Reducing draft for my Quadra fire Isle Royale

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"500 stove top during the outgas phase of the wood is a bit low (in my experience) to maintain proper reburn tube temps. You are in “cat†territory"
Differant brand of stove but my Summit will maintain secondaries at 500 stove top.
 
oldspark said:
"500 stove top during the outgas phase of the wood is a bit low (in my experience) to maintain proper reburn tube temps. You are in “cat†territory"
Differant brand of stove but my Summit will maintain secondaries at 500 stove top.

The IR will to an extent as well, but I think it is on the brink of internal temps to be as effective as possible.
 
Hey all just wanted to let everyone in on my call to quadra fire. The quad tech told me that the I R should never be fired over 600 deg he said that he suspects there's a leak somewhere. He said to keep working with my dealer so they can log all info. I tried to call my dealer but they won't return my calls. I feel I know more about my stove than my dealer does. Hopefully I can get this thing figured out before it gets really cold. I'll let all know how I make out.
 
Jags said:
oldspark said:
"500 stove top during the outgas phase of the wood is a bit low (in my experience) to maintain proper reburn tube temps. You are in “cat†territory"
Differant brand of stove but my Summit will maintain secondaries at 500 stove top.

The IR will to an extent as well, but I think it is on the brink of internal temps to be as effective as possible.
Well if 500 is on the low side of good secondaries and he's not to run it over 600 as in his new post that is a mighty narrow burn range is it not.
 
oldspark said:
Jags said:
oldspark said:
"500 stove top during the outgas phase of the wood is a bit low (in my experience) to maintain proper reburn tube temps. You are in “cat†territory"
Differant brand of stove but my Summit will maintain secondaries at 500 stove top.

The IR will to an extent as well, but I think it is on the brink of internal temps to be as effective as possible.
Well if 500 is on the low side of good secondaries and he's not to run it over 600 as in his new post that is a mighty narrow burn range is it not.

I agree with Jags that 500 is on the low side. At 500, the chimney still smokes.

This is the first I've heard of the 600. The manual advises against overfiring. "If heater or chimney connector glows, you are overfiring." (page 4 of the manual)

I'm usually between 550 and 700, and it's easy to level out there. No glowing at those temps.
 
I will have to look toninght but I am pretty sure I do not get smoke at even 400.
 
I need to reload now. I'll then go outside and do some chimney staring. :)
 
Just went out and looked and some where around 400 to 450 stove top the chimney quit smoking and just had heat waves, I know these stoves are different in construction but I think 400 would be on the low side of good secondaries unless your stove a lot different than mine. This was with some silver maple and elm, I was surprised at the low amount of somoke at 300 stove top, the secondaries were firing good with the primary air wide open but wont do that as much with oak and white ash. Its amazing the different observations we have with all the variances of these stoves and chimneys. I still can not get the top end that most do.
 
I reloaded with a mix of oak, elm, and hickory. At 525, smoke was greatly diminished, but I could still see a bit of gray smoke
against the gray sky. At 550, I shut the air to half-closed, and no smoke whatsoever. At 625, I went to almost closed and it
just leveled off at 650--heat waves.

I agree about variation in stoves and chimneys and wood. There are general similarities, but everybody has to find their own
sweet spot.

If my memory is correct, the OP in this thread was experiencing the high temps even after putting on a pipe damper and with the
primary air totally closed. If it's not draft, it has to be a leak somewhere.

It's a good night for wood heat. Heading down to 17 degrees tonight.
 
