pacific energy summit draft question

i would leave the air control alone the stove does not take a large amount of air in and closing it all the way off may cause problems also may want to be careful storing wood directly under the stove

I would leave it for now and remove it later if you think you need to, just a little tab that comes off easily.

Congrats on the purchase of the Summit! I am really liking my T6 and hopefully you have as good of an experience with yours as I have had with mine.
I would definitely leave the stop on for right now. I think you will find that you probably don't want to shut it down much more than that.
Is this the first secondary combustion stove you have had? How dry is your wood supply as these things really, really, really like dry wood. Oh, did I mention these stove like dry wood

tim1 said:

I just got a used summit stove and am tuning it up with some new gaskets and bricks. Also gonna insulate the top of the baffle. My question is,,The draft has a stop welded there under it so as not to be able to completely close, would it be better to allow it to completely close? There is always gonna be air for the extended burn baffle so as not to be able to starve for air. I am gonna remove the pedestal and raise it up 25" with a wood box under. Thanks Tim

Click to expand...

Can you clarify what you are attempting to do as I'm not sure I completely understand.
Hopefully Begreen or someone else can chime in here but I'm not sure that the baffles have insulation on top of them.

tim1 said:

You are right! t is a small tab and could easily be removed if needed. You are also right, it only has a small opening when fully closed. Never had any new stoves, just Earth,shradder and my pappa fisher. My wood is really dry, least 2 years sesioned, but not really small pieces. The insulation that I refer to was not on the 2001 stove, but added in 2002, so I will retro fit mine. It is the same material that is on top of the rails with a pieces of 3/16 stainless to hold it in place on top of the baffle and to keep pipe eibri off the insulation. Getting parts this week. Tim

Click to expand...

If 2 years seasoned is cut split and stacked you should be good to go on your wood supply. Still not following what you are going to do after you remove the pedestal? Are you saying you are going to build a custom stand for the stove sort of like the fusion's and then store your wood underneath? What are you using to build the custom stand. make sure if you are building custom stand that you are still within the manufacturers stated clearances to combustibles and you should be good to go. Definitely take some photo's as I'm interested to see how this works out. Good Luck, keep us posted.

tim1 said:

Those are good videos, learned some things. Guess I have to split almost all my wood as it is rather big pieces. Top down fires is new to me as is the epa stove. Will go thru a learning curve. The insulation that I talk about was put in the 02 stoves at factory and mine is a 01. Helps keep the baffle hot. Kathy in technical support at Pacific Energy has been wonderful!! Still wonder how to do my signature and post pictures. Tim

Click to expand...

To do a signature go to the top of the page and click on my control panel, you will then see a hyperlink on the left hand side of the page that says my signature click on it and type up what you want your sig to be and accept it.

Pictures are another thing......I use Picasa which is a free download, open picasa, select the pictures you want to use, click on the file tab, then click on the export pictures to folder wording, a screen will pop up and you can select the size and compression you want and select ok and the pictures will be saved into the export folder. Now to attach the pictures in your post, when your post a new reply screen is up you will see a blank space at the bottom of the screen that says attachments, click on the browse button and go to the Picasa export folder and select the picture you want to show up in your post. You can add multiple by hitting the preview post button and then using the browse feature to attach another picture. There is probably another way to do this however this is how I add my photos and once you get the hang of it it takes no time at all to add pics.

BeGreen said:

certified106 said:

tim1 said:

I just got a used summit stove and am tuning it up with some new gaskets and bricks. Also gonna insulate the top of the baffle. My question is,,The draft has a stop welded there under it so as not to be able to completely close, would it be better to allow it to completely close? There is always gonna be air for the extended burn baffle so as not to be able to starve for air. I am gonna remove the pedestal and raise it up 25" with a wood box under. Thanks Tim

Click to expand...

Can you clarify what you are attempting to do as I'm not sure I completely understand.
Hopefully Begreen or someone else can chime in here but I'm not sure that the baffles have insulation on top of them.

Click to expand...

The Summit baffle box already has the insulation inside of it. I wouldn't add any on top. It is unnecessary and might impede draft a bit. Definitely do not totally remove the tab stop for the air control. This would both void the warranty and it would essentially turn the stove into a smoke dragon.

