Lopi Leyden to replace old VC Resolute

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Dougiefreshhh

New Member
Dec 12, 2011
56
North Central CT
Hi All:

First off, I'm new to the site...so "howdy!".

I've been a casual reader over the years, and am now in need of some advice.

I currently run a VC Resolute Acclaim from the early 80's. Been a great stove for the 8 years I have owned it...but it is now going to require some serious work, and I'm thinking about upgrading.

I burn about 1-2cords per season (weekend burner, and when I'm working from home)....to help supplement our hot forced air propane furnace. Our home is an 8yr old colonial with a center chimney. See pic.

The Stove is in the fireplace facing the gathering room.

GRANBYFLR100.jpg


The VC is connected to 35' of one piece metal liner...and I've never had a problem with backpuffing on my VC. If I pack the box at midnight, and turn it way down, i will have some coals at 6am...but not many. Id really like to a good 8 hrs. I use one of those thermoelectic fans to help circulate the air.

I've thinking of the following stoves (1.7-2.0 cu ft box) as possible candidates.

-VC Encore 2 in 1
-Hearthstone Shelburne
-Jotul F500
-Lopi Leyden
-Harman Oakwood (a bit big...and "fragile" fire dome?)

I really, really like the top load feature of my VC, and if it weren't for all the bad reports about VC quality, etc....I'd probably get another.

The Mrs. does not want a steel plate stove...so either Cast, or cast sleve over steel box are the only options.

So now I'm thinking the Lopi. I like its 2.0ft box, and long burn times. I've read about how the Lopi can be difficult to run because of its different secondary burn technology...but my VC sounds very similar..
i.e Main bypass lever + 1 lever for the amount for air control.

Thus, given my experience with these kind of stoves, and my like for top loaders, is there any reason I SHOULD NOT get the Lopi?

Many thanks in advance!

Doug
 
I think the Leyden is a good stove - though I belive it is a down draft stove. Some folks have great success with them, others don't.

I wouldn't be afraid of a side loading door stove either. I like the VC 2in1 stoves on paper and we are hearing they are better stoves than those in the past, but are still new.

Another stove to consider is the Jotul Rangeley. It is top loading and can be had with a cast iron jacket. I believe it is the same size firebox as the F500 Oslo.

FWIW, I especially like cat stoves and their ability to turn down the burn for shoulder seasons and long clean overnight burns. That said, consider also the Woodstock soapstone stoves. Great looks, great reliability, great customer service (and 6 month money back guarantee) and a cat stove.

Good luck,
Bill
 
I can't speak for any other stove but the Leyden. The only flaw with the stove was the operator that first year or so. I've replaced the door and top load gaskets 1X.
Yes, this is a downdraft stove and mine likes to cruise at *600-*625. Overnight burns with dry, dense hardwoods are a cinch once you get a feel for it.
Unless temps are mid twenties or lower overnight, I don't bother loading it up full before bed. Usually 3 splits on a coal bed. Tonight, 43* low expected; I've got a warm house, a bed of big lumpy coals, and I aint throwing anything else in it till morning.
Get the blower option! If you can't move the heat, you're going to cook a room with this stove for sure (and probably could with most any EPA stove). Your floor plan looked reasonably open??
 
CT Burner said:
Thus, given my experience with these kind of stoves, and my like for top loaders, is there any reason I SHOULD NOT get the Lopi?

Wecome to the forums!

Leyden is not that different from the Oakwood: tendency to burn hot; fragile combustion chamber that may clog/degrade after several years; draft sensitive; needs dry wood to perform well. I wonder if 35' will give too much draft to get the longer burns - you may have the same burn times as you do now. Any other opinions on the potential for overdrafting these stoves with that much pipe?

I tend to think these downdraft stoves are better for 24/7 heating than for occasional use, as they are tempermental and time-consuming on startup, but run smoothly once a good coal bed is established. If you like to grill, I'd get the Oakwood over the Leyden.

I have not read all the threads on the new VC model, but it seems much improved, with a more durable refractory piece.
 
Thanks!
Yes, the floorplan is open. the heat makes it way to the center stair case, and up it goes into the bedrooms. I use the thermoelectric fan to push the heat down the hall towards the garage.

I'm seeing grey/whiteish patches around the door, and one on the side of the stove. I'm guessing I have a leaky front door...but on the side of the stove?

Other than gaskets, I have not done anything to my Resolute in 8 years. Are the newer stoves "not made like they used to make them", and will require more major service every 3 years or so?
 
CT Burner said:
Are the newer stoves "not made like they used to make them", and will require more major service every 3 years or so?

Only the downdrafts (Leyden/Oakwood), possibly a new combustion package at $200-300 after 4-6 years. (But cleaning every 1-2 years)

Just wondering, what is the serious work your stove needs? The whitish patches sound like overfiring, but curious to know what shape the guts are in.
 
