Getting ready to install my new PF100, just ordered duct work, fittings, and pellett vent. Called my dealer to get prices on the distribution blower (I did not buy it at the time I got my furnace). Their prices seem kind of steep. It's my understanding they are Dayton blowers. Does anybody have the part #s for the three sizes for this unit? Is there a 3rd party availability...seems you can source everything else HVAC online. Thanks!
Harman PF100 distribution blower
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Got the Part # from the Harman parts diagram...can't find it cheaper anywhere, especially online. Unless you have some special Dayton blower hook-up, your dealer's price is probably fair.
But on grainger I have seen 2000 cfm dayton direct drive blowers going for like $300. I don't know why they wouldn't work.
ironpony
Minister of Fire
kinsmanstoves
Minister of Fire
kinsman stoves [email said:
Ok there are currently dayton direct drive blowers on grainger that are 2000 cfm for $300. That better
My 1450cfm was $469 plus tax. Couldn't find a better price online...and I bought EVERYTHING for my PF100 online (duct, fittings, vent pipe). I'm sure you could make a lot of things work based on dimensions but considering this is going to be mounted to my multi-thousand dollar investment, I didn't think saving a hundred bucks was worth some office-junkie telling me they won't honor my warranty now.
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
Ksuwildcat2010.
In addition to things like CFM you have to consider any load the distribution blower is going to place on its control system and how much you are going to depend upon any warranty service.
Then you have to consider what the actual ductwork is going to be able to handle before it causes problems for the blower forcing it to draw more than its nominal amperage thus possibly being an overload on its controller.
I've seen gasoline in the sub 20 cent range.
In addition to things like CFM you have to consider any load the distribution blower is going to place on its control system and how much you are going to depend upon any warranty service.
Then you have to consider what the actual ductwork is going to be able to handle before it causes problems for the blower forcing it to draw more than its nominal amperage thus possibly being an overload on its controller.
I've seen gasoline in the sub 20 cent range.
I have considered most of that, that is why I would like a model number at it so that i could look at cfm based on static pressure. I had not thought about amperage, but they do offer a 1700 cfm model, i would think it would be similar. I mainly just want information on it so that i could see if it worked, and compare it to other Dayton models. Plus I did the install myself so i'm a little worried they won't want to cover me under warranty anyways.
The fact is that a blower motor is a blower motor, as long as you can get it mounted you should be fine. I used the blower motor out of my old rudd furnace and it works great. The furnace doesnt know or care that the right brand name is on the part that you install with it. I used the same air condictioning hook up in mine too, works perfectly. Good luck either way you go.
Oh sorry, was going to answer a question about the static pressure too. All static pressure is referring to is to make sure you hook it up to a duct system so that the pressure in the duct adds alittle back pressure to the motor so it doesn't burn itself out. I have a dayton blower motor in my shop that has NEVER been hooked up to a duct system and has acted as a fan for 5 years now with no trouble. So the warning in the book seems to be alittle misleading to say the least. Anyways, the static pressure in your duct system will be there regardless of you motor you use. If you really want to be "safe" about it, just check that there is the correct amps on whatever blower you use.
archie79 said:
Well why i was curious is because a blower will have higher or lower cfm's based on the static pressure in the duct. Also some fans work at different static pressure's. So I was curious how the stock 1000 cfm blower did at different static pressures so i could best match it will a larger blower. But maybe i'll just get one and see how it goes.
Just because it was a DIY install, shouldn't void your warranty...as long as you did it right! Followed the manual, right vent pipe and setup, right duct work dimensions, no modifications to the unit - pretty straight forward stuff. Biggest thing is to get your warranty paper filled out, completely and correctly - which includes a low-draft reading. My dealer said for a standard service call fee, they would send a tech out to look everything over and take a draft reading for me...sounds like a good investment.
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