Max Flue temp. This too hot?

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.
H

Hass

Minister of Fire
Mar 20, 2011
528
Alabama, NY
What would you guys estimate a max gas flue temp to be?
Edit; I just went up in the attic, and I can only keep my hands on the Class A pipe for about 15-20 seconds... is this normal? stove is burning on the highest setting right now for curing. Condar probe is at about 950.
 
Hass said:
What would you guys estimate a max gas flue temp to be?
Edit; I just went up in the attic, and I can only keep my hands on the Class A pipe for about 15-20 seconds... is this normal? stove is burning on the highest setting right now for curing. Condar probe is at about 950.
Click to expand...

I'd say you are at redline there.

If your double wall pipe is that hot, and reading 950 on the probe, that stove must really be cranking.

pen
 
+1- That stove is cranking!
 
pen said:
Hass said:
What would you guys estimate a max gas flue temp to be?
Edit; I just went up in the attic, and I can only keep my hands on the Class A pipe for about 15-20 seconds... is this normal? stove is burning on the highest setting right now for curing. Condar probe is at about 950.
Click to expand...

I'd say you are at redline there.

If your double wall pipe is that hot, and reading 950 on the probe, that stove must really be cranking.

pen
Click to expand...

Thanks... I don't know the exterior temp of the double wall... but the condar flue gas probe peaked about there. It's back down to about 600 now. The convection deck at the time was around 525-550... But I imagine the actually stove top had to be pretty hot... I had to stand 2 feet or so away from it or else I started to smell my pants heating up!

thanks for the new thread by the way... I try not to start new threads when I have a question since there's a new one made about every 3 seconds that relates to something else already being discussed :|
 
Man..those are almost nuke temps!
You're giving that Chinook a break in that's for sure!
 
HotCoals said:
Man..those are almost nuke temps!
You're giving that Chinook a break in that's for sure!
Click to expand...

You can't overfire something that has a thermostat on it, can ya? :p

It had about 525-550 for 2 hours... cut it down now, I doubt I'll rarely ever need to get that high again.
Heating 792sq/ft with it... Maybe I'll have I'll have to go past 1.5 if it gets -20 with 50mph winds.
 
950 flue inside temp doesnt seem that bad, if it was for a long time at 950 i would get worried tho.
 
Hass said:
HotCoals said:
Man..those are almost nuke temps!
You're giving that Chinook a break in that's for sure!
Click to expand...

You can't overfire something that has a thermostat on it, can ya? :p

It had about 525-550 for 2 hours... cut it down now, I doubt I'll rarely ever need to get that high again.
Heating 792sq/ft with it... Maybe I'll have I'll have to go past 1.5 if it gets -20 with 50mph winds.
Click to expand...

LOL..I bet that thermostat will let that stove over fire.
I'm heating a 2500 two story house with mine and on my single wall pipe 8 inches up from the stove I rarely see 300 degrees.
I check temps a lot with my ir gun also..kinda ocd bout it even.
17 decrees out now and nothing but a glow in the stove..500 stove top and 250 on the pipe..75 in the next room from the stove.
I did notice that I'm at about 30% for relative humidity.
The lower the R.H. is the less heat that can be retained in the air I'm told..I might try a humidifier...that could be another thread..lol.
 
HotCoals said:
LOL..I bet that thermostat will let that stove over fire.
I'm heating a 2500 two story house with mine and on my single wall pipe 8 inches up from the stove I rarely see 300 degrees.
I check temps a lot with my ir gun also..kinda ocd bout it even.
17 decrees out now and nothing but a glow in the stove..500 stove top and 250 on the pipe..75 in the next room from the stove.
I did notice that I'm at about 30% for relative humidity.
The lower the R.H. is the less heat that can be retained in the air I'm told..I might try a humidifier...that could be another thread..lol.
Click to expand...

flue gas temps are quite a bit higher than wall temps. I stuck up a thermometer on the double wall to check the outside of that so we'll see how it goes. It sure puts out some heat... Even though most of mine appears to be going up the chimney :
I think next time it's cool I'll check the bypass gasket to make sure it's all there and tight. Maybe some is leaking through there... and do the dollar bill check on the door.

Ohh you know what? In the manual it did say that after the first burn the door may require readjustment. I never checked it from factory either.
 
Hass said:
HotCoals said:
LOL..I bet that thermostat will let that stove over fire.
I'm heating a 2500 two story house with mine and on my single wall pipe 8 inches up from the stove I rarely see 300 degrees.
I check temps a lot with my ir gun also..kinda ocd bout it even.
17 decrees out now and nothing but a glow in the stove..500 stove top and 250 on the pipe..75 in the next room from the stove.
I did notice that I'm at about 30% for relative humidity.
The lower the R.H. is the less heat that can be retained in the air I'm told..I might try a humidifier...that could be another thread..lol.
Click to expand...

flue gas temps are quite a bit higher than wall temps. I stuck up a thermometer on the double wall to check the outside of that so we'll see how it goes. It sure puts out some heat... Even though most of mine appears to be going up the chimney :
I think next time it's cool I'll check the bypass gasket to make sure it's all there and tight. Maybe some is leaking through there... and do the dollar bill check on the door.

Ohh you know what? In the manual it did say that after the first burn the door may require readjustment. I never checked it from factory either.
Click to expand...
I'm sure that gas temps are higher..but dang!
I'm sure you will figure it out.
I'm trying to find some pics of that stove as to how it is put together inside..no luck yet.
Just curious if it is like the king.
My by-pass doesn't snap shut as hard as it did when i bought it.it was fairly hard to do then.
But all seems fine.. I'll check it out next summer .
Really interested in how that stove does for burn times.
 
