2 Q's on Splitter Maintenance

Post in 'The Gear' started by thinkxingu, Aug 12, 2010.

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  1. thinkxingu

    thinkxingu
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    1. It came with Shell's Tellus 32 for hydraulic fluid, but no one seems to sell that around here. When the time comes, can I top it off with a different fluid, do I need to find Tellus, or should I empty it and replace with something else?

    2. The Honda engine says to use 10W30, but I use Mobil 1 5W30 for everything I have--can I use that in the Honda? BTW, this is because I can buy a 5 quart jug for $20 (same price as 4 quart sizes) and my truck only takes 3.5, so I always have 1.5 quarts left over.

    S
     
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  2. CountryBoy19

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    I'm far from an expert, but I'll tell you (from experience on the farm) that you should be fine on both questions.

    Some people may say you could run into problems with the anti-foaming chemicals in multiple hydraulic fluids mixing, but we've switched fluids on the farm before (impossible to get it out of all the equipment) and never had any problems.
     
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  3. kevin j

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    shell tellus is s good petroleum based premium fluid, been around for decades.
    Any good brand name petroelum based fluid should be compatable.
    I would stay with antiwear hydr fluid, not mix ATF or engine oil. They are good fluids, but different additive packages. I am not a fan of engine oil due to the moisture holding characteristics of engine oil vs. AWhydr oil.
    I would probably go to 46 grade instead of 32, (I use in fall mostly, not in winter) but if the mfr says 32 stay there. I would not use 68 at least here in MN.

    The are really simple circuits and durable and don't get many hours, so about anything works. If you have good filtration, tank breather, and keep moisture out of the breather area, the machine will outlast you.

    kcj
     
  4. smokinj

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    If it calls for 10w30 thats what I would use...btw I have two of them honda motors never an isssue with either Great motor.
     
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  5. Backwoods Savage

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    I generally go by the mfg recommendations like Jay does but I doubt using 5-30 would do any harm at all. I would not be afraid of doing it. Hydraulic oil, again no problem using from different companies.
     
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  6. hump

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    the hydro will be fine, but for the engine i would use rotella or delo 10-30, mobil one though good oil is on the thin side of a 30 weight and it may be consumed faster. it woud prolly be fine for winter use in freezing temps but for the warmer months i would use a good 10-30 such as the 2 i mentioned. good luck
     
  7. Highbeam

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    I'm also very concerned about your "truck" that takes 3.5 quarts of oil. For reference, the oil filter in my pickup takes 2 quarts to fill. What is this, some sort of kia?

    I too love mobile 1 synthetics. Partially because of the price but I am amazed at the detergent abilities. You can also buy 10-30 mobile 1 for this machine but the difference between 5-30 and 10-30 is minuscule.
     
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  8. thinkxingu

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    Highbeam, 2K2 Nissan Frontier SC: VG33E/VG33ER: With oil filter 3-1/2 qt, without oil filter 3-1/8 qt!

    The oil that came with the engine, presumably 10W30 (since that's what the sticker on it recommends), seems thinner than the Mobil 5W30.
     
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  9. Elderthewelder

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    I have the same truck (non S/C), Took me awhile to get used to only putting 3.5qts of oil in it when I do a oil change, one would not think that is the correct amount, but it is

    Where do you get the 5qt of Mobil 1 for $20? That is synthetic correct
     
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  10. thinkxingu

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    Hindsight being 20/20, I'd have bought the normally aspirated version--these things have terrible issues with knock sensors, which retard the timing when a knock is detected. Unfortunately, they installed the sensors inside the manifold where heat and vibration lend to 'false' knocks and broken sensors. Oh, and it's like $1k to replace them. Luckily, I was able to relocate mine.

    In any case, Walmart sells Mobil 1 5W30 in the 5 quart jugs for $20.99 near me.

    S
     
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  11. mayhem

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    Local wally world sells M1 for $23 for the 5qt jug. Thoguht I got a once in a while deal at the local parts store when I found 5 qt jugs of M1 for $22...found out later that the parts store sells 4 quart jugs, not 5.

    30 weight oils all should have the same viscosity and ability to protect your engine. The 10W and 5W ratings are the oil's viscosity at cold temps, lower number means the oil is thinner at cold start, especially important in the winter to get the oil moving more quickly. So basically other than the M1 synthetic going longer between changes, all its really going to do is make it easier for you to yank on the starter cord when its cold. You should feel 100% confident in using the same oil in your splitter as your truck.

    FWIW I use M1 5w-30 in my truck...takes 6 quarts with filter change in my 6 liter. Wife's Audi 3.0 6 cylinder takes 6.4 quarts of 0w-40 with filter change. I don't think I've ever owned a car that took less than 5 quarts of oil.
     
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  12. Highbeam

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    Yes, walmart has a cheap selection of mobile full synthetic oil in several weights. I use the 15-50 for motorcycles. Amazing detergent properties. When I switched from castrol to M1 on a 60,000 mile 98 chevy 5.7 liter engine the first couple of oil changes were black like used diesel oil due to wash out. Then it got cleaner. Amazing that oil can do that.

    I buy all of my oil from walmart and filters from Napa.
     
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  13. Elderthewelder

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    The N/A versions have the same problem, got mine fixed under warranty back in 04, now have the problem again, funny think is it does not trip the check engine light, but if you hook a obdII scanner up to it it shows a knock sensor code,

    You care to share how you relocated yours?

    About the oil, I try to stay away fRom Wallmarts, I just don't like them, the few times I have been in one it was always a cluster f@#k
     
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