038 FarmBoss/036 - Interchangeable parts?

[gapman789]

I've an 036 that needs rebuilt. Cost to repair from a very reputable dealer is $382.
I've found an 038 Farmboss without bar/chain for $150 OBO. It also has a broken handle that has been duct-taped together.

My 036 is structurally in good shape; switches, the body/plastics, handle, bar/chain. Question is, could I combine the 2 saws to make one good saw?

 

[smokinj]

I think you can. Match the two saw up together before you buy.

 

[MasterMech]

I'd replace the handle on the 038 and run it. (B & C from the 036 will fit) Depending on what it needs, bench the 036 and fix it yourself.

 

[gapman789]

I'd replace the handle on the 038 and run it. (B & C from the 036 will fit) Depending on what it needs, bench the 036 and fix it yourself.

I probably will attempt to fix the 036 myself.
Of the $382 repair quote for the saw, $260 were parts. They were charging me 2 hrs. labor.
Not sure of everything they were replacing but here's some of the list that I remember seeing.

Piston/cylinder kit - $160 (not Stihl)
carb kit
base gasket
bearing ? (not crank/rod bearing)
clutch ?

I can do the nuts and bolts of fixing it, just not so sure about carb adjustment or what problem areas to look for.

Any suggestions on the piston/cylinder kits that are out there? I see a big variance in price on ebay on the kits.

 

[HittinSteel]

Baileys has a meteor p/c kit.....thats what Id use.

 

[MasterMech]

Bearing is for the clutch drum. Std Op is to replace it whenever the drum is replaced.

I'd start by completing the Piston/Cyl swap and getting the saw running. Evaluate it's condition from there before you buy a clutch and carb kit for it unless you know for sure that those items are shot. Saw should run like new when you're done.

 

[gapman789]

Bearing is for the clutch drum. Std Op is to replace it whenever the drum is replaced.

I'd start by completing the Piston/Cyl swap and getting the saw running. Evaluate it's condition from there before you buy a clutch and carb kit for it unless you know for sure that those items are shot. Saw should run like new when you're done.

Exactly the info I was looking for.
Upon inspection, the 036 had a lot of saw dust built up on the filter, I should say 'caked' on the filter; a tell-tell sign of a dull chain unbeknownst to me. (I now look for 'chips' when cutting). Which would have made the saw run very lean. That's what the shop is saying utlimately killed the saw.
The saw ran great up to that point. When it was 'dying', some smoke came out of the leftside cover. Like a burning, something got too hot- smoke.

BTW, the saw isn't seized. It pulls.

The shop was going to do the carb just as Std Op (standard operating procedure I assume).
And like you said, they said the saw would be like new.

Here's the saw. It's too nice of a saw to 'junk', right?

 

[MasterMech]

Give or take here. $400 beans is a lot to invest in a 036 when you can find 'em used and running for less than that but then again you'll have new P&C and the carb/clutch should be good as new. That pretty much wipes any concern I'd have with a used saw. Know what I'd have invested in it for parts, it'd be a definite go for a saw I was keeping for myself if I were also repairing it myself.

 

[HittinSteel]

Bearing is for the clutch drum. Std Op is to replace it whenever the drum is replaced.

I'd start by completing the Piston/Cyl swap and getting the saw running. Evaluate it's condition from there before you buy a clutch and carb kit for it unless you know for sure that those items are shot. Saw should run like new when you're done.

Exactly the info I was looking for.
Upon inspection, the 036 had a lot of saw dust built up on the filter, I should say 'caked' on the filter; a tell-tell sign of a dull chain unbeknownst to me. (I now look for 'chips' when cutting). Which would have made the saw run very lean. That's what the shop is saying utlimately killed the saw.
The saw ran great up to that point. When it was 'dying', some smoke came out of the leftside cover. Like a burning, something got too hot- smoke.

BTW, the saw isn't seized. It pulls.

The shop was going to do the carb just as Std Op (standard operating procedure I assume).
And like you said, they said the saw would be like new.

Here's the saw. It's too nice of a saw to 'junk', right?

Don't "junk" the saw. Tear it down and post some pictures of the cylinder. They will often times clean up with some muriatic acid and/or light sanding. Then all you'll really need is a meteor piston and rings for around $50. A carb kit should only be about $10 if the saw needs it. You may get lucky and be back in business for well under $100.

 

[Danno77]

I wanna see this piston, how bad is it?

 

[smokinj]

Pull the muffler and take a few close-up....

 

[Danno77]

Pull the muffler and take a few close-up....

And while you are at it, yank the carb and let's see the intake side of it, too.

 

[gapman789]

Will do guys. I'll be tearing it down this weekend and I'll post pics.
When it was at the shop for inspection/repair estimate, they did take the muffler off and show me the scored piston. So that much I'm sure of.

 

[amateur cutter]

I'm better master mech is right, & the jug will clean up. They usually do unless they swallowed a foreign object. Don't junk that old girl, send it here, & I'll put her back to work. A C

 

[gapman789]

Here are some pics of the p/c. Can't believe the rings on the front of the piston were completely shaved down. You can't tell that they're even there.

So looks like p/c for sure sure. I've heard of Baileys, Tecomec, and Meteor? What's the consensus on a P/C kit, besides going STIHL?

Also, is there a way to clean the dust and oil and all-around crap thats caked on this saw in every little nook and cranny?
Can I just spray the heck out of it with an engine degreaser, carb cleaner, or something of the like?

 

[Danno77]

That's the exhaust side of the piston, right? I can't tell, but the cylinder wall looks ok from what I can tell.

As for cleaning. I use a lot of simple green and compressed air these days. Seems to work well for me. Wear goggles and expect a mess.

 

[gapman789]

Yes, that's the exhaust side. Lost my digital camera, so those pics aren't the best from an EVO 4g. There are definite scratches in the cylinder. Not so sure those will clean up. I'll take it to the shop and see what they say.

I can definitely see simple green and compressed air making a helluva mess....but if that's the trick, that's what I'll do.

 

[Danno77]

It sure would be nice to get a Stihl p/c, but for the price new you are looking at a complete and nice looking used saw. You could go through three of these for the price of a Stihl:
http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=CKN+036&catID;=
I can't say anything about quality of them, but it's what I'd be looking at!

 

[HittinSteel]

Can you catch your fingernail on the scratches in the cylinder?

I would take the saw to the shop and ask them to pressure and vacuum test the crankcase.

If it passes, install this http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=MCA+CC1458&CAT;= and away you go.

 

[Danno77]

Can you catch your fingernail on the scratches in the cylinder?

I would take the saw to the shop and ask them to pressure and vacuum test the crankcase.

If it passes, install this http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=MCA+CC1458&CAT;= and away you go.

Why doesn't that show up when you go here? I thought maybe they weren't carrying it anymore.
http://tinyurl.com/7k6wntb

Edit: nevermind. a second look shows that they are out of stock. Maybe call and ask if they will be getting more?