HotCoals said:
I'm sure that gas temps are higher..but dang!
I'm sure you will figure it out.
I'm trying to find some pics of that stove as to how it is put together inside..no luck yet.
Just curious if it is like the king.
My by-pass doesn't snap shut as hard as it did when i bought it.it was fairly hard to do then.
But all seems fine.. I'll check it out next summer .
Really interested in how that stove does for burn times.
Click to expand...

Wow, I'm glad that it's supposed to be hard to snap shut. I feel like I'm workin' out at the gym after I open/close the bypass on it.
I intended to see how long you can go on softwood tonight, but after my last post I decided to just let it cool for the morning and check the gaskets before I go for 24/7. I put 3 splits in there, about 20lbs total... 2 were cottonwood, one was pine. if they're still burning in the morning... (probably 12-14 hours from now) I'll say this stove might be on to something.

Hey, I didn't notice you're from rochester! haha.
Don't tell me you bought your stove from Williamson... I went an hour further to syracuse to a vendor on these forums to buy my stove because Williamson didn't seem to even know what the Chinook was.
 
Hass said:
What would you guys estimate a max gas flue temp to be?
Edit; I just went up in the attic, and I can only keep my hands on the Class A pipe for about 15-20 seconds... is this normal? stove is burning on the highest setting right now for curing. Condar probe is at about 950.
Click to expand...

15-20 seconds?? That would scare me enough to stop burning. Even at full bore I can barely feel any warmth on the exterior of my class A pipe.
 
i was under the impression that flue gas temps are double what that pipe surface temps are
 
My condor said 1100 last night for about 20 min,.... sometimes before the beast settles ill see temps around 1000,... but for only a little while..(10-15 min) or so,.......... me no like
 
Trktrd said:
15-20 seconds?? That would scare me enough to stop burning. Even at full bore I can barely feel any warmth on the exterior of my class A pipe.
Click to expand...
It scared me pretty good I'll tell ya... but what could really be happening? No chance of a chimney fire yet. I think I might take my rutlands and stick it on the class A to see what it actually read. Probably was about 140-150 or so... not much more than that.

chipsoflyin said:
i was under the impression that flue gas temps are double what that pipe surface temps are
Click to expand...
The Condar booklet that came with it said that this is the case.


I think I'm going to email Ameri-tec and ask if the chimney pipe is supposed to get that hot, and if it's safe to run it that way. I should never have to, but in case one of the walls fall off the house or something I may need the extra heat.
I would also just like to add, it's been about an hour since I reloaded the stove... there is absolutely nothing going on in the stove, it honestly looks like the fire has gone out and it's sitting at about 350 and the cat probe is at half as far as I can tell those splits may just be there in the AM... looking exactly as they do now lol.
Stove is set on 1, flue gasses at 400, exterior of the DVL pipe at ~140...
 
You guys are aware that you are nuts dont ya, 950 probe =425 surface, I hit that every day, what are you guy smoking, that's in the safe burn range on the thermometer for crying out loud.
 
Then somebody's thermo must be off. The class a pipe should not be that hot.
 
The probe would be in his double wall stove pipe, and 950 internal is no way too hot for class A pipe.
 
Was talking about the external temp of the class A. He said he could not keep his hand on it for more than 20 seconds.
 
Trktrd said:
Was talking about the external temp of the class A. He said he could not keep his hand on it for more than 20 seconds.
Click to expand...
Not a problem!
 
Trktrd said:
Was talking about the external temp of the class A. He said he could not keep his hand on it for more than 20 seconds.
Click to expand...

20 seconds is pretty good for 900+f traveling through it.

EDIT: Actually that's exceptional. I would think 5 seconds would be darn good.
 
I'm sure it was fine..I guess some of us were just being to dramatic.
Just saying I doubt I would fire up that hot.
 
oldspark said:
The probe would be in his double wall stove pipe, and 950 internal is no way too hot for class A pipe.
Click to expand...
Correct, 18" above the stove top.

Just an update...
It's been on setting 1 for about 4-5 hours now with about 20lbs of wood... wood looks the same as when i put it in, just charred. I turned out all the lights to see the fire... the cat has a faint glow, and a little glow in the coal bed.
Stove top 325, Flue gasses about 310-320, Double wall exterior pipe is 135, I can hold my hand on it no problem. Cat is just over half way on the probe. House is still holding at 78, and it's 21 outside.
 
950 is nothing. Remember that condar probe meters read 20% high at this range. So you could easily run to 1200 and still be within class A rating which is 1000 continuous and 1600 for short bursts. Not positive on that short burst temp but I know that it is continuous at 1000 which is what makes it "class A". That pipe requires 2" to combustibles which means that it is supposed to get hot. A long burn at 1000 in the flue will be too hot to touch but won't catch the wood on fire 2" away. That's how it is supposed to work.

I routinely, daily, run my condar probe meter well past 1100 and often past 1200 for the daily flue warm up and clean up. Stoves and flues are supposed to get hot. I don't expect a BK flue to get quite that hot since the efficiecy is much higher than my non-cat and that heat should be introduced to the room in the superior BK design.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

M
can't reduce flue temps
Replies
17
Views
2K
The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces
begreen
begreen
High Desert Dennis
External Temp for 6" x 60" DuraTech Galvanized Chimney Pipe?
Replies
2
Views
569
The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces
High Desert Dennis
High Desert Dennis
N
Embers in flue elbow
Replies
1
Views
408
The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces
begreen
begreen
T
Randomly hot overnight fires
Replies
7
Views
2K
The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces
gthomas785
G
B
Tips and Suggestions For New Owner of an Old Timberline
Replies
4
Views
629
Classic Wood Stove Forums (prior to approx. 1993)
begreen
begreen
Top Bottom
Back