Anyone have a jig set up to quickly recut wood thats too long?

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BigBadJohn86

Member
Oct 10, 2010
48
Southern, IL
I cut a decent sized jickory last year just to get it out of the way but I cut a lot of the sections too long. My stove barely takes 18" logs so a lot of this wood I have to throw back on the rack. Does anyone have any home built jig to recut wood quickly?
I was thinking of taking an electric chainsaw and putting the motor side on a pivot and making a handle so I can pivot it and have a v shaped valley to lay wood in with a stop so it makes 16" cuts every time
 
YOu mean like this?

Chain_Saw_Log_Stand.jpg
 
or this?

388272765_657.jpg
 
Yeah. Only I had the idea to have the motor on the opposite side and have a long handle going across the jig to the other side where I was standing, and having an electric foot pedal for safety
I didnt know they made them for sale
 
BigBadJohn86 said:
I cut a decent sized jickory last year just to get it out of the way but I cut a lot of the sections too long. My stove barely takes 18" logs so a lot of this wood I have to throw back on the rack. Does anyone have any home built jig to recut wood quickly?
I was thinking of taking an electric chainsaw and putting the motor side on a pivot and making a handle so I can pivot it and have a v shaped valley to lay wood in with a stop so it makes 16" cuts every time


https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/48955/


This is one I made, they have some that are made better than this but can't remember the members name.


zap
 
LLigetfa said:
YOu mean like this?

Chain_Saw_Log_Stand.jpg

Anybody know of a supplier/dealer of these in Canada? I've been looking for one of these for awhile....
 
LLigetfa said:

Does anyone have one of these or used one of these or made one of these?

Looks interesting but the dealer is in China/nothing US/Canada?
 
I usually save up a wheelbarrow full of over long splits and then cut them up on a bandsaw. Only takes a couple minutes.

The big question is wether to cut them in half or just lop a little puck off the end...
 
I try hard to cut each round to my preferred length. Sometimes it doesn't work out. If I have to recut, I'll cut a stub off the end to give me the length I want, rather than cut it in half, which makes it harder to stack. I toss the stubbies into the pile with the uglies and burn them in a year or two.
 
Thanks for all of the ideas. I'm going through every link and every link that stems from that taking ideas from each one.
I'm thinking about finding a cheap used electric chainsaw and running it off of an electric foot pedal switch for safety
I had thought of a way to sandwich the bar with a mount that had a long bolt coming off of it for a hinge, but then I saw one guy had just drilled a hole through his bar and ran a bolt though it. I've always been one to over engineer things that don't need to be :eek:
 
One problem I see with the electric chainsaw is that it will require you to move all those over sized rounds up to the house for trimming. I'd rather just rig up a box out of 2x4s and zap the protruding ends with my real chain saw.
 
Kenster said:
One problem I see with the electric chainsaw is that it will require you to move all those over sized rounds up to the house for trimming. I'd rather just rig up a box out of 2x4s and zap the protruding ends with my real chain saw.

pun intended?
 
Kenster said:
One problem I see with the electric chainsaw is that it will require you to move all those over sized rounds up to the house for trimming. I'd rather just rig up a box out of 2x4s and zap the protruding ends with my real chain saw.
All of my firewood racks are within 50 foot of the house. I was thinking of throwing the long pieces in a pile every time I find one when getting wood and then after I get enough, cutting them up
 
BigBadJohn86 said:
Kenster said:
One problem I see with the electric chainsaw is that it will require you to move all those over sized rounds up to the house for trimming. I'd rather just rig up a box out of 2x4s and zap the protruding ends with my real chain saw.
All of my firewood racks are within 50 foot of the house. I was thinking of throwing the long pieces in a pile every time I find one when getting wood and then after I get enough, cutting them up

That'll work. You can easily reach your pile with a 50 - 75 foot cord.
 
Plus I'd rather drill holes through a bar on an electric chainsaw I paid $25 for instead of filling holes in a chainsaw I paid ten times that for
 
Shari said:
LLigetfa said:

Does anyone have one of these or used one of these or made one of these?

Looks interesting but the dealer is in China/nothing US/Canada?

I thought I saw something like that in Northern Tools catalog.
 
weatherguy said:
I thought I saw something like that in Northern Tools catalog.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200485188_200485188

20668_lg.jpg
 
Personally, I like to try sticking it in the stove and get the end caught on fire before I realize that the piece is too long.
 
LLigetfa said:
weatherguy said:
I thought I saw something like that in Northern Tools catalog.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200485188_200485188

20668_lg.jpg

Well.... here's a couple of comments:

I. If this frame were built out of wood with the only metal being the bracket holding the saw then I think it would be a great idea. I have a phobia of getting my chainsaw chain anywhere NEAR metal.

