/down and it will just about fall out
When removing the housing the damper will fall out - it simply sits between the firebox and blower housing (makes it fun to reassemble)
A couple of twists may be needed to get it completely out but be careful of the ignitor (sp?)


Aaron
 
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