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Posted By rdust,
Oct 29, 2012 at 9:38 PM
I guess I should have looked here for firebox size info. Sounds like 16" max is the way to go?
If double wall creates more draft during the slow burn I"m glad I have single coming off the stove..plus I know I get more heat from it.
Stove was too hot to put a tape in it but I found a post I made before about the firebox.
"The stove only has bricks on the lower layer so the bottom is smaller than above the bricks. The lower layer has 18 inches n/s, 21 inches e/w and height up to the cat enclosure is right around 12 1/2 inches. Once you get above the bricks you gain about another 2 inches n/s and a little e/w but the sides angle in some above the bricks as they come up, you also have another inch or so on height on the sides of the cat enclosure if you want to get crazy filling all the spaces. You can't fit 18 inch pieces n/s in the first layer due to the tabs that hold the top of the bricks but 17 inches works fine for me."
So, if I cut everything to 18", I'd be OK? If they didn't fit NS on the bottom layer, would I be all right just doing the first layer EW to get over the bricks then go NS?
I've actually tried E/W a few times because it doesn't burn as well and combats the excessive draft. I love how it burns straight front-to-back instead of middle-to-sides like N/S does, but it's a pain to load E/W and I tend to burn myself. N/S is the way to go.
With ash and coals in the bottom, my first layer of splits sits so high that 18" is not a problem. But if I were cutting a bunch of wood I'd aim for 16-17".
Id cut everythig just under 18", I cut mine 17" and works perfect, with 17" splits your going to fill the box up pretty good for a good burn.
Looks like 17" is the best a.
rdust- After 14 hrs i have a good ammount of coals i have to break up at the back of the stove. I rake the ashes to the back and the coals to the front so i have a flat bed to load on.
phatline- I think we are both cursed with these darn 7" pipes in the house! Your stove is burning exactly the same as mine, glad to hear im not alone with this issue. My damper has arrived, Monday im looking to install it as well as a chimney sweep and Cat cleaning. Also gonna check the door, ashplug and bypass plate for leaks.
Any suggestions on cleaning and checking the Cat fellas?? Like should i pull it or...? And whats the consensous on pipe joints leaking, do leaking joints contribute to poor performance and how do check them? Thanks
I haven't needed to pull the cat yet. If you pull it you need a new gasket and you run the risk of damaging it. Mine has only ever had fly ash on it, I run a soft vacuum brush over it to clean it.
On my pipe I'm usually able to see where they're leaking, if I look at them before running a brush through it. For mine I see spots where there is no build up around the spot leaking in the seam.
As long as you're ok with the first layer going e/w 18 will work. I very rarely cut consistent enough for it to matter. I can usually find enough shorties in the stack for my first layer.
Starting to wonder if what you call 7" single wall is actually class A chimney. You say it penetrates the roof and of course that would not be safe or legal if it was anything except class A pipe which is 7" or so diameter for 6" stuff. Is the 7" stuff you speak of silver? Does it go through the loft floor and then up to the roof?
It is Selkirk brand doubble wall insulated chimney measuring 7" dia inside. Was made right here in Ontario back in 1980 when it was installed. Everyone i talk to around home has 7" Selkirk chimney pipe. My old stove was a 7," even my Dads old Olsen Duomatic wood furnace used 7" Selkirk. Dont know why its soo uncommon to people. I honestly dont know anyone with 6" or 8", we all have 7."
Yep it goes from the basement ceiling, up thru upstairs bedroom closet, then the attic and out the roof. Right in the middle of the house. 3 ft down from the peak and rises 3 up, maybe 4feet high.
Im not sure what phatline has or if it is the same pipe/configuration. But his problems are mimicing mine exactly.
I just tried to adjust the door catch on my princess insert and I cannot get it to tighten the door up. It's almost like there is a nut on the back side that is loose and needs to be tightened for the front nut to check down on it. I did read the manual. Does anyone have any ideas?
its a pain, did you back off the nut on the latch? Once you do you just turn the latch till its tight, may need a big pair of plyers, if it doesnt line up, turn the nut one turn and try again
There mostly likely is, mine has a welded nut in the stove, I believe the newer ones nut isn't welded in the stove.(easier to fix after you break the latch) You will have to hold the one in the stove while you tighten the one on the outside or vice versa.
Ahh, I loosened the outer nut and turned the latch as per the manual and nothing, it just keeps spinning and never get tighter. Do you have to take off the right panel to get to the nut?
"If" the insert is like the freestanding the inside nut should be accessed in the firebox.
I dont have another nut, the plate steel is threaded. I just turn the latch until its tight, if it doesnt line up you play around with the nut. There does seem to be some metal welded on, Im wondering of yours broke off, I know taking the nut off can be hard.
Did you then try to tighten the nut?
My stove cooled down enough for me to check inside, that hunk of metal appears to be a nut welded on, or something resembling a nut, Im thinking yours fell off, you can probably fix it by getting another nut and using two to hold the latch on. Maybe get it welded in the spring, check inside your firebox, if it fell off its probably in there somewhere. Let us know how you made out.
I think I remember reading the newer stoves inside nut is no longer welded due to issues getting the broken piece of the latch out if it should it break. If it breaks with out it being welded the nut just falls in the stove, no big deal to replace.
Is yours an unwelded nut? What year is your stove, I bought mine in 08 or 09.
i have a problem with my fans:
just purchased them last week as i couldnt afford them at the time i bought the stove. they have been shutting off when they shouldnt. last night when i loaded the stove they were going on low. go back to check load, stove top at 500* and fans were off. when i checked 20 minuted they were back on. when i went to bed a hour after that they were back off. stove top still at 500. when i got up this morning stove top was at 350 and fans were not going.
the fans really made a big diffrance in moving the heat in my situation. plus they are very expensive! am i doing somthing wrong? somthing i can check? to get them back off i have to move the stove out. not looking forward to that!
Make sure the snap disc is up against the back of the stove. Might have to shim it or something.
My sister's fans cycle on and off a lot. Next time I'm there and the stove is fairly cool, I'm going to bypass the disc. Then she can just turn them on and off with the knob. It doesn't really seem necessary to me. It shuts the fans off when the stove goes cold, but at that point you probably won't be using them anyway.
Mine is welded my stove was built in 06, I "believe" Todd and Highbeam have posted theirs were not welded.