This stove is going to burn very differently than your old stove. Give yourself time to try the stove out for a season and get used to it. You will make mistakes just like the rest of us have as you learn the new stove. One very common mistake is putting a large load of wood on a large hot bed of coals. That will take off with a mighty fire and will result in a very hot stove. With modern stoves it's better to rake that hot coal bed to the front center of the stove, then open up the air control maybe half or all the way open, and burn it down until it is more moderate in size. Then reload.

Catch the last video on this website for some tips on burning in your Summit.
http://www.woodheat.org/wood-heat-videos.html

Click to expand...

We already had this discussion.
The Summit and other PE baffles DO NOT, have insulation inside. The insulation is on top of the baffle box! I repeat ON TOP!
The inside of the baffle box is hollow no insulation inside!
Sorry BG, just had to clear this up once and for all.
There is a heat shield that covers the insulation top and sides. The back is left open to seal against the rear of the firebox. There are two tabs on the baffle top that slide through the shield and merely bend over in each direction.

Hogwildz said:

BeGreen said:

certified106 said:

tim1 said:

I just got a used summit stove and am tuning it up with some new gaskets and bricks. Also gonna insulate the top of the baffle. My question is,,The draft has a stop welded there under it so as not to be able to completely close, would it be better to allow it to completely close? There is always gonna be air for the extended burn baffle so as not to be able to starve for air. I am gonna remove the pedestal and raise it up 25" with a wood box under. Thanks Tim

Click to expand...

Can you clarify what you are attempting to do as I'm not sure I completely understand.
Hopefully Begreen or someone else can chime in here but I'm not sure that the baffles have insulation on top of them.

Click to expand...

The Summit baffle box already has the insulation inside of it. I wouldn't add any on top. It is unnecessary and might impede draft a bit. Definitely do not totally remove the tab stop for the air control. This would both void the warranty and it would essentially turn the stove into a smoke dragon.

This stove is going to burn very differently than your old stove. Give yourself time to try the stove out for a season and get used to it. You will make mistakes just like the rest of us have as you learn the new stove. One very common mistake is putting a large load of wood on a large hot bed of coals. That will take off with a mighty fire and will result in a very hot stove. With modern stoves it's better to rake that hot coal bed to the front center of the stove, then open up the air control maybe half or all the way open, and burn it down until it is more moderate in size. Then reload.

Catch the last video on this website for some tips on burning in your Summit.
http://www.woodheat.org/wood-heat-videos.html

Click to expand...

We already had this discussion.
The Summit and other PE baffles DO NOT, have insulation inside. The insulation is on top of the baffle box! I repeat ON TOP!
The inside of the baffle box is hollow no insulation inside!
Sorry BG, just had to clear this up once and for all.
There is a heat shield that covers the insulation top and sides. The back is left open to seal against the rear of the firebox. There are two tabs on the baffle top that slide through the shield and merely bend over in each direction.

Click to expand...

Hog, not to argue, but my circa 2007 PE t6 does have what appears to be insulation sandwiched between the top and bottom plates of the baffle. When I did the spring cleaning and had the baffle on the workbench, I was tempted to bend the tabs to take it apart to shake out the ash dust but instead shop vac'ed the holes on the front and rear opening of the baffle...

madison said:

Hogwildz said:

BeGreen said:

certified106 said:

tim1 said:

I just got a used summit stove and am tuning it up with some new gaskets and bricks. Also gonna insulate the top of the baffle. My question is,,The draft has a stop welded there under it so as not to be able to completely close, would it be better to allow it to completely close? There is always gonna be air for the extended burn baffle so as not to be able to starve for air. I am gonna remove the pedestal and raise it up 25" with a wood box under. Thanks Tim

Click to expand...

Can you clarify what you are attempting to do as I'm not sure I completely understand.
Hopefully Begreen or someone else can chime in here but I'm not sure that the baffles have insulation on top of them.

Click to expand...

The Summit baffle box already has the insulation inside of it. I wouldn't add any on top. It is unnecessary and might impede draft a bit. Definitely do not totally remove the tab stop for the air control. This would both void the warranty and it would essentially turn the stove into a smoke dragon.

