I MADE THINGS A LOT WORSE!!!!!!!!!!!!

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AppalachianStan

AppalachianStan

Minister of Fire
Nov 4, 2011
557
Clover SC
Hi guy Its Mr hard time here a gone.

I made things a lot worse by putting new gaskets on my stove. Now it will not draft at all. It is not my wood I bought some ECO blocks from Tractor Supply and I have 2 blocks in the stove right now that are just smoldering away. My chimney system is 14 feet 8" round. Why buy cats when I can't even get the stove up to temp.

I have 9 Feet of 8" Super Vent Chimney system, 54" of 8" black stove pipe for sale
What is it worth? So I can put it on CL.
 
Sounds like you should probably address the actual problem rather than selling it? Did you install the new gaskets properly? Is your rain cap clean?
 
Check to see if the latch itself is adjustable. To test the seal stick a dallar bill between the door and stove and shut it if you cant remove it then its tight. If thats not it check your damper and see if its stuck ( that happened to me once ). Your rain cap may be clogged as project240 said. If this was happining before as well then it could be as simple as adding a pipe to the chimney and increasing the draft. I have no idea what used pipe sells for either.

Hope this helps.
Pete
 
I'm not familiar with those stove, but are you certain the air intake is opening closing when you ask it to and is unobstructed?

pen
 
biggest thing to remember , stoves dont draw, chimneys do, stoves inhibit draw to make wood last longer though so the chimney MUST be able to overcome this resistance. if you are not getting any draft, unless its a plugged up area of the stove or a closed bypass (this is a cat stove right?) there could be somthing going on with the flue.

is this a new install? is this a "new" stove to this flue? do we have the proper 10/3/2 rule in effect when flue was put in?

are all of your pipe joints sealed up tight?

lastly, how cold is it i see you are in SC one thing thats hard to do sometimes especially with a shorter chimney is generate draft on a "no so cold" day. the temperatures between the flue and outside arent that different when cold starting so geting a hot chimney is a must when trying to burn on a day like that.
 
Have you had a professional out to check it out? Do that before you quit trying and throw all that money away.
 
I bought the stove in 2009 used and have had problems every since then. It was on a 6" stove pipe to 6" brick chimney. Then I was told that it needs a 8" system even though the manual says either one is fine. There is no blockage in the system. The new 8" chimney system was finally installed in Feb. of this year. As far as I know it is the 10/3/2 rule. At the peak of my roof to the chimney is around 4' and the chimney is 3' above that and I have about 5' sticking out of my roof. As for the air flow the stove only has a sliding door to close off the air. The damper housing and cat box has no blockage. The rain cap has no blockage. The gaskets as far as I can tell are in right, except for below the door latch and the paper slides out with some tightness. The chimney system has about 75 hours of burn time so it is almost new. Yes I can order another 3' chimney pipe to get it higher. At this time that is one of two options and the other is to sale it and start over. If this stove does not work after another piece of 3' chimney pipe my options are very limited for another stove with an 8" flue.
 
Hardrockmaple said:
Have you had a professional out to check it out? Do that before you quit trying and throw all that money away.
Click to expand...
Yes it cost me $75.00 to have a professional come out to look at it and he said it was fine.That was before I put the gaskets in. That was a waste of $75.00.
 
Need to know what kind of stove this is for starters. If the new gaskets were put in wrong the stove would over heat beacuse too much air wood be getting into fire box. If this stove is a air tight down draft stove. check cat could be blocked up. this would cause your stove to choke. what is your temp outside when burning. I know allot of these new stoves dont like temps above 45 degrees. also check to see were your air control lever is.
 
you have a short chimney and live in a warm climate both of these things will work against you getting the stove hot
 
The after burner said:
Need to know what kind of stove this is for starters. If the new gaskets were put in wrong the stove would over heat beacuse too much air wood be getting into fire box. If this stove is a air tight down draft stove. check cat could be blocked up. this would cause your stove to choke. what is your temp outside when burning. I know allot of these new stoves dont like temps above 45 degrees. also check to see were your air control lever is.
Click to expand...

This stove is an Appalachian 52 date tested 1985. Last night temp was around 40* todays temp at 11:46 am around 50* No one knows anything about this stove except for a sales man that sells them. He said that this a good stove and has a long burn time. The gaskets are in right as far as I can tell. I have no cats in the stove. How can I over heat the stove when it is not getting enough air? Before I replaced the gaskets it was getting more then than now. I have several threads on here.

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/82676/
 

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It seems like every one wants me to spend more money on this stove but I keep spending money and just do not get anywhere with it.
 
Have you tried to warm up the chimney to get it to draw better?
 
Is it made by Appalachian Stoves? They are about 5 miles from me and I have been to the store/factory. It does not seem to be a very high quality operation. One of the reasons I now have a wood stove is because I have Appalachian gas logs. I had them 9THE GAS LOGS) rebuilt in there "lab" and they still don't work good. I would personally bail but maybe they can be of help to you?

http://www.appalachianstove.com/index.php

I noted there is no phone number on the web page hmmm 828-253-0564

Sorry about your troubles.
 
MarkinNC said:
Is it made by Appalachian Stoves? They are about 5 miles from me and I have been to the store/factory. It does not seem to be a very high quality operation. One of the reasons I now have a wood stove is because I have Appalachian gas logs. I had them 9THE GAS LOGS) rebuilt in there "lab" and they still don't work good. I would personally bail but maybe they can be of help to you?

http://www.appalachianstove.com/index.php

I noted there is no phone number on the web page hmmm 828-253-0564

Sorry about your troubles.
Click to expand...