II. I have built the "H" frame limb holder and the traditional saw horse but there are limitations to each of those as follows:

A. On the "H" frame, while it works great, you can't put limbs in it that are too long or you stand a chance of your H frame tipping forward. Now, the H frame could be modified to stop a possible forward tip if a forward base attachment were added to legs of the H frame for balance - however - then the saw person has to watch out that they don't trip on those extended base legs while running the saw. Could be a bad experience! :)

i. Depending on the stability of the Wel Bilt model it's possible to get longer limbs in the cradle than you could with the originally designed H frame.

B. On the method of cutting with the sawhorse - I always seem to be dropping cut splits down through the sawhorse and then have to bend over to pick up all the cuts - I'm not getting any younger and repetitive bending shortens my work day. :)

ii. On this Wel Bilt model you would probably be limited to one branch at a time depending on diameter of rounds - BUT - if you staged a trailer or coaster wagon on the cut off side it's possible to literally let the cuts fall into a transport wheeled item which does not require repetitive bending - a GOOD thing.

Conclusion: There's possibilities with this Wel Bilt design - but made out of wood frame instead of metal would be better in my opinion.

PS I don't own the Wel Bilt - haven't even seen it in person.
 
Shari said:
LLigetfa said:
weatherguy said:
I thought I saw something like that in Northern Tools catalog.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200485188_200485188

20668_lg.jpg

Well.... here's a couple of comments:

I. If this frame were built out of wood with the only metal being the bracket holding the saw then I think it would be a great idea. I have a phobia of getting my chainsaw chain anywhere NEAR metal.

II. I have built the "H" frame limb holder and the traditional saw horse but there are limitations to each of those as follows:

A. On the "H" frame, while it works great, you can't put limbs in it that are too long or you stand a chance of your H frame tipping forward. Now, the H frame could be modified to stop a possible forward tip if a forward base attachment were added to legs of the H frame for balance - however - then the saw person has to watch out that they don't trip on those extended base legs while running the saw. Could be a bad experience! :)

i. Depending on the stability of the Wel Bilt model it's possible to get longer limbs in the cradle than you could with the originally designed H frame.

B. On the method of cutting with the sawhorse - I always seem to be dropping cut splits down through the sawhorse and then have to bend over to pick up all the cuts - I'm not getting any younger and repetitive bending shortens my work day. :)

ii. On this Wel Bilt model you would probably be limited to one branch at a time depending on diameter of rounds - BUT - if you staged a trailer or coaster wagon on the cut off side it's possible to literally let the cuts fall into a transport wheeled item which does not require repetitive bending - a GOOD thing.

Conclusion: There's possibilities with this Wel Bilt design - but made out of wood frame instead of metal would be better in my opinion.

PS I don't own the Wel Bilt - haven't even seen it in person.
Ill be getting that just what I have been looking for!!! Thanks
 
Shari said:
LLigetfa said:
weatherguy said:
I thought I saw something like that in Northern Tools catalog.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200485188_200485188

Well.... here's a couple of comments:

I. If this frame were built out of wood with the only metal being the bracket holding the saw then I think it would be a great idea. I have a phobia of getting my chainsaw chain anywhere NEAR metal.

II. I have built the "H" frame limb holder and the traditional saw horse but there are limitations to each of those as follows:

A. On the "H" frame, while it works great, you can't put limbs in it that are too long or you stand a chance of your H frame tipping forward. Now, the H frame could be modified to stop a possible forward tip if a forward base attachment were added to legs of the H frame for balance - however - then the saw person has to watch out that they don't trip on those extended base legs while running the saw. Could be a bad experience! :)

i. Depending on the stability of the Wel Bilt model it's possible to get longer limbs in the cradle than you could with the originally designed H frame.

B. On the method of cutting with the sawhorse - I always seem to be dropping cut splits down through the sawhorse and then have to bend over to pick up all the cuts - I'm not getting any younger and repetitive bending shortens my work day. :)

ii. On this Wel Bilt model you would probably be limited to one branch at a time depending on diameter of rounds - BUT - if you staged a trailer or coaster wagon on the cut off side it's possible to literally let the cuts fall into a transport wheeled item which does not require repetitive bending - a GOOD thing.

Conclusion: There's possibilities with this Wel Bilt design - but made out of wood frame instead of metal would be better in my opinion.

PS I don't own the Wel Bilt - haven't even seen it in person.
I. If you were freehand cutting, I would agree but in this case the saw is captivated and cannot contact the metal.

II.A. While not as portable, an H-frame sawbuck can have the legs pounded into the ground for stability. Handy if you do all your processing in one place.

II.B. IKWYM and have considered not having an open bottom. Also considered having double the verticals to hold the cut pieces in place. WRT to single versus bulk, I prefer to stage a whole bunch and then cut them in one fell swoop but then that is partly because once I have the running saw in hand I want to get as much done as possible. With a captivated electric saw, getting it running and picking it up/putting it down, are no longer factors.
 
I'm all for the notion of more hands lighten the workload but when it comes to a free weilding chainsaw, IMHO nobody else should be within 20 feet of it. One other guy feeding the logs to the sawbuck should be able to stay well enough out of harm's way but the third guy picking up rounds.... {{{shudder}}}

Put down the saw and two or three guys can toss.
 
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