Picked up a 1988 Buick Park Avenue with 103,000 miles and was thinking about changing the automatic transmission fluid. I am worried that the mileage might be too high to change it at this point (assuming it has never been done before). Anyone have any opinions about whether or not I should change the fluid? I’m a firm believer in maintenance but sometimes like to leave automatic transmissions alone if they have some mileage and haven’t had the fluid changed at regular intervals. Thanks.
1988 Buick Park Avenue
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smokinj
Minister of Fire
If you dont know for sure I would not chage it! Nice Car by the way..One of my all time favorites!
smokinj
Minister of Fire
ponyboync said:
With a 100k on it the only thing I would do is change the radiator fluid and oil. Watch your coolant weekly to make sure the head gasket is bullet proof. ;-)
If the clutch material is in the fluid itself, a flush will do nothing more than make it shift harder. Coolant flush is definetly reccomended. Head gaskets and or intake gaskets are a known issue on those aluminum motors. Good motors otherwise.
The coolant was low when I got it. Radiator does look a little weak. I think this motor is all cast iron but you got me worried about the head gasket already. I'm going to check the coolant right now.
smokinj
Minister of Fire
ponyboync said:
I would just flush it good and then keep an eye on it. 100k isnt much on a car that old....Someone used that car for weekends only! ;-)
ponyboync said:
It may be iron.....I'm probably thinking of the newer 3.1....I misread your post....thought it said 1998.
smokinj
Minister of Fire
Bocefus78 said:
Yep Yep....But a boost kit on and cut a 2 foot off each end and call it a grand national!
smokinjay said:
Yup. I think grandma used it to get groceries. It has an old bumper sticker on it that says "My Grandson Is In The U.S. Army". I'm gonna leave it on the car.
smokinj
Minister of Fire
ponyboync said:
Flush it out good and chances are it will be an awsome car. Love riding in them!
If the fluid is pink or brownish pink for hte trans, go ahead and change it. DO NOT FLUSH IT though - don't use one of those machines that uses pressure to force lots of new fluid through while taking out the old fluid. Simply change the fluid.
If the fluid is burnt/dark brown and opaque, consider your options.
Great car, great engine, great trans. A little maintenance and it'll be a work horse.
If the fluid is burnt/dark brown and opaque, consider your options.
Great car, great engine, great trans. A little maintenance and it'll be a work horse.
Thanks joe. I hear the dealers like to "flush" it with those machines because it is easier on them. Then they want to charge more because it is "better" than a regular drain and fill.
There is no way to completely remove all the trans fluid with the unit in the car. Flush machines just feed in new fluid while removing the old at the same time. If the fluid doesn't smell cooked and looks dark red/pink (not brown/black) then I wouldn't be afraid to flush/change it. Be sure to change the filter at the same time. The "don't touch it" theory is for transmissions that have been severely neglected (and are on borrowed time anyways) where fresh fluid would act as a detergent and loosen up all the baked on crud inside the transmission, clogging the filter and starving it for oil, which leads to increasing fluid/trans temperatures, causing clutch pack slippage, more temp increases, and finally a fried transmission.
If you're concerned about the head gaskets then you can have the cooling system pressure tested for leaks and the coolant itself tested for combustion gases. If you do a lot of your own coolant changes, consider buying a vacuum coolant refill tool. Puts your whole cooling system under a vacuum (also a good leak check) before you open a valve to feed coolant into the system. It's damn slick and eliminates any problems with air-locked cooling systems after you refill. No more start it up, warm it up, bleeding the system, etc. Just fill it, cap it, and be DONE. No spills either. There are a few DIY models that are not prohibitively expensive but you do need an air compressor to make it go.
If you're concerned about the head gaskets then you can have the cooling system pressure tested for leaks and the coolant itself tested for combustion gases. If you do a lot of your own coolant changes, consider buying a vacuum coolant refill tool. Puts your whole cooling system under a vacuum (also a good leak check) before you open a valve to feed coolant into the system. It's damn slick and eliminates any problems with air-locked cooling systems after you refill. No more start it up, warm it up, bleeding the system, etc. Just fill it, cap it, and be DONE. No spills either. There are a few DIY models that are not prohibitively expensive but you do need an air compressor to make it go.
Thanks Master. That's some real good information. I do need to check into that vacuum coolant refill tool and should really do more coolant changes on all the vehicles.
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