Hamon Accentra Free Standing Ignitor Issue Maybe

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millhouselives

New Member
Oct 20, 2008
71
Southern Vermont
Hi All,

So here is my tale of woe. At the end of last season, I received the 5 blink error light. So at the time I purchased some gel and finish up season on manual rather then auto. I called dealer and they said that most likely the ignitor went bad. So being I purchase the stove in 6/08 I waited until June just before expiration of my warranty and called them up for service call. I paid 120.00 for them to make the trip. Labor and parts would be included in the repair.

The tech pulled the stove apart and did a major cleaning, he also told me he had the same stove and he had made some mods on his and others to make the stove burn cleaner and better. This consisted of filling in top two layers of holes in the burn pot with furnace cement.

So in the end he said the ignitor tested fine and by the time he left the stove was working as it should.

So now I fired up the stove for the first time in Nov and I notice that within 36 hours the glass is almost completly smoked, where last year it would take about a week to smoke up. Pellets this year are even a better quality then last years, don't have name on tip of my tongue right now but will chk when I get home. That is not end of the world but is curious to note.

Stove has only been running for couple of weeks and then 2 weekends ago stove went out and light was blinking 5 times. So did a very good cleaning and that did not fix issue. Some went and purchased more gel in the meantime.

So before I end up calling dealer and spending another 120.00 plus I now I will have to pay for labor and parts I am sure since my three years are up I have couple of questions.

Can I purchase ignitor and replace myself?
Is it very hard to replace ignitor?

Or is there something else I can check myself to troubleshoot?

thank you all,
 
Harman.


Not so sure about the combustion hole issue. I would not do that.

Yes you can buy an ignitor and put it in.

Eric
 
millhouselives said:
Can I purchase ignitor and replace myself?
Is it very hard to replace ignitor?

Contact Eric at Kinsman Stoves (see post above)....he is a certified Harman tech, and sells Harman stoves. He also gives discounts to hearth.com members, and is also a great guy to know, and to do business with.....give him a call....he might be able to help you with the stove over the phone:

330-448-0300
 
imacman said:
millhouselives said:
Can I purchase ignitor and replace myself?
Is it very hard to replace ignitor?

Contact Eric at Kinsman Stoves (see post above)....he is a certified Harman tech, and sells Harman stoves. He also gives discounts to hearth.com members, and is also a great guy to know, and to do business with.....give him a call....he might be able to help you with the stove over the phone:

330-448-0300

You better get your beer out of the fridge. I might not be able to hold back the installers much longer.

Thanks Pete

Eric
 
I don't like the idea of a tech doing field "mods" like that. Just doesn't sound right to me. Ignitors are easily found online.
 
kinsman stoves said:
You better get your beer out of the fridge. I might not be able to hold back the installers much longer.

Thanks Pete

Eric

No prob, bro.
 
X2 on what imacman said. Call Eric. Have not found anyone that beat his price.. Awesome guy.

As for replacement. Most stoves are not that hard to replace the ignitors, augers, and motors/blowers. Some simple tools and common sense.

When I rebuild anything that seems complicated (motors) I take lots of pics and label. Just a hint, if your scared to dive in head first. And you know if you hit a snag, that your help is right here on this Forum.
 
wow, thank you all for replying. So for sure I guess Eric is the man should I need parts. I guess this weekend I will start some more troubleshooting. What bugs me is I am not sure what the tech did to fix my problem, other then a very good cleaning. And I would think that since the stove has only been used at most maybe two weeks in total.....that this time the problem is not related to the stove not being clean. As a matter of fact, I did do a real good cleaning last week in attempt to fix problem. I removed baffle plated, plates off the back vacuum all, etc.