I'm curious to know what every ones temps are on your stove pipe compared to top of the stove temp. I measure pipe temp 18" above my stove and my pipe temp never goes over 375 deg. It usually hangs at 325-350 deg when the top of the stove is at 700-750. Has anyone ever overheated a Isle Royale or had the secondary tubes glowing? My stove constantly goes to 750 pushing to 800 when I pack my stove. I start the fire and let it climb to 350 then shut it down completely and the climbs to 750 800 after an hour or so. My fire box is filled with dancing flames and the wood is consumed quickly. I have tested both my thermometers against a Infrared gun and found that both pipe and stove top thermometers are within +/- 25 deg. I hear a quiet whistle when I close the air control. Is this normal
 
I have a probe thermometer for the stovepipe, and temps rise to 800-900 when the stovetop is rising to 550-600.
After the air is shut down, the pipe temp drops below the stovetop temp.

I don't get a whistling sound when shutting the air down.
 
Hi all, still haven't gotten a call from the dealer yet. I'm getting a little upset now and have made up my mind that I don't want this IR anymore. I don't want a stove that has to be torn down and resealed. I'm not sure if the dealer will want to take it back but I will sit it in front of there door burning and glowing. I really heard good things about quad stoves and am not sure I want another Isle Royale. Cast iron stoves always scared me. There's to many joints sealed up with cement and to much hardware holding it together. I think I might just go with a steel stove. I'm thinking of the quad 5700. I need a large stove to heat 3000 sq/ft. Does anybody have any input on the 5700? I'm wandering about there burn times and how controllable they are.
 
When I test draft, I have a 1/4" copper tube that I insert an inch or two into a 1/4" hole. The copper tube is connected to the manometer tube. .08-.11" is a high draft. Other manufacturers I have seen recommend between .04-.06". I know the key dampers allow some bypassing, but to only slow the draft .03" doesn't sound right. We have a key above our baro for security and it will take draft from .1" to .02" from open to closed. Is the key damper set correctly where it will turn? The draft to me sounds like it could be a problem, you need a way to lower it a little more and see if things improve.
 
My draft is usually low like .02-.04 with a small fire and warmer outside temps 50 deg or so. I get the highest draft of about .11 to .14 when a hot fire is burning and its cold outside. My draft always drops below .09 when I close my pipe damper. The damper lowers the draft but does not change the fire much if any. My manual states that the chimney draft should be approximately -.04 inch water column during a low burn and -.10 inch w.c. during a high burn, measured 6 inches above the top of the appliance after one hour of operation at each burn setting. I'm not sure about the low burn and high burn but I think my stove burns at high burn all the time. So if I close the damper I'm always below quads recommended max draft of .10. My damper is for a six inch pipe but I would say that the damper is five inches and leaves a half inch gap all the way around it inside my pipe plus there are holes at the center of the damper were the rod goes through. Is this normal for dampers or should it close tighter? Is it a bad idea to use an automatic damper like the type used on oil furnaces? I think they use an adjustable weight to control a door that lets air into your pipe to lower the draft. I'm afraid that style damper will cause more creosote due to the cold air entering the pipe.
 
sounds like a real pita either way. It will be interesting to see where you end up on this one. One one hand I'm hopeful you got a defective stove becasue if you put in stove #2 and if it behaves the same way, you have to deal with the draft issue. Good luck and please keep us posted.

If you really want long burn times do some searching here on the blaze king stoves - the folks that have the bk post some very impressive results.
 
Our key damper has very little room around it, it's an older one. For us if I run .08" it will burn quickly. Im running a baro which is required by the manual, we see little creosote. I would look for a different key damper, if not try a baro. I've been back and forth over a baro, but find the fire burns much hotter and longer when the draft is tamed. I've used a key damper, reduced intake and a baro. It chose the baro, but our damper which controls the fire is automatic via thermostat.
 
I think a baro for standard stove would allow too much room air up the chimney, resulting in a colder house. They make sense in wood furnace applications.
 
My experience mirrors that of Northwinds. And as far as keeping the IR below 600F at all times - I dare ya. That is just not the way mine runs.

As far as being afraid of cast iron - that is kinda silly. Cast iron has been used in the making of wood stoves for centuries before plate steel was.
 
