Anyone else have a Summers Heat 50-sfp12lc, if so how is it working for you?

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BigBadJohn86

Member
Oct 10, 2010
48
Southern, IL
I live in a 112 year old farmhouse with little insulation (that will change whenever
I have time to rewire the attic from whatever cloth wire is left). I bought my summers heat stove 3 years ago and finally finished install of that and my chimney last year. I used it moderately last year, and am going to try my best at keeping the furnace from running this winter. But the fire box is too small at 1.9 cubic feet, and the ash pan is slightly deeper than a cookie baking sheet. It's rated up to 1000 square feet but with not much insulation in my 1000 square foot house, it leaves a lot to be desired.
I was interested in hearing from others that had the same stove as me or a comparable model from a sister brand to see how it works for you, how you make due with such a small stove, the best way to go about loading it and any tips or tricks you have to increase burn times
 
sounds like you need the big sister NC30 ( 3.5 ft firebox)
 
Unfortunately that is a less than desirable unit from the englander product line. It doesn't take advantage of secondary burn technology as it is a 35-1 style (basically it lets so much air through that it's exempt from emissions) and isn't very efficient or controllable and doesn't put out the heat of their other units.

Depending on how much insulation you do, a 30 is probably going to be too much of a stove. Of course, a small fire can be built in a large box.

In the meantime, burn it for what it's worth. Do you have a class A SS chimney? Does this vent directly into an old chimney? Or do you have a SS liner in an old masonry chimney?

pen
 
What your getting is prolly about all your going to get from that one.
Time to go larger.
 
pen said:
Unfortunately that is a less than desirable unit from the englander product line. It doesn't take advantage of secondary burn technology as it is a 35-1 style (basically it lets so much air through that it's exempt from emissions) and isn't very efficient or controllable and doesn't put out the heat of their other units.

Depending on how much insulation you do, a 30 is probably going to be too much of a stove. Of course, a small fire can be built in a large box.

In the meantime, burn it for what it's worth. Do you have a class A SS chimney? Does this vent directly into an old chimney? Or do you have a SS liner in an old masonry chimney?

pen
Click to expand...
I installed stainless steel insulated pipes from the ceiling to the roof. There is a 1' drop ceiling where a 2' tall tin box was made a long time ago as an intermediary fire stop for the old pipe to go through. I ran my stainless through that. The tin box doesnt touch anything except for the 2x4's its braced to. The chimney was removed a long time ago and the roof was redone. I took the boards off where they patched up the rafters and basically did a complete install with new parts. Other than the tin box that is. I used either a simpson or supervent through the roof kit, I dont quite remember which.

I hadnt decided on how much insulation I was going to go with. I was thinking of blowing anywhere from 12 to 18 inches of pink panther in the attic. I also need to replace my windows and probably doors. The walls dont have any insulation as far as I know. I was wanting to go with that non expanding foam because it doesnt settle like the other blow in stuff. The siding is origial afaik. It looks like every day siding except its wood slats. I was wanting to put that feldt paper and maybe tyvek type stuff on it and reside it with vinyl siding. Who knows when Ill do all this or in what stages though. Have to have time and money to do it and I dont seem to have much of either right now.
 
what kind of btu rating/square foot stove should I be looking at? I dont think the stove I have now will cut it at this time but Im not sure if I want to wait until I insulate my house (not to mention the burn time sucks). Then again if I get one that will work well now, it may be too much once I get my home more thermally efficient.
 
How big is the house and how open is it inside, floor plan?
When you insulate the attic, make sure you put an insulation shield around the pipe with ring around the top first.
 
BigBadJohn86 said:
I live in a 112 year old farmhouse with little insulation (that will change whenever
I have time to rewire the attic from whatever cloth wire is left). I bought my summers heat stove 3 years ago and finally finished install of that and my chimney last year. I used it moderately last year, and am going to try my best at keeping the furnace from running this winter. But the fire box is too small at 1.9 cubic feet, and the ash pan is slightly deeper than a cookie baking sheet. It's rated up to 1000 square feet but with not much insulation in my 1000 square foot house, it leaves a lot to be desired.
I was interested in hearing from others that had the same stove as me or a comparable model from a sister brand to see how it works for you, how you make due with such a small stove, the best way to go about loading it and any tips or tricks you have to increase burn times
Click to expand...


I have one and it does ok as a supplemental heat source to my upstairs Avalon Arbor. I run it mainly in the evenings when I come home from work. I agree with the above posters who state you need a bigger stove for your application. You will not maintain any duration of burn that will keep the house warm for long periods without constant feeding.
 
Insulation and draft stopping will go a long ways in home comfort.. A 75 degree home will feel cold if drafty so consider stopping drafts 1st, then insulate and finally get an epa stove to seal the deal.. I have a 2.0 cu. ft. stove for 1600 sq. ft. and so far it's been more then adequate and your home is 1000 sq. ft. so I feel you'd be fine with a 2.0 cu. ft. epa stove.. I get better than 8 hr. burns with hardwood and the house is around 75 degrees the whole time with the outside temp around 25 degrees.. To me installing an 30-nc is rediculously oversized for a 1000 sq. ft. home.. This is my opinion and I am sure others will disagree..

Ray
 
Hogwildz said:
How big is the house and how open is it inside, floor plan?
When you insulate the attic, make sure you put an insulation shield around the pipe with ring around the top first.
Click to expand...

The dining room to living room almost the whole doorway is open. The stove is facing the living room. The middle bedroom isnt really used so I leave that door closed at all times. Although in the middle of the winter that may cause a problem if I burn constant because the wall between the bath and middle bedroom near the outer wall is where the water pipes are for the shower
 

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Does anyone have any comments on how my house is set up or any suggestions on how to get the most out of my setup?
 
BigBadJohn86 said:
Does anyone have any comments on how my house is set up or any suggestions on how to get the most out of my setup?
Click to expand...

Point box fans on low towards stove room, bedroom 2 may be cold ...

Ray
 
raybonz said:
BigBadJohn86 said:
Does anyone have any comments on how my house is set up or any suggestions on how to get the most out of my setup?
Click to expand...

Point box fans on low towards stove room, bedroom 2 may be cold ...

Ray
Click to expand...
bedroom 2 and bedroom 3 are not really used. Bedroom 3 has my pc but I always use the laptop instead. My only concern is pipes freezing but I can always run heat tape
 
BigBadJohn86 said:
raybonz said:
BigBadJohn86 said:
Does anyone have any comments on how my house is set up or any suggestions on how to get the most out of my setup?
Click to expand...

Point box fans on low towards stove room, bedroom 2 may be cold ...

Ray
Click to expand...
bedroom 2 and bedroom 3 are not really used. Bedroom 3 has my pc but I always use the laptop instead. My only concern is pipes freezing but I can always run heat tape
Click to expand...

Been there on the 2nd floor made quite a mess too..

Ray
 
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