I note on the bill from the tech..he wrote that he tested ignitor "good at 49.7 ohms. I have a multimeter and would like to learn how to test the ignitor. Is it possible to test ignitor with it in the stove or do I have to remove.

thanks,
Steve
 
millhouselives said:
wow, thank you all for replying. So for sure I guess Eric is the man should I need parts. I guess this weekend I will start some more troubleshooting. What bugs me is I am not sure what the tech did to fix my problem, other then a very good cleaning. And I would think that since the stove has only been used at most maybe two weeks in total.....that this time the problem is not related to the stove not being clean. As a matter of fact, I did do a real good cleaning last week in attempt to fix problem. I removed baffle plated, plates off the back vacuum all, etc.

I note on the bill from the tech..he wrote that he tested ignitor "good at 49.7 ohms. I have a multimeter and would like to learn how to test the ignitor. Is it possible to test ignitor with it in the stove or do I have to remove.

thanks,
Steve

Yes, Eric is a great place to get parts, and he can also help you with the stove problem too.....give him a call.

As for testing the ignitor, yes you can test it in the stove....just disconnect BOTH ignitor leads and then run the ohm's test. 49-50 ohm's is in the ballpark for a good ignitor.
 
Hi All,

Finally had time to work with my stove an do some more testing regarding the ignitor. Instead of pulling the ignitor before I had one in hand I just did a good cleaning of stove and then started it in auto mode..I let it run for 10-15 minutes and then just reached in to feel burn pot. It was ice cold, so I am sure ignitor is toast, well that would be cold toast.

I also think I figured out why as mentioned in my original post the viewing window was smoking up so much and so quickly vs. last year.

When harman tech was here this past summer he made some mod's he said would make the stove run better, etc. What he did was fill in the top three layers of holes in the burn pot with furnace cement.....(what do I know, I am not harman tech).

So, anyway when I was cleaning stove this past weekend, I unplugged all the holes. I also used canned air to blow out any dust of fines that may have been collected on ignitor fins. AND, even though I am still running in manual mode using pellet gel to get started I noticed a much better flame height and the glass is no where near getting sooted up.

I suspect maybe the lack of air may have also caused the ignitor to try to heat up but without air, maybe it overheated itself and cracked cermanic casing causing it to bend and ^^$%# the bed.

I called my dealer in N.H. and they have ignitor for 82.00 plus shipping. I think that is pretty good price compared to what I have seen for prices here on the forum.

Steve
 
millhouselives said:
Hi All,

Finally had time to work with my stove an do some more testing regarding the ignitor. Instead of pulling the ignitor before I had one in hand I just did a good cleaning of stove and then started it in auto mode..I let it run for 10-15 minutes and then just reached in to feel burn pot. It was ice cold, so I am sure ignitor is toast, well that would be cold toast.

I also think I figured out why as mentioned in my original post the viewing window was smoking up so much and so quickly vs. last year.

When harman tech was here this past summer he made some mod's he said would make the stove run better, etc. What he did was fill in the top three layers of holes in the burn pot with furnace cement.....(what do I know, I am not harman tech).

So, anyway when I was cleaning stove this past weekend, I unplugged all the holes. I also used canned air to blow out any dust of fines that may have been collected on ignitor fins. AND, even though I am still running in manual mode using pellet gel to get started I noticed a much better flame height and the glass is no where near getting sooted up.

I suspect maybe the lack of air may have also caused the ignitor to try to heat up but without air, maybe it overheated itself and cracked cermanic casing causing it to bend and ^^$%# the bed.

I called my dealer in N.H. and they have ignitor for 82.00 plus shipping. I think that is pretty good price compared to what I have seen for prices here on the forum.

Steve


That's a great price! I'm still irritated that the "tech"(and I use that word loosely) filled those holes in. HE should be buying you the new ignitor. Anyway, glad she's burning better and glad you found a less expensive ignitor.
 
CelciusMaximus said:
Yuupp! time for a new one. $82 and change is reasonable.you could also use a thunderbolt cartridge heater form grainger
might cost half that.

Just curious, does Grainger sell to individuals now or would I have to say I own a business? I've had problems with Grainger in the past because I do not own a business. Thanks!
 
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