This stove is going to burn very differently than your old stove. Give yourself time to try the stove out for a season and get used to it. You will make mistakes just like the rest of us have as you learn the new stove. One very common mistake is putting a large load of wood on a large hot bed of coals. That will take off with a mighty fire and will result in a very hot stove. With modern stoves it's better to rake that hot coal bed to the front center of the stove, then open up the air control maybe half or all the way open, and burn it down until it is more moderate in size. Then reload.

Catch the last video on this website for some tips on burning in your Summit.
http://www.woodheat.org/wood-heat-videos.html

Click to expand...

We already had this discussion.
The Summit and other PE baffles DO NOT, have insulation inside. The insulation is on top of the baffle box! I repeat ON TOP!
The inside of the baffle box is hollow no insulation inside!
Sorry BG, just had to clear this up once and for all.
There is a heat shield that covers the insulation top and sides. The back is left open to seal against the rear of the firebox. There are two tabs on the baffle top that slide through the shield and merely bend over in each direction.

Click to expand...

Hog, not to argue, but my circa 2007 PE t6 does have what appears to be insulation sandwiched between the top and bottom plates of the baffle. When I did the spring cleaning and had the baffle on the workbench, I was tempted to bend the tabs to take it apart to shake out the ash dust but instead shop vac'ed the holes on the front and rear opening of the baffle...

Click to expand...

Hmmm, well they must have either changed the design all together, or just for the T-series?

Ok photos in order:
1. Baffle front with insulation on top and shield over the insulation.
2. Baffle rear view, w/ insulation shield off and showing insulation on top of baffle.
3. Baffle with insulation and shield removed off the top.
4. Baffle with insulation on top, and the shield that sits over the insulation removed and sitting next to top insulated baffle.
This is how my 2006 Summit insert is set up.
Not sure how the new ones, or T series are set up, just figured they would be the same.

Hog, that is exactly the same, I must of misunderstood. There is a layer of insulation between the top and bottom pieces of the baffle assembly

madison said:

Hog, that is exactly the same, I must of misunderstood. There is a layer of insulation between the top and bottom pieces of the baffle assembly

Click to expand...

Ok sounds like terminology conflict.

The baffle, is a closed hollow box with the holes in front & bottom, and the rectangular opening in the back that rests over the air vertical channel at the back of the stove.
The insulation lays on top outer surface of the baffle. Then a heat shield which is basically a flat pc of s.s. with the sides bent down. The shield just lays on top of the insulation and the two tabs are bent over to hold the shield and insulation on top of the baffle. I maybe misunderstood BG, and thought he was thinking the insulation was inside thew baffle itself, which is just a hollow box basically.

I have had the baffle out, (well gets done every year for sweeping), took the top shield off, the insulation off, the side rails & insulation out, the stove top inner heat shield off. Even took the EBT off, thats when I found the shutter inside out of place and inoperable letting air flow constantly. Gotten real familiar with the stove.

I wouldn't mess with the Summit. I like my Summit insert. It's not your Papa Fisher, but it will throw out a lot of heat on way less wood. Also, it will give you better burn times than you think.

Hogwildz said:

madison said:

Hog, that is exactly the same, I must of misunderstood. There is a layer of insulation between the top and bottom pieces of the baffle assembly

Click to expand...

Ok sounds like terminology conflict.

The baffle, is a closed hollow box with the holes in front & bottom, and the rectangular opening in the back that rests over the air vertical channel at the back of the stove.
The insulation lays on top outer surface of the baffle. Then a heat shield which is basically a flat pc of s.s. with the sides bent down. The shield just lays on top of the insulation and the two tabs are bent over to hold the shield and insulation on top of the baffle. I maybe misunderstood BG, and thought he was thinking the insulation was inside thew baffle itself, which is just a hollow box basically.

I have had the baffle out, (well gets done every year for sweeping), took the top shield off, the insulation off, the side rails & insulation out, the stove top inner heat shield off. Even took the EBT off, thats when I found the shutter inside out of place and inoperable letting air flow constantly. Gotten real familiar with the stove.

Click to expand...

So the fapper was open all the time, I have thought about closing that off for good as there is a small hole in the disc.