Hi everyone, I finally got in contact with my dealer. The owner told me that I was doing everything right and he had no other fixes. He told me that he was going to request a quad rep. come and look at my stove. I figured I better get all of facts straight before a rep looks at my stove. I grabbed a notebook and my IR temp gun and started recording notes on my stages of burn. I loaded the stove with nice select four inch splits of oak, hickory and maple on top of a few coals. I didn't have the stove jammed full but had a good amount of tightly stacked wood in the stove. I shut the start up control after I seen a flame and then closed the main air control and the pipe damper when the stove was 200 deg. the draft was .04 After one hour the stove top was 729 deg. and the draft was .08. After ten mins. past the stove was 773 deg with the draft at .09. After another ten mins. the stove was 803 deg and the draft was .1. I then was getting concerned with the creaking stove and I turned the fan on high after reaching 806 deg. The stove cooled off 200 deg in the next hour. My house is roasting hot now and the fire is down to 350 deg after loading it 3 hours and ten mins earlier. No flames anymore just a pile of hot coals that I doubt will last another 2 hours. Now do I have fight with quadra fire or not? My dealer told me earlier today that I will shorten the life of the stove if its burnt at 700 deg. Well I reached 806 deg before I got nervous and turned the fan on high to cool it down. Quad says not to burn over 600 deg. and boast a burn time of 20 hrs. Ha Ha Ha not funny! I can't wait untill the rep shows up.
 
chadihman, have you ever tried to run the stove with less wood? what results do you get?

once I have coals, my typical reload is 3-4 splits, together they can all easily fit into a 5 gallon bucket. Again with the unusual weather I'm not going for burn time just secondaries. She probably needs a re-charge every 4 hours and I could probably get away with 8hrs.

I would think your qf rep should be able to get things straightened out for you.
 
Please let us know how things turn out. I'm really curious to see what the explanation is. Your stove performs
very differently than mine. I can't imagine shutting the air down at 200 and having the temps go up to 800.
I don't think about "starting" to close the air until 550.

I'm glad you're getting it checked out by Quadrafire.
 
I have a Quadra Fire Isle Royale and I pack it full as possible with dry hard woods and start it with a top down/side corner fire. Let the fire get fairly engulfed then cut back the air control to 1/2 " to 1" open, then walk away. I try not to let the temperature spike too high in the beginning because this burns wood too fast and over heats the house. Goal is to evenly heat the house.
 
chadihman, just wonderin whats up with your stove. things get straight, qf come thru or you go to plan c?
 
Just a thought; does it run hotter with the pipe damper closed or open? If you have a leak somewhere feeding the fire maybe the damper is holding excess heat in the stove. I ask because my smoke pipe is 4" going into 6" chimney so effectively running half choke and my stove loves to cruise at 750*.

Ehouse
 
Hi everyone, I have been working with my dealer and talking on the phone with quad a lot lately. The quad rep looked at my stove and said he found nothing. I think he was in a hurry to start his two week Christmas break. He told me that it would be after the new year before I would hear from anyone. Last week I got a call from a very knowledgeable quad tech from WA. He questioned everything and I had answers. He thought that my house might have strong positive pressure and this would make the stove burn hot. I measured my house pressure and found that I actually have negative pressure in my house so that would blow that theory out of the water. He asked me to do the flame pull test even though the rep already did it and said he found nothing. I lit the stove and held a lighter up and down and side to side over the joints. I was shocked when the flame sucked into the joint crack at the bottom front left side. He asked me to send pics of the flame pulling in. Finally I feel relief. I was told that they are replacing my stove. I told them I don't want another IR and would rather have the 5700. I don't want to scare anyone that has a cast stove but I'll be happy to switch to a fully welded stove. I'm gonna miss the beautiful cast iron but not worry anymore about leaking joints. My dealer told me that the replacement 5700 stove should be in today 1/13/12 and installed on the 14th. Thanks everyone for taking your time to help me. I'll let you all know how the 5700 performs.
 
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