Is that gray/whitish look on the side with the leaky gasket? Probably has been too hot on that side of the stove for awhile.

I figured one of the jotul or hearthstone guys would be chiming in by now.....
What is your biggest consideration with a new stove? Burn times? Ease of operation? Eye Appeal?

When it gets cold enough, I'll stuff the Leyden and throw up a UTube vid. showing the sequences of getting to that point. Like I said, for my house, it's gotta be low twenties or colder to do that.
 
Thanks for the input all.

Yes, I'm primarily looking for longer burn times.

I really use the stove when the temps drop into the single digits....to help keep the furnaces from running all night long. I'd like to be able to pack the stove at 10pm, and come down at 6am with enough coals so that I just need to throw on some splits, open her up for a 10-15 minutes, and then damper her back down again.

Here are some pics of my current set up. You can see the white/grey patches that I mentioned before.

Thanks for the input!

IMG-20111214-00465.jpg

IMG-20111214-00466.jpg

IMG-20111214-00467.jpg
 
Ya, I'm guessing that white glaze is from overfiring the stove. Looks like maybe the door gaskets were indeed leaking and things got real hot on the sides.
Just my hunch. So what's wrong with the stove?
 
Thanks Troutchaser.
I need to do a smoke or dollar bill test on the doors again.

The funny thing is for the side white glaze, its only on one side. I can't see any visible cracks in the guts, so I'm not sure why it is doing that.

I tend to run a magnet thermometer on the pipe 1/2 way between the back of the stove, and where the pipe turns 90deg upwards.....and always keep her in range.

When she is going "normally", I get no smoke out the chimney.

I'd really like for longer burn times.

maybe with 35' of pipe, I should put in a damper valve?
 
In that first pic I'm seeing a white film on both sides of the door, right??? And yes, that one side is definitely white.
Are you not running a stove top therm? With short burn times and a 35 foot pipe, you might be pushing it too hard.

When you say guts, do you mean firebrick?

Maybe an expert will chime in, or start another thread asking thoughts on the condition of this stove. Maybe a new door gasket and a stovetop therm.?

Or maybe you're just ready for a new stove!
 
Thanks Troutchaser.

This morning I took a closer look inside the stove, and behold, there is a 6" long crack in the back plate of the stove, on the right side. See pic.

IMG-20111216-00470.jpg


I'm guessing that during the last power outage (where we were without power for 8 days...and I was running the stove 24/7), it might have been too much for the stove.

30 years old, and as far as I can tell, its all original..except for gaskets.

Your thoughts...fix or replace?

Thanks,
Doug
 
I've got a hunch the stove can be fixed. The crack can be repaired. I think VC actually sold a repair kit for things just like that crack a long time ago.
To me, that was admitting a flaw in the stove. But 30 years is a long time to run a stove w/o stuff like that happening.

Probably just depends how much money you feel like spending and how much of a headache you wish to deal with. If I were you, I'd start a new post showing the crack, the white "overfired" spots, and ask advice. I just don't feel right directing you one way or another.
Title it something like: Should I replace this VC? w/Pics. You'll get some opinions then.

35' of pipe is a lot. You're probably looking at a damper with any stove.
Best.
 
Thanks Troutchaser. Yes, I think I've found some parts.

With my set up, how do I get a damper in there. before the 90deg bend upwards?
 
as long as that is "kosher" to do, I guess I should put one in. Maybe that explaines the 5hr burn times with the VC (before the cracked back!).
 
Like I said, I'm no authority.
Get more opinons from some of the experts on this site, please.
 
Being a Lopi owner I am familiar with the owners manuals and know they are available online, so I looked at the chimney requirements. If you look on page 12 of the Leydon Owners manual it says the maximum chimney system length is 33.' It is in the upper corner of the diagram box where they specify the minimum and maximum chimney lengths.

http://www.lopistoves.com/product_guide/detail.aspx?id=240#Documents

I would vote for a bigger firebox also if you want longer burn times, at least a little bigger than 2.0 CF FWIW.
 
I would opt for an increase in capacity to deliver the best satisfaction. The Resolute is a bit small for the size of the house. I suspect when temps are low it is being pushed hard with frequent refills. If this is the case, a larger firebox will make a nice difference. You will see longer burns and greater comfort when it's cold. During milder weather, run partial loads of fuel to reduce the heat output.

The Jotul Oslo would be a decent choice. But I would also consider the F600, Quadrafire Isle Royale, and Hearthstone Bennington for their greater capacity.

Also, the hearth for the current (and future) stove is inadequate. A hearth rug is a poor substitute for a proper, insulated, non-combustible hearth. A proper, permanent hearth extension should be considered.
 
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