Yes that is them. You can find their phone number on a manual 828-253-0364. I hear that they have a skeleton crew. I have called them but they are not much help. If Appalachian keeps this up they will go out of business. central_scrutinizer is the only guy that knows anything about Appalachian stove. Here are two quote from this thread.
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/84551/

central_scrutinizer said:
I've been selling their stoves for years and years, and I sometimes can't get a response from them. They have downsized a lot and are spread pretty thin these days. Sucks for the customer. We are as knowledgeable on Appalachian stoves as anyone. I am sure we can get you what you need. I sent you a PM with our website. I am a little leery about getting too commercialized on here. I don't want folks to think I'm trying to use the site as a market.
Click to expand...

central_scrutinizer said:
While I admit that Appalachian has had some problems, especially recently, the 52 bay has been a great stove for many years.
Click to expand...
 
m thinking.... do you know if there is anywhere to download their manual online so i can maybe try to study this beast some?

im going on assumptions here , but the knob at the top above the door is the cat bypass right?

even though there is no cat in it do you open that when lighting? the bypass is meant to give an open easy path for exhaust to assist in getting the stove up to temp. if you have it closed even without the cat it may not want to fire up

whats in the "cat box" now , is it just eempty or is there a plate or somthing where the cat used to be?

lastly, you said your pipe was at least 3 ft over the nearest peak, does that mean there is a higher peak on the house further away?

can you post an outside shot of house showing the chimeny and the rest of the roof? to help i need to see the whole situation, the inside shot of the stove isnt necessary ive seen it. im looking to see what the outside looks like
 
AppalachianStan said:
The after burner said:
Need to know what kind of stove this is for starters. If the new gaskets were put in wrong the stove would over heat beacuse too much air wood be getting into fire box. If this stove is a air tight down draft stove. check cat could be blocked up. this would cause your stove to choke. what is your temp outside when burning. I know allot of these new stoves dont like temps above 45 degrees. also check to see were your air control lever is.
Click to expand...

This stove is an Appalachian 52 date tested 1985. Last night temp was around 40* todays temp at 11:46 am around 50* No one knows anything about this stove except for a sales man that sells them. He said that this a good stove and has a long burn time. The gaskets are in right as far as I can tell. I have no cats in the stove. How can I over heat the stove when it is not getting enough air? Before I replaced the gaskets it was getting more then than now. I have several threads on here.

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/82676/
Click to expand...


what the heck is that magnet for on the front by the drsft control? is the draft control covered when you arent adjusting it??????
 
ansehnlich1 said:
My gut instinct tells me there's not enough draft on this setup......the chimney may be too short. I searched the following for a recommended chimney height but found none....

http://www.fireplacesnow.com/pdf/appalachian_52-BAY_manual_08.pdf
Click to expand...
Thanks ansehnlich1. I have that manual.
I guess every one is right about the height of the chimney, its 33* outside I have some kindling and two pieces of smoldering ECO bricks from this morning it looks like it is going pretty good. never mind it has died down in 5 minutes. The first pic is with the door ajar. The Second pic is with the door latched. The last pic is after 5 minutes. It is doing better then today. how good do the ECO brick burn?
 

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ansehnlich1 said:
My gut instinct tells me there's not enough draft on this setup......the chimney may be too short. I searched the following for a recommended chimney height but found none....

http://www.fireplacesnow.com/pdf/appalachian_52-BAY_manual_08.pdf
Click to expand...


thanks for the PDF bro, though the manual wasnt all that informative (most arent) for what i was looking for.

as for the issue in general, yeah i think its flue related as well though the 14 ft stack i would think would pull the stove if he's got the bypass open. what im concerned with is that we may have a different part of the roof not necessarily next to the chimney which could be causing his issue. he had in a different thread talked about how the stove would burn one day not the next, and he had mentioned "the closest peak" in a post , im curious if there is another higher peak which even if several ft away can cause difficulty
 
The stove looks like an insert sitting on top of some rock or concrete block? Where are the legs? Could there be another air inlet underneath the stove that's blocked?
 
stoveguy2esw said:
ansehnlich1 said:
My gut instinct tells me there's not enough draft on this setup......the chimney may be too short. I searched the following for a recommended chimney height but found none....

http://www.fireplacesnow.com/pdf/appalachian_52-BAY_manual_08.pdf
Click to expand...


thanks for the PDF bro, though the manual wasnt all that informative (most arent) for what i was looking for.

as for the issue in general, yeah i think its flue related as well though the 14 ft stack i would think would pull the stove if he's got the bypass open. what im concerned with is that we may have a different part of the roof not necessarily next to the chimney which could be causing his issue. he had in a different thread talked about how the stove would burn one day not the next, and he had mentioned "the closest peak" in a post , im curious if there is another higher peak which even if several ft away can cause difficulty
Click to expand...

Maybe just not sure on the roof thing the other roof peak is 20' away and only a feet teller then the peak beside the chimney. That would be 2' teller then that roof peak that is 20' away. Should ECO brick take off like a rocket? Thanks you all for you help.
 
Todd said:
The stove looks like an insert sitting on top of some rock or concrete block? Where are the legs? Could there be another air inlet underneath the stove that's blocked?
Click to expand...
the legs are $200 And yes it is on stone cover blocked. There are no other air intakes on the stove. I have looked all over the stove. just a simple stove with a cat.
 
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