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1000 gal LP tank en-route

Post in 'The Boiler Room - Wood Boilers and Furnaces' started by nwomatt, Nov 15, 2012.

  1. nwomatt

    nwomatt Member

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    I just scooped up a 1000 gal LP tank nearly free of charge which I plan to use for water storage. I hope to get it home this wknd. Not sure of the bungs that are in it and definitly not sure of the ones that need to be put in it. My neighbour and good friend welds for a living and will be home from work soon. I hop to put him back to work. Was wondering what type/size of fittings i should put in the tank and location of these. I've heard to put them in the top at both ends, in the bottom at both ends, both. Not sure what to do. I realize it probably depends alot on the type of system i plan to run. but there can only be so many ways to do this right?

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  2. Clarkbug

    Clarkbug Minister of Fire

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    How are you going to orient your tank? I only ask because there are some that have put that size tank vertically.

    Wait until you get the tank and look at it first to decide what you need to do with it. You might be all set without having to do anything!
  3. goosegunner

    goosegunner Minister of Fire

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    I had 2" couplings put in top and bottom of both ends. I ended up I piping like the simple pressurized storage sticky, so I supply to top one end and return to opposite end bottom. The load T's off both supply and return.

    I use the other bottom port for a drain.

    While it seems to work well, in the future I may pipe boiler to one end and loads off the other end.

    So put the ports in while you can it will give you options and does not cost much to do.

    gg
  4. nwomatt

    nwomatt Member

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    the tank will be horizontal.
  5. Fred61

    Fred61 Minister of Fire

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    Don't use cast fittings!
  6. maple1

    maple1 Minister of Fire

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    You can get by with two main fittings - top of one end & bottom of other. You can use Ts in line outside the tank to T your boiler & load lines in. Mine aren't right at the top & bottom, but rather up high & down low on the ends - if I explained that right. That leaves a little space on the very top for air to get captured, and a little space at the bottom for dirt to settle. 1-1/4 should be adequate. Then I also have two small fittings, one up top at the highest point for bleeding air where it would get trapped or letting it in if I need to drain it, and the other at the lowest point where the dirt would settle for a drain (my tanks are not sitting exactly level - they are tipped up on one end just a little bit). My tank had tappings already that accomodated half of those I needed - so see what you have for existing tappings when you get it. With any luck you might already have enough. I'd advise to not cut & weld any more than necessary - the more of that done, the more chances for leaks. And beware cast fittings. :confused:
  7. stee6043

    stee6043 Minister of Fire

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    Based on the stories I've read here you may want to ask your neighbor what kind of welding he does. Not all welders are created equal. I'm not sure how you folks north of the border handle these types of projects but I can only assume a properly tagged ASME pressure vessel is not something you are concerned with at this point.
  8. maple1

    maple1 Minister of Fire

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    I didn't concern myself too much with it. Can't say for sure that was the 100% right thing to do though.

    The propane tanks started out as a pressue vessels, and my fittings were welded on by an ASME certified shop & welder - which I kept the work order from - but suspect that likely still doesn't result in a vessel that is overall a 'proper' ASME vessel.
  9. goosegunner

    goosegunner Minister of Fire

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    Only a few boilers are ASME. I don't believe any of the European boilers are.

    gg

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