1000 sf in Northern Wisc. (f500 Oslo Question)

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OnlyInWisc

New Member
Jun 10, 2012
6
Hello all,

I just purchased my retirement home, while researching wood stoves I found Hearth.com
Here’s my story and I’m sticking to it.

Went and visited the showroom and explained the following:

1. Home 8 years old 1000 sf
2. 6”side walls R44 in ceiling
3. Basement is poured using the foam forms so both sides of the concrete are insulated

*So I’m thinking a pretty tight little house.

The salesman states that the f500 Oslo is the ticket but from reading on this forum my fires would be smaller generating a lot of creosote. Although I would appreciate the side door I am wondering if I am just being up sold.

Matte Black- $2409.00
Full install,Travel and tax $4278.00

Thanks in advance for any advice
 
Sounds like it might be oversized a bit if this is just heating the main floor. But tell us a bit more about where the stove will be located and the general floorplan (open or closed off). Does 1000 sq ft include the basement? Are there tall ceilings and lots of windows or standard 8' ceiling throughout?

Also, are you set on Jotul or considering any other stoves?
 
I agree with begreen. Seems like a lot of stove for a small area.

but from reading on this forum my fires would be smaller generating a lot of creosote.
This is actually incorrect. Small hot fires are fine. It's when you have a smoldering, smokey fire is where the creosote comes into play.
 
I should also ask how is the stove going to be used? As a primary heater or on weekends and evenings?
 
Begreen,
Those are some good questions,
The ceilings are standard height throughout the entire Main floor.
Layout: See attached pic, Box on left wall represents f500 to scale. Not a perfect blueprint but you get the idea.
The aprox 1000 sf is per level
The basement is currently wide open with a new Lennox High Eff Furnace, which I am thinking just running the fan should evenly distribute the heat making it 2000sf ?
Windows were well placed (the sketch is incorrect) A Monster in the living room 4x8 min
Each bd has a 4x4 and a small window over the sink, not a lot of glass but some beautiful views.
And yes I am a Jotul fan, Heated my current home with a Jotul gas for the last 9 years. Gas co came and said my meter was broke J.

This will be a fulltime home. Hope to be 100% wood in two years
Any comments on price quote?

Browningbar - Q: If you can have a smaller fire (f500) is the fuel consumption to output equal to a burn of the same amount of wood in a smaller unit?
Thanks again for the input
 

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Looks like the space would be easy to heat. I'm not sure about the plan to use the heating system blower to recirc air. to heat the basement. The area sounds very well insulated so it might work, though with higher electric costs. Worth a try for a season to see what you think.

If you are heating 2000 sq ft then the Oslo is a better fit. But if you think that a lot of the time you would only be heating 1000 sq ft then I would consider a smaller catalytic stove like the Woodstock Keystone or perhaps the Dutchwest 2461? They would be able to burn smaller fires for an extended period without smoldering.

The Oslo price seems a bit high for the summertime. I would call around to some other dealers and ask for a quote on the same stove. And ask if they have a floor model they are willing to deal on.
 
You have the same sized house as me in the same climate but probably better insulataion. The Oslo is too big for 1000 sq ft imo, you would be feeding it 1 stick every couple hours to keep it going and prevent being cooked out. The furnace fan won't help much, many have tried a found poor results. If your a Jotul fan the Castine may be a better fit but I think you would still have to burn short hot fires most of the time.

Take a look at Woodstock, the Keystone has no problem with a well insulated smaller home and has much more control of the output with a full load than a similar sized non cat stove. I can comfortably heat my 1000 sq ft main level with my Keystone loading it only 2 to 3 times per day. If you want to heat 24/7 you don't want to have to fuss with your stove every couple hours, you want to load up, set it and let it cruise.
 
Just talked to Penny @ Woodstock,

If the stoves are as good as their customer service I won't have any more Jotul questions.

Todd: don't know if it's proper to ask but are you any where near Butternut / Park Falls area
 
I'll be the guy....Get your wood now!
 
Good point James. A modern stove with less than ideal wood may disappoint. You will want to have at least 2-3 cords of seasoned wood on hand. And be very skeptical of the claims that the wood is seasoned. Ask them when it was cut, split and stacked. If less than a year ago, it may not be seasoned, especially if it's oak.

OIW, Woodstock's service and guarantee are hard to beat. I think this is a fine fit.
 
Boy I'm glad I found this site.

James I hear you loud and clear it’s already on my short list, In my area they buy it by the semi load I think its 9 or 11 cord per

Not to date myself but my first burner was a Volcano ?? back in the early 70’s Closed box with a secondary burning chamber connected to a forced air system. Never paid a heat bill for 7 years living in Rochester MN.

Thanks for the help, will keep you updated.
 
Just talked to Penny @ Woodstock,

If the stoves are as good as their customer service I won't have any more Jotul questions.

Todd: don't know if it's proper to ask but are you any where near Butternut / Park Falls area

Your a couple hours NE of me. I'm in Chippewa Falls area
 
For this year I would buy already split and as dry as possible.
 
For this year I would buy already split and as dry as possible.
This. A million times this.

If you know you will have a stove this winter, literally call a wood supplier tomorrow and order 4-8 cords of wood.
 
You will want to buy wood that is something besides oak and stack it in a really open, sunny, spot (which will typically also be as windy a spot as you have available). You're beter off with pine or aspen (often considered undesirable firewood) than with oak because the pine or aspen will be drier by fall. Probably the ideal choice is ash which dries fast and should be readily available because Emerald Ash Borers are killing all the ash trees in your region.

If I were choosing a stove I'd choose one with long burn times and good control (an ability to burn low but clean) as the most important features. Sure, tending the fire, adding a log or two, etc. seems like a nice way to spend a snowy winter day, but if wood is your primary heat and you have to tend the stove for 7 months of the year, the less work the better. Keep in mind that most of the heating season is "shoulder season" and normal/mild winter weather. The really cold winter weather doesn't last all that long even in Wisconsin so you don't want a stove that is perfect for frigid weather but hard to run in more typical conditions.
 
Wood Duck: I am surprised to hear pine as a fuel source, I guess it’s because I had all the red elm and oak I could cut.
I have at least 3-4 cords of pine to cut next week in preparation for a garage which I figured would end up as camp fire wood.
Would it burn the same in catalytic or non ?, Think I am leaning towards the Woodstock Keystone.
Logging is going on all around me with a paper mill in the next town, lots of areas you can go in and scavenge the tops of primarily Maple, Ash and Aspin. I am also located very close to National forest lands that give cutting permits, along with my 20 and 100’s adjoining.

Todd: what are the dems on your Keystone hearth? Being a wood worker I have made several and look forward to making something unique.
Thanks guys.
 
If I didn't own a Jotul that I love . . . I would own a Woodstock.
 
100_1659.JPG 100_1126.JPG My main floor stove is inside a remodeled fireplace and basement stove is on a 5' x 5' brick hearth on top of the cement slab. Woodstock has some good info on hearth size and requirements you should take a look at.
 
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