1 Ton Cleaning Question

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kmapsrule

Member
Oct 27, 2011
64
Southern Tier, NY
So I hit 1 ton burned, Did a deep clean of the inside of the stove,
took the side panel off and vacuumed off all the motors and squirrel cages.

I don't have a leaf blower (its on the list) so i ran a 3inch dryer lint brush
from the outside as deep as i could get it then i hooked the shop vac to the end of the vent and let it suck for about 10 minutes.

Is that sufficient? I know that the shop vac doesn't have the level of suction that a leaf blower does.
 
That's about all I do , but monthly. I have to take a tooth brush to my blower cages fins to get them clean.
 
As long as you got all the hidden ash in the ash traps too, you should be good to go.

BTW, are there any oiling ports on the convection motor, or both? 2-3 drops of 20w oil (3-in-1 in blue can, for example) in those is good to do too after 1 ton cleaning.
 
imacman said:
As long as you got all the hidden ash in the ash traps too, you should be good to go.

BTW, are there any oiling ports on the convection motor, or both? 2-3 drops of 20w oil (3-in-1 in blue can, for example) in those is good to do too after 1 ton cleaning.
Yes, thank you, I should have mentioned that I oiled the motors too.


The manual doesn't mention ash traps is there a specific spot in the exhaust train where these would be?
 
kmapsrule said:
The manual doesn't mention ash traps is there a specific spot in the exhaust train where these would be?

If it has them, there is usually a cleanout port(s) at the back of the firebox. Many stoves have a pair of small doors that can be removed for vacuum access. Another way is to remove the combustion blower and go backwards that way.

You might also consider using the "leaf blower trick" that is mentioned here often, ESPECIALLY if you find out there's no ash trap cleanouts.

BTW, you might try calling the company and asking their tech people.
 
imacman said:
kmapsrule said:
The manual doesn't mention ash traps is there a specific spot in the exhaust train where these would be?

If it has them, there is usually a cleanout port(s) at the back of the firebox. Many stoves have a pair of small doors that can be removed for vacuum access. Another way is to remove the combustion blower and go backwards that way.

You might also consider using the "leaf blower trick" that is mentioned here often, ESPECIALLY if you find out there's no ash trap cleanouts.

BTW, you might try calling the company and asking their tech people.
aah! ok
yeah there is an access panel and the outlet to the exhaust blower is visible behind the panel , there is also a 1/4 inch space along the bottom of the fire box into the area that the panel opens to, I use a tapered dryer lint brush shoved down into this space from behind the heat tubes and through the panel port and shop vac up the
ash as it falls out the 1/4 inch space along the bottom.

The leaf blower is on the spring shopping list. Just not able to expenditure one this month with the 33 people that are somehow on the Christmas gift list.
 
Is that a positive pressue stove or negetive pressure stove? When the stove is running and you open the door does it blow ashes in or out?

Eric
 
kinsman stoves [email said:
[email protected][/email]]Is that a positive pressue stove or negetive pressure stove? When the stove is running and you open the door does it blow ashes in or out?

Eric
Negative, the ashes blow in, However the previous years model was a postive pressure stove, there is a different exhaust plumbing setup in this model than the previous year



http://tinyurl.com/7fp22dx
 
That is good to hear cause I have a warehouse with a few positive pressure stoves that the hoppers caught fire. Lucky no one was hurt and no damage was done.

Eric
 
kinsman stoves [email said:
[email protected][/email]]That is good to hear cause I have a warehouse with a few positive pressure stoves that the hoppers caught fire. Lucky no one was hurt and no damage was done.

Eric
That is a scary thought, I am not entirely happy with this stove and will be looking to get a better one in a year or two, but the price was right,
It has already paid for itself and some of the pellets in savings over propane, This old cinder block house has
no insulation between the plaster and concrete and just wicks the heat away from the radiators.
 
How has the stove been burning? Dont hear of these to often. Seems they have made a lot of changes to the stove (good thing). Just wondering your take on it? As not a lot of people here have one and its interesting to hear how well it does.

Also, do you have any pics of the burn pot? Heat exchange system? Always has intrigued me to see the "guts" of different or newer models. If not, no big deal. But it seems like a pretty unit.

