066, what can be said??

thanks guys. i will dump fuel and bar oil and start fresh. i am a novice at tuning. i will search the threads and come back with questions if i have any. can i find out about how old it is using the serial number? oh, its got the poly flywheel also.

Look on the side of the saw. There should be an H, L and LA screws. Without hearing the saw it is tough to tell you what to do. But you won't hurt anything by turning the L a hair counterclockwise and the LA screw clockwise.

H= High Speed adjustment (don't mess with this one until you know what your doing)
L= Low speed adjustment
LA= Idle speed adjustment

By turning the L counterclockwise, you are supplying more fuel. Turn just a hair clockwise.

Then turn the LA screw clockwise until the chain starts to move then back off (counterclockwise) until the chain stops moving.

This should give you a decent idle.

Here is a good link for the beginner. The only thing to remember is don't turn the H screw clockwise unless you know what your doing. It could lean out the saw and cause damage. Other than that, you can make the saw run like crap while learning, but you won't cause any damage. Also, an 1/8 of a turn will change the attitude of the saw, so very small adjustments are best.

http://web.archive.org/web/20060316084604/www.madsens1.com/sawtune.htm

Send me the serial and next trip to my Stihl dealer, I'll tell you all I can.

147499912, this is the number on the powerhead next to the top edge of the bar.

thanks for the info HS. i really dont think this saw has many hours on it, pretty clean on the inside. i think all the scratches on the cover are just from being moved around the garage as it was VERY cluttered. fuel filter is clean. will change spark plug. if i go to something like a max-flow air filter kit, will i need to mess around with that H screw?

I have all the respect in the world for smokinj... He probably spends more hours with his saw each week than many of us do in a year, I must be missing something with this talk of "big" 460's. They're only 76 cc, fairly tame next to a 92 cc 066 mag.

Most likely, yes, I re-tune even after cleaning the stock filter.

I woodn't bother with a HP air filter . You'll shorten the life of the saw.
Keep your filter clean. Knock it and the bandanna out every hour or 2 of operation. It only takes 2 minutes.
That 066 will last you the rest of your wood cutting life if you dont jack wit it !

Bucking wood under 16" they are practically the same saw. It's bore cutting or burying the tip in some big stuff where the 066 shines.

Just depends on the wood. You can hold rpm pretty high with a 460. (Its where I like to be) I dont use a mid range saw (50-60cc) I do see why people love the 066's but at my size then I would need a 50cc for sure.

I think a big part of the weight comments are related to bar length. Most are likely running just a wee little bit more than 25" of bar on their 92 cc saws. A long bar makes a world of difference in extended weight, and how heavy a saw feels at the end of a long day of use.

True. My 288 w/ 28" b/c & full tanks weighs 25 lbs on my (unfortunately) very accurate bathroom scale.I can sure feel it after a long day milling or bucking big rounds.Its comparable newer model is almost 3 lbs less.

I agree, my 660 with a 25 inch bar is very comfortable, with a 36 inch bar it is heavy, but for milling it is in the log most of the time and not an issue. I haven't used it with a 36 inch bar in a tree yet, but it will be coming up as I have several trees that are 4 foot in diameter.

finally got around to messing with this thing. wifey took off for the day at 5am with the kid, off to the barn i go!
i tihnk it was just running crappy due to old fuel. refueled with high octane and stihl ultra hp. seems to be running great! i will be keeping the 25" bar on it. waiting for a pair of chaps to come in before i really see what it is capable of...

on a side note, came across an add on CL "one craftsman chainsaw runs great. could use blade sharpening or use as is. has a case. other is a homelite and it doesnt run dont know why. also has a case. asking 100$ for the pair"
i offered him $20 for the homelite as i wasnt really interested in the craftsman. he said ok, as long as i take the craftsman also. sure, whatever. picked them up, didnt look other than a glance that they were in the case.
checked them out a bit better this morning and cleaned them up and sharpened chains. craftsman chain was on backwards. runs great! suprised me actually after i took out some sort of very restricting plate in the muffler. with plate, exhaust only had about 1/16" to travel through after it when through flame screen.
homelite had the return spring in the trigger assembly knocked out of place. fixed that and started up first pull with fresh fuel! gonna ask that guy if he has any other old equipment that he wants to get rid of...

I tried this link and its bad. The one I use (which still seems to be good) is:

http://www.ehow.com/how_5022893_tune-chainsaw-carburetor.html

Never ran a 066 but ran an 076 many times...the power factor is fun but really not practical for my scenario or burning 3 cords a year. Though I keep looking around for a 460 for cheap money. lol

Gotta love Craigslist and people who are cleaning their garage!

Yahbut... not too many folks find a spare 460 lying unused in their garage.

Tell me about it!! Very few on Ebay too. One toy at a time right now though. I think the backhoe was my toy allowance for the year with the Mrs!

This spring though...when she wants me to take down some more trees for pasture...the BIG ONES and the giant cedars next to the house...gonna have to just tell her "WE" need a bigger saw.

this tihng is AWESOME! not too heavy for how i intend to use it. im gonna say that i dont even think it drinks too much fuel considering the ammount of chips it makes. definatly a happy guy here.

Cool! I think I'm going to have to put a small bar on mine and give it a try. It cuts so amazingly fast, but the longer bar makes it very nose heavy, to the point where you have to push down on the rear handle when lifting it by the front, to prevent the nose of the bar from bumping the ground. That extended weight makes it hard on the back when using it for any length of time.

My thoughts as well.

Looks like you were making use of those bucking spikes - essential on a high power heavier saw.
What's the old hauler? I'm a sucker for American iron and eastern bloc magnesium

I thought the same thing.... I wanna see more pics of that Truck

Very nice.

that i believe. feels nice with the shorter bar i have though.

1987 JEEP J-20. when they made them they had more ground clearance and a lower center of gravity than any other stock pickup. 38k original miles. originally was a fire department truck. it is an awesome vehicle for hauling rounds out of the woods. 3/4 ton, 360 with dana 44 front and full floater 60 rear. my brother and i are AMC guys. trying to finish building a CJ-5 also...

here is a couple pics from last winter.