20% Moisture Wood

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Huntindog1

Minister of Fire
Dec 6, 2011
1,879
South Central Indiana
I have gotten into some wood thats not burning very good.

I split a piece and tested it, its 20%.

My moisture meter has a chart and 20% moisture is considered high on that chart.

I guess 20% will burn but isnt ideal.
 
Hmmm..My understanding is that anything between 18-22% is perfect.

Perhaps something has changed in the burning setup and it has affected your draft?? What temps are you getting on the stack or the stove top? When did you sweep last? Outdoor temps? What kind of wood? How long has it been c/s/s?

Andrew
 
Well your right there has been warm weather. I fixed the issue with some small split kindling to heat the stove up hot and fast. But usually I can just put wood on hot coals and it takes off.
 
May have been lacking some draft....

When you split the wood and tested the MC, was it in the middle (and not on the ends...it would defeat the pourpose of splitting!)?
 
yep in the middle.
 
Did you sweep lately? I think it must be a draft issue....either not a big enough temperature difference between outside and inside or something has reduced the draft (buildup of creosote??)

Andrew
 
Not sure what that chart refers to but firewood at 20% should burn pretty darn good, under 20 is better but everything I've burned at 20-22 burns fine.
 
I concur...acordingvto my harbor freight m.m... 20% is ok....still have to leave the door ajar a bit to get it caught well...but still burns damn well.n.I was mess in around with the heritage the other nite it was 40 degrees out had the heritage to 580..lol..with wood between 15% and 20%
 
I've had that problem with mild temperatures too. As soon as a cold night comes along again then its fine. I simply shut it down when its warmer. I figure its not worth any creosote buildup and the heat pump works fine.
 
20% wood burns like crap for me. Anything over 16% burns bad.

That said 20%will burn....... Just not good.
 
Not sure what that chart refers to but firewood at 20% should burn pretty darn good, under 20 is better but everything I've burned at 20-22 burns fine.

Just a guess, but his meter may be intended for measuring building materials, such as drywall and/or dimensional lumber. I've seen them used in the trades with about that scale.
 
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90% of my wood is around 20% +/ - 2%. Getting wood consistently below 20% for me would be very difficult. I season everything except oak in single rows off the ground for two years. Oak goes three. IMO 20% wood is primo. 25% is not.
 
Well your right there has been warm weather. I fixed the issue with some small split kindling to heat the stove up hot and fast. But usually I can just put wood on hot coals and it takes off.

My Jotul is a lot less fun to operate when temps are above freezing and the humidity is high. Temps dropped today and I was back to adding a log, closing the door, and watching it take off.
 
I don't get it..I can never burn just one log unless I have a HOT bed of coals and the stove top temp is around 500 or so..I always need 1-2 little splits and a bigger piece on top.
 
I have gotten into some wood thats not burning very good.

I split a piece and tested it, its 20%.

My moisture meter has a chart and 20% moisture is considered high on that chart.

I guess 20% will burn but isnt ideal.


SARCASM ALERT


Whaaaaaaaaat???????

You mean your MM is not a reliable reference for when your wood is ready to burn?


SARCASM OVER


Sorry about that. But on the level, go ahead toss that MM in the garbage. They cause way more heart burn and consternation than any benefit you might get from it's unmoored readings.
 
Definitely ignore whatever the man in blue has to say, he shouldn't be considered except as contrarian/comic relief. MMs are only slightly more reliable.

Read and reread the manual for the MM. The one I got from my dad has a table of coefficients for each type of wood measured. How that sh... stuff got figured out, I don't know, but there must be some science there. I lost it. If the wood has been CSS for a year or more, look for another problem with your system. I find it easy to blame the wood, but checking the calendar I realize it is time to get up on the roof and: remove leaves or other obstructions; clean the flue, clean the stove pipe, the gaskets have lost elasticity or gone off center and air is leaking.

I prefer to have a place indoors for a couple of weeks worth of wood. Even with an average temp of 40 deg downstairs, a week in the basement gets surface moisture or snow eliminated as a variable. One to two days next to the stove makes for quick lighting and prime long burns for red maple, poplar, birch, red oak, locust, etc. This is the standard I strive for. So look for other sources that might be causing problems. If all is tight, then it may well be the wood. Just don't jump to conclusions.
 
But on the level, go ahead toss that MM in the garbage. They cause way more heart burn and consternation than any benefit you might get from it's unmoored readings.

Which moisture meter that you own is this observation based on Redd?
 
Answer the question.
 
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So you have no moisture meter and no experience with one. You are cordially invited not to give advice about them until you do.
 
So you have no moisture meter and no experience with one. You are cordially invited not to give advice about them until you do.

By all means; let no one interrupt the "all signs point to wet wood but my MM says otherwise, what should I do?" party.

I do apologize.

Stay classy.
 
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