Laminate floor problem

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kattpound

Member
May 17, 2011
48
N.W. OHIO
my neighbor just moved in and the laminate flooring in the kitchen is loose. just wondering if the best fix would be some glue on the joints or a nail in the end under the trim. thanks in advance.
 
NATE379 said:
No, it's supposed to float aka be loose.

i realize that it should float but a few planks will separate in the middle of the floor leaving a gap but will slide together when walked on, making for a painful walk if barefoot. Only about 3 pieces move so am not sure why they are doing it.
 
"Retap" them from the sides. They'll fit again.
 
You can also put a little glue in the joints before you tap them back in place. Just make sure to wipe any excess or ooze off the surface before it dries.
 
Might have to pull some of the floor apart to lock them in. Not sure why it would come apart if it was installed right though.

kattpound said:
NATE379 said:
No, it's supposed to float aka be loose.

i realize that it should float but a few planks will separate in the middle of the floor leaving a gap but will slide together when walked on, making for a painful walk if barefoot. Only about 3 pieces move so am not sure why they are doing it.
 
Some of the older laminate floors didnt have a good tongue and groove on the ends. I would start with tapping it back together, if it comes apart again, it is worn and your options are glue or tearing it up for a new one. Don't put a nail in the ends. That will cause buckling in the middle of the floor when it expands.
 
Hogwildz said:
You can also put a little glue in the joints before you tap them back in place. Just make sure to wipe any excess or ooze off the surface before it dries.

I'd try this first but you may have to work some less viscous glue down into the side joints to stop the movement. You might be able to thin wood glue with some water.
 
If there's heavy stuff on it, it can open up with changes to the moisture in the building, especially if the edges aren't allowed to move.

It's supposed to be put down with the edges loose, so that any expansion/contraction happens around the edges and not in the middle.

There is a special tool for the tapping -- it's a kind of Z shape -- you hook the short leg onto the flooring and hit the big end with a hammer. In a pinch you could try a pry bar or something similar.
 
pyper said:
If there's heavy stuff on it, it can open up with changes to the moisture in the building, especially if the edges aren't allowed to move.

It's supposed to be put down with the edges loose, so that any expansion/contraction happens around the edges and not in the middle.

There is a special tool for the tapping -- it's a kind of Z shape -- you hook the short leg onto the flooring and hit the big end with a hammer. In a pinch you could try a pry bar or something similar.

A 2x4 works too.

We had the same problem with a DIY install with older flooring before they got the machining down rright on the tongue-in-groove thing. Got a schmootz in the groove and it kept the tongue from locking.
 
thanks for the replies. I was thinking of going the glue route but thought i would get some knowledge here first.
 
bluedogz said:
A 2x4 works too.

I see how it would work great for the long runs in the middle of the floor (I used a block of wood for those, too), but I don't see how you can fit a 2x4 into the space at the end of the run that you're going to cover with the shoe mold.
 
You need a pull bar for the ends (and the last row sometimes). It has a short L on one end and a longer L on the other. Short L goes in the gap between wall and plank and you tap on the longer L with hammer to pull the pieces together.
 
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