Also, does it utilize an agitator in the pot to burn corn? Or does it have whats referred to a "Clinker Pot" that has to be emptied? Sorry for the questions.

Beautiful stove with the brass legs and door though.
 
kmapsrule said:
kinsman stoves [email said:
[email protected][/email]]That is good to hear cause I have a warehouse with a few positive pressure stoves that the hoppers caught fire. Lucky no one was hurt and no damage was done.

Eric
That is a scary thought, I am not entirely happy with this stove and will be looking to get a better one in a year or two, but the price was right,
It has already paid for itself and some of the pellets in savings over propane, This old cinder block house has
no insulation between the plaster and concrete and just wicks the heat away from the radiators.

I no longer sell them. I do have one heck of a scrap run coming in the spring and these will be the first ones in the truck.

Eric
 
Was typing before you posted the last response. Guess it answered some questions.

Does it not heat well enough? Or is it a dirty/bad burn?

Sorry for the list of questiins...
 
DexterDay said:
How has the stove been burning? Dont hear of these to often. Seems they have made a lot of changes to the stove (good thing). Just wondering your take on it? As not a lot of people here have one and its interesting to hear how well it does.





Also, do you have any pics of the burn pot? Heat exchange system? Always has intrigued me to see the "guts" of different or newer models. If not, no big deal. But it seems like a pretty unit.

Also, does it utilize an agitator in the pot to burn corn? Or does it have whats referred to a "Clinker Pot" that has to be emptied? Sorry for the questions.

Beautiful stove with the brass legs and door though.


It burns pellets really well, It pretty much eats anything I feed it,
I ran a few bags of Dry Creek pellets through it that had a LOT of longer pellets in them and the auger never had any issues.
I like the very simple controls, there are minimal electronics in it.
I like the fact that the stove is basically engineered to need an OAK, I do not like the venting pipe setup that is sold with it though
( basically a single wall stainless steel 5" outer ring with a 3" inner single wall stainless ring. I replaced the inner core with ICC in my install).
But it is ultimately a stove designed to burn corn, with pellet/multi-fuel added on as an after thought.
HA! Clinker pot! I like that term, that is exactly what happens, About every 30 hours I need to shut the stove off and empty the pot, there is no agitator.

I will take and post pictures of the inside tomorrow when I shut it down again.
 
DexterDay said:
Was typing before you posted the last response. Guess it answered some questions.

Does it not heat well enough? Or is it a dirty/bad burn?

Sorry for the list of questiins...

Never apologize for questions, without curiosity nothing would ever be learned or happen :)

It is mainly the fact that there is no ash drawer and I have to shut it down every day to clean it
I had some energex pellets that were really ashy to the point that the ash would pile up on the side plates
and slide down and stifle the fire after 3/4 of a bag. An agitator/ash pan/drawer would help. Also we want to add onto and renovate the house if we can swing it
within the next 2 years so a different location and bigger unit will be eventually needed.
 
pics for DexterDay

The Stove:
100_5877.JPG

Lid/hopper open:
100_5888.JPG

The Back:
100_5883.JPG

The Controls:
100_5907.JPG

The Pot, Airwash Guide and "Heat Boost" Plates
100_5891.JPG

Empty Fire Box:
100_5893.JPG

Heat Tubes:
100_5897.JPG

Fire Pot No Heat Plates:
100_5900.JPG

Fire Pot Heat Plates:
100_5901.JPG

Heat Tubes with heat plate:
100_5902.JPG



Thanks everyone for answering my questions
Have a happy holidays
I'm going to enjoy a week away from internet with family :)

Dexter, My bottom line evaluation is that this is a great stove for a cottage or a shop/garage but not as the 24/7 primary burner.
 
tomorrow i will see how my everyday cleaning regime has paid off.
the weather seems to be favorable for me to clean the flue with the linteater.
nice and warm tonight 33 f at the moment.
so the house will be warm front to back early in the morning and i can let the stove cool down really good before i start.
i've burned a few bags over a ton.
i plan on using the shop vac adapter that comes w/ the linteater.
i just hope it fits the vent pipe.
i'm thinking the inner liner may make it not work how it would with just a singe wall dryer vent.
if not, there's always duct tape.
 
Don't know about your stove, but my Harman has a small compartment on the back for any "fines" that build-up from the auger. May want to check for that as well. Usually, only have to do this once or twice a heating season.
 
St_Earl said:
tomorrow i will see how my everyday cleaning regime has paid off.
the weather seems to be favorable for me to clean the flue with the linteater.
nice and warm tonight 33 f at the moment.
so the house will be warm front to back early in the morning and i can let the stove cool down really good before i start.
i've burned a few bags over a ton.
i plan on using the shop vac adapter that comes w/ the linteater.
i just hope it fits the vent pipe.
i'm thinking the inner liner may make it not work how it would with just a singe wall dryer vent.
if not, there's always duct tape.

Keep us posted ST Earl! I have the same linteater kit and will be taking advantage of a couple days off next week and do a full cleaning. I tested out the shop vac adapter on my selkirk termination and it fit nicely. I just had to buy a fitting so my RIGID shopvac hose would fit. I remember mention of disconnecting a vacuum hose on the stove while doing the leaf blower trick but I'd imagine it would be a good idea to do when using the shop vac. Now I just gotta figure out where mine is on my stove. I haven't taken the back panels off much to really investigate. Just haven't had time.
 
mepellet said:
Keep us posted ST Earl! I have the same linteater kit and will be taking advantage of a couple days off next week and do a full cleaning. I tested out the shop vac adapter on my selkirk termination and it fit nicely. I just had to buy a fitting so my RIGID shopvac hose would fit. I remember mention of disconnecting a vacuum hose on the stove while doing the leaf blower trick but I'd imagine it would be a good idea to do when using the shop vac. Now I just gotta figure out where mine is on my stove. I haven't taken the back panels off much to really investigate. Just haven't had time.

all finished.
since my vent terminates high up outside, it isn't practical to use the shop vac.
plus the fact my vac has the 1 1/2 " hose. too small to easily work w/ the lint eater.
actually, i don't think it would have done anything but make things more difficult.
as it was, it was really easy.
there was a fair amount of build up in the final cap. and a fair amount in the horizontal run.
my only surprise was how little there was from the vertical run when i took the cap of the tee after running the linteater.

THE LINTEATER IS FANTASTIC.

i have to say, my heatilator has like zero nooks and crannies. the more i look at pics of other stoves, the more pleased i am with the design of mine as far as the whole cleaning issue is concerned.
i'm definitely NOT in any way bashing any other stoves.
they all have different qualities.
i am just super pleased with my ps50.

literally there are only four totally smooth, flush walls in the firebox excepting the rails the three back baffles hang on. and then the channel to the combustion blower.
and the chute where the pellets drop catches a little ash. but it is right there to brush and vac out.
i'm glad of that. because the leaf blower thing would be a real pain for me with where the pipe terminates.

i may however use the leafblower from the inside out from the cleanout tee during the spring cleaning. just to get the flue as clean as possible.
 
How did you remove the ash that the linteater took off the inside of the vent? Just let it fall to your tee behind the stove?My Selkirk terminates horizontally so all I gotta do is take the nozzle off, remove the screen and stick the shop vac adapter on. Looking forward to trying it out now. Still gotta locate the vacuum hose.
 
i actually just kept pulling it out of the horizontal run.
just ran it back and forth a lot and kept pulling it out the end of the pipe.
then i removed the bottom cap from the cleanout tee inside and got a surprisingly small amount from there
like well less than a cup. probably less than half a cup actually.
and i ran the linteater a lot., spent a lot of time with the brush in the 90 degree elbow too.
plus i did the knock on the pipe when i was done.
it really is the horizontal that catches it all.

if i had a ground level termination i would probably give the shop vac a try even if i had to tape the too small hose to the adapter.
having the cleanout tee outside would be the easiest. but i'm glad we have the vertical inside. even if it is a small amount of therms, we get the heat from the pipe. and the hole is one that we could fit a different stove too if it ever came to that.
being on the ladder with the drill isn't really that hard.
i just have to step down a bit on the ladder at the point where all four rods are hooked up and i want to "